Coyote 3 Oil Catch Can

[Fly2High]

Sorry, my response was aimed at @Fly2High as I got the impression he read your info that you needed torque wrench etc to drain the can

WD

Ford recommends removal in order to drain the catch can but I have seen some open it and use a turkey baster. With where it is mounted, not as easy as several others with unscrew bottoms or drain valves.

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[WD Pro]

I think we’re talking about the same thing but with crossed wires ... lol

To be clear :

Initial fitment takes about 15 mins and requires a torque wrench to do it correctly.

After that, you only need your hands to remove, empty and refit it.

You can take the top of it if you wish to clean / dry it out - that requires a torque wrench to put the lid back on correctly.

WD

 

[RasJeremy]

My question based on so little fluid is it that either you have a good engine or a poor performing catch can. Could you photograph the outlet pipe just after the can? If you see moisture/oil there, you know your can is not that good. I have seen testing where they put can in series and often the second can caught stuff after some cans.

After reading your comment I couldn't think of anything else than I had to check that tube, haha! With my luck it had to be the catch can that was garbage...
However!!! - This it the picture of the outlet tube. And I wiped the pinky in there and it was dry

 

[Elp_jc]

Ford Performance has 2 different catch cans for the Coyote, depending on year. For 2018+ it's a different one (just 1 letter different in the p/n). The old one has the 2 push-pins, which makes it super easy to install. The newer one has a long strap that needs to be bolted in with an existing bolt, so apparently not a big deal. However, the capacity is tiny, even when it looks deep... and that's because the hose is quite low, so basically the fluid limit is BELOW the bottom of that lower hose, so about 1.5-oz, if I'm not mistaken. I might buy one even if it's not really needed, just because whatever amount it catches, it's better in the can than the intake.

 

[WD Pro]

If it helps, here’s the 2018+ bracket that the can sits on :

And here’s one stripped :

WD

 

[Fastfwd]

I think we’re talking about the same thing but with crossed wires ... lol

To be clear :

Initial fitment takes about 15 mins and requires a torque wrench to do it correctly.

After that, you only need your hands to remove, empty and refit it.

You can take the top of it if you wish to clean / dry it out - that requires a torque wrench to put the lid back on correctly.

WD

I apologize if I wasn't being clear. Thank you for summarizing to clarify.

However, you'll need a 10mm socket to remove the engine cover just to get wiggle room to empty the Ford Performance can if you just want to unplug it and dump it out through the inlet. Right? Or will it wiggle out without loosening the cover?

If you remove the top off it then it does require tools and there are torque specs provided for refitting it. If you observe them or not is up to you.

I didn't realize the engine cover has to be lifted to empty it myself before I bought it. That's sort of a pia. Not a deal breaker probably, but people should know that's what you are looking at.

 

[WD Pro]

Yeah lifting or removing the cover would be needed to slip it of the bracket - maybe it would be possible without fully removing it (the engineer cover) ? I guess I will find that out soon ...

WD

 

[Fastfwd]

I think we’re talking about the same thing but with crossed wires ... lol

To be clear :

Initial fitment takes about 15 mins and requires a torque wrench to do it correctly.

After that, you only need your hands to remove, empty and refit it.

You can take the top of it if you wish to clean / dry it out - that requires a torque wrench to put the lid back on correctly.

WD

I apologize if I wasn't being clear. Thank you for summarizing to clarify.

However, you'll need a 10mm socket to remove the engine cover just to get wiggle room to empty the Ford Performance can if you just want to unplug it and dump it out through the inlet. Right? Or will it wiggle out without loosening the cover?

If you remove the top off it then it does require tools and there are torque specs provided for refitting it. If you observe them or not is up to you

I didn't realize the engine cover has to be lifted to empty it myself before I bought it. That's sort of a pia. Not a deal breaker probably, but people should know that's what you are looking at.

Yeah lifting or removing the cover would be needed to slip it of the bracket - maybe it would be possible without fully removing it (the engineer cover) ? I guess I will find that out soon ...

WD

Me too. Removing the tower strut brace just to dump the oil seperator every time you have to do it would be ridiculous. No way they would design it that way, huh? Let's hope not. I definitely removed it all to have plenty of room to install the bracket without scuffing up the engine cover.

 

[Elp_jc]

If it helps, here’s the 2018+ bracket that the can sits on

Oh man, that's overkill. The lower bolt would have been enough, no? But at least that bracket will never move attached to 2 points. Just wish the nut on top of the visible bracket was prettier. Ha ha. I might look for a black closed nut, and cut the top of the bolt if necessary.

Hey Wade, what's the part number for that FP can? That's the one I need for my Bullitt. So to remove the thing after disconnecting the hoses, it just lifts off like that? That's nice. I think it holds like 1.5 ounces below the bottom of the hose, right? But it should be enough for somebody like me, who doesn't run the engine hard most of the time.

 

[ice445]

I think the UPR can is the best because of all the options they let you buy. I asked them to explain all the options to me and it's amazing how much you can configure it to your needs.

 

[WD Pro]

@Elp_jc

Part number M-6766-A50A

Acording to the instructions it fits both GT and Bullitt.

On the GT that bolt is covered by the engine cover (if you leave it on), not sure about the Bullitt.

If your worried about looks, just get a bolt cap like this one I got for the bulkhead :

It matches the type they use on the top of the struts from the factory

WD

 

[CEHollier]

I really like my Bob's catch can. It has a pet cock valve on the bottom for easy draining. My Coyote is tuned to 7,800 rpm and I drive up to that point. It works.

 

[Fly2High]

I have been doing some searching. There was a point where Bob's bracket would not fit in certain s550 Mustangs. The bracket was too short or something

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/always-check-fitment-a-catch-can-saga.86097/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bobs-catch-can-hose-cutting.83748/

Not sure of they fixed the bracket or what was needed to rectify the problem.

 

[CEHollier]

I have been doing some searching. There was a point where Bob's bracket would not fit in certain s550 Mustangs. The bracket was too short or something

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/always-check-fitment-a-catch-can-saga.86097/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bobs-catch-can-hose-cutting.83748/

Not sure of they fixed the bracket or what was needed to rectify the problem.

Not sure. Fits perfect in my 15.

 

[Vlad Soare]

Thanks, I've ordered a Ford Performance one.

The Ford Performance wasn't in stock at the time, so I cancelled the order and got a Mishimoto instead. And I'm glad I did. It looks awesome, you can feel the quality, I really like it. It was very easy to install, and it can be emptied easily - all it takes is the removal of the radiator cover.

And this is what I found inside after one thousand kilometers:

Five milliliters, measured with a syringe.

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