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K4fxd
Well-Known Member
You would think MMR would have put temp probes on the heads before and after the mod, also they should have tested with a flow meter. Then published the results.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Finished installing the cooling mod today (well, as much as I could anyway), until I encountered a minor issue. The hose that came with my kit is too short by several inches, so I was unable to connect it between the two stand-offs (aluminum pieces that go into the heads). I’ll have to see if I can order some online from Amazon and if not, reach out to MMR.
Install notes:
- Purchased a tube of Permatex Water Pump & Thermostat Housing gasket maker, which I put around the O-rings on both stand-offs before inserting them into each head.
- Passenger side stand-off went in easily with just a light push.
- Driver’s side was very stubborn and had to be tapped in using the rubber coated handle of a carpenter’s hammer and a a 5 Lb hammer, so as to not leave any marks on it.
- Installed driver’s side retention screw and torqued to 89 in-lbs; torqued passenger side retention bolt (large bolt) to 20 ft-lbs.
- Discovered hose was too short by approximately 6”.
Install notes:
- Purchased a tube of Permatex Water Pump & Thermostat Housing gasket maker, which I put around the O-rings on both stand-offs before inserting them into each head.
- Passenger side stand-off went in easily with just a light push.
- Driver’s side was very stubborn and had to be tapped in using the rubber coated handle of a carpenter’s hammer and a a 5 Lb hammer, so as to not leave any marks on it.
- Installed driver’s side retention screw and torqued to 89 in-lbs; torqued passenger side retention bolt (large bolt) to 20 ft-lbs.
- Discovered hose was too short by approximately 6”.
mech94
Well-Known Member
how's the clearance between the fitting and the crankshaft sensor connector on mine I could not plug it in with the fitting in placeFinished installing the cooling mod today (well, as much as I could anyway), until I encountered a minor issue. The hose that came with my kit is too short by several inches, so I was unable to connect it between the two stand-offs (aluminum pieces that go into the heads). I’ll have to see if I can order some online from Amazon and if not, reach out to MMR.
Install notes:
- Purchased a tube of Permatex Water Pump & Thermostat Housing gasket maker, which I put around the O-rings on both stand-offs before inserting them into each head.
- Passenger side stand-off went in easily with just a light push.
- Driver’s side was very stubborn and had to be tapped in using the rubber coated handle of a carpenter’s hammer and a a 5 Lb hammer, so as to not leave any marks on it.
- Installed driver’s side retention screw and torqued to 89 in-lbs; torqued passenger side retention bolt (large bolt) to 20 ft-lbs.
- Discovered hose was too short by approximately 6”.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Yup, same here. A bad sensor = A bad day. I see no way to clean all the Permatex out of the bore without pulling the tranny. I would need the same type of access I have to it now.
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NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
MMR came through and sent me a long hose and I was able to get complete the install.
I’d like to point something out that I believe is very important. There‘s a trim ring above the B-nuts on the ends of the -AN push-on hose fittings. These rings cover up the ends of the hose for a nice clean look. I discovered that the trim rings rattle (a lot) and could potentially cause false knock and pull timing. To fix this, I put a 1” piece of heat shrink over each trim ring and that took care of the rattle. Just an FYI to anyone installing these, as it would be a tough time to go back and try and correct it after the tranny is back in and everything is buttoned up. If you focus on both ends of the hose, you will see the heat shrink in this pic.
I’d like to point something out that I believe is very important. There‘s a trim ring above the B-nuts on the ends of the -AN push-on hose fittings. These rings cover up the ends of the hose for a nice clean look. I discovered that the trim rings rattle (a lot) and could potentially cause false knock and pull timing. To fix this, I put a 1” piece of heat shrink over each trim ring and that took care of the rattle. Just an FYI to anyone installing these, as it would be a tough time to go back and try and correct it after the tranny is back in and everything is buttoned up. If you focus on both ends of the hose, you will see the heat shrink in this pic.
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VoodooIdo
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Thanks for this input , I think mine are rattling.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
The easiest way to reach them now would be to remove the intake manifold. You would only need to disconnect the driver’s side B-nut, slide two pieces of heat shrink over the hose (one for the passenger side and the other for the driver’s side). In your case, I would suggest making the pieces long enough to cover the B-nuts, just to make sure you fully capture the trim rings. If you can’t get a heat gun back there, the engine heat will shrink them in no time.
Another fix (but likely a messy one) would be to spread RTV sealer around the trim ring where it meets the hose. You shouldn’t need to go all the way around the circumference of the ring and hose, but do what you can reach.
VoodooIdo
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- Joined
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I was thinking about trying to remove them with side cutters. If I remember correctly they are plastic.
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Angrey
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The permatex isn't necessary (belt/suspenders) but can't hurt.
The biggest leak threat is from the threads of the fittings. I'm not a fan of teflon tape (which can be prone to breaking off and ending up in whatever system you're using it on) but mine was leaking and I had to take off the hose/fittings and reinstall them with copious amounts of teflon tape. Was a joy doing contortionist moves under and over the car to do it. Highly suggest teflon taping threads before tightening down.
As far as the crank sensor, it's true. But how many times has anyone needed to replace their crank trigger sensor? Is this really a common problem or are we just identifying challenges to obscure problems that don't exist?
The biggest leak threat is from the threads of the fittings. I'm not a fan of teflon tape (which can be prone to breaking off and ending up in whatever system you're using it on) but mine was leaking and I had to take off the hose/fittings and reinstall them with copious amounts of teflon tape. Was a joy doing contortionist moves under and over the car to do it. Highly suggest teflon taping threads before tightening down.
As far as the crank sensor, it's true. But how many times has anyone needed to replace their crank trigger sensor? Is this really a common problem or are we just identifying challenges to obscure problems that don't exist?
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
I used Permatex because an MMR tech told me that it was necessary if the bores were scratched during removal of the freeze plugs (which mine were). I probably wouldn’t have if I had gotten the freeze plugs out without causing a couple of knicks in the bores.
@Angrey, did your passenger side push in by hand with moderate pressure? My driver’s side was angry as hell and seemed like it had arms and legs spread out across the hole to prevent going into the bore, lol.
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