Cheapest Performance Pack Brake Kit?

[PaddyPrix]

No such thing as a PP Rear Caliper, unless you like base stock brakes. Only ones who get love are the GT350 and GT500, but being honest, you can stop pretty fast and hard with just that front brake, since 90ish% of your braking comes from it.

Sponsored

 

[tdstuart]

You can get a full Brembo 6 piston front brake kit from Shelby America on eBay. I got my set for under 5 bills with shipping. They are new take offs and bolt right up.

Ya, I've seen someone (maybe you) post that they got theirs from Shelby America but I have yet to see another set go on sale.

 

[shogun32]

Ya, I've seen someone (maybe you) post that they got theirs from Shelby America but I have yet to see another set go on sale.

I've been watching their ebay listings for a while and the calipers have severely dried up. Used to be (2021 and before) they'd have 4-5 of them up almost continuously. I think their business has takes a severe dive.

The RockAuto listing claims re-manufactured. The CarID one is silent on that detail but priced the same. I would guess similar status. In any event $400-600 is the price range and throw another Benjamin on the fire to get a G2 paint kit in any interesting color you like.

red: KR3Z-2B121-A, KR3Z-2B120-A <$263, BRCF432,3
black: FR3Z-2B121-G? FR3Z-2B120-F <$288, BRCF430,1
orange: MR3Z-2B121-B, MR3Z-2B120-B <$332

 

[NeverSatisfied]

you need the brake master cylinder off a PP car as well.

 

[shogun32]

you need the brake master cylinder off a PP car as well.

No you DO NOT! That old saw was debunked years ago.

Only if you have the eco with the 2 pots should this even cross your mind. And even that is highly suspect

 

[br_an]

Things I would not go the "cheap" route for include: wheels, tires, brakes, suspension.

Don't cheap out on the parts that stop your car, or connect it to the road.


I realize "cheap" is a relative term in this scenario

 

[EFI]

you need the brake master cylinder off a PP car as well.

You don't *need* it, but it might be marginally more beneficial to do so.

Been running the GT350 brakes on a base GT master on track and there are no issues. Now I'm no pro, so for me and others it's fine. If you're trying to set lap records it's probably not a bad idea but then the PP brakes might not be the best choice for your skill level.

 

[PaddyPrix]

You don't *need* it, but it might be marginally more beneficial to do so.

Been running the GT350 brakes on a base GT master on track and there are no issues. Now I'm no pro, so for me and others it's fine. If you're trying to set lap records it's probably not a bad idea but then the PP brakes might not be the best choice for your skill level.

If you track your car, I very highly recommend it. There are 4 master cylinders for the s550 Mustang last I looked, parts A through D.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/the-albuquerque-stripper.16040/page-12#post-256750

The performance pack has two of them, one for auto, one for manual. The base has two, manual and auto. (Difference of number of nipples, hydraulic clutch taps in.). The GT350 shares the base edition MC.

They also have multiple brake boosters and I couldn't control my car at track speeds without the pair. Perhaps my tracks are faster, perhaps I drive faster, but it was scary unsafe for me. If you're auto x, chances are you'll be fine, same if you do some spirited driving.

 

[EFI]

The GT350 shares the base edition MC.

They also have multiple brake boosters and I couldn't control my car at track speeds without the pair. Perhaps my tracks are faster, perhaps I drive faster, but it was scary unsafe for me. If you're auto x, chances are you'll be fine, same if you do some spirited driving.

So if the GT350 shares the base GT MC, then that's probably why mine are ok vs. if I ran PP brakes.

What do you mean by "couldn't control"? I know a few people that have the base MC with PP brakes and by no means do they describe the braking as out of control. It takes slightly longer pedal travel to get the same "bite" as a PP car (which could also be the pads themselves) but it no way do they have trouble braking even from high speeds and multiple times in succession.

For example one of our local track Thompson Speedway in CT (which you're probably not familiar with being from the west coast) has a very long straightaway and lots of short straights. On the straightaway you're going from 140+ down to 35-40 prior to the first corner, which is a healthy braking zone. Then from turn 3 to 7 consists of short straights then hard braking again from 90 to 30. The braking isn't as hard and long, but there are multiple of those instances in a short period of time so the brakes have very little time to cool down before needing to use them again.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

So if the GT350 shares the base GT MC, then that's probably why mine are ok vs. if I ran PP brakes.

What do you mean by "couldn't control"? I know a few people that have the base MC with PP brakes and by no means do they describe the braking as out of control. It takes slightly longer pedal travel to get the same "bite" as a PP car (which could also be the pads themselves) but it no way do they have trouble braking even from high speeds and multiple times in succession.

For example one of our local track Thompson Speedway in CT (which you're probably not familiar with being from the west coast) has a very long straightaway and lots of short straights. On the straightaway you're going from 140+ down to 35-40 prior to the first corner, which is a healthy braking zone. Then from turn 3 to 7 consists of short straights then hard braking again from 90 to 30. The braking isn't as hard and long, but there are multiple of those instances in a short period of time so the brakes have very little time to cool down before needing to use them again.

I’m running the base booster on an auto PP master with PP1 brembos on my base GT 6MT. It works, but something is off. Its like it just doesn’t provide consistent boost pressure at the limit.

It’s more noticeable when I’m pounding on it at the track.

I would highly recommend getting the PP1 Mc and booster While you have the brake system opened up. I tried to be cheap and it backfired.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

No you DO NOT! That old saw was debunked years ago.

Only if you have the eco with the 2 pots should this even cross your mind. And even that is highly suspect

Nope... you do on a '21 base GT. I'm even coming from the 4 piston base brakes with the properly vented rotors to the PP1 Brembos.

On the street it's tolerable at best, around the track in anger it's noticeably "off" even just swapping the MC and leaving the base booster is off enough that I'll eventually swap my booster to the correct matched booster.

 

[shogun32]

Nope... you do on a '21 base GT. I'm even coming from the 4 piston base brakes with the properly vented rotors to the PP1 Brembos.

On the street it's tolerable at best, around the track in anger it's noticeably "off" even just swapping the MC and leaving the base booster is off enough that I'll eventually swap my booster to the correct matched booster.

masters
EB ?
GT 27mm, 572mm
GT/PP 28mm, 615.7mm

calipers
2-pot 43x2, 2904mm^2
2904*2/572 = 10.15

4-pot 46x4, 6647
6647*2/572 = 23.2
6107*2/572 = 21.3

6-pot 36x6, 6107
6107*2/615.7 = 19.84

So either the stripper base Ecoboost has a different master piston diameter or it's booster is ~2x stronger than the ones found in GT cars. Unless I'm missing something in the math that's different between calcs for sliding-pin calipers vs floating.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

masters
EB ?
GT 27mm, 572mm
GT/PP 28mm, 615.7mm

calipers
2-pot 43x2, 2904mm^2
2904*2/572 = 10.15

4-pot 46x4, 6647
6647*2/572 = 23.2
6107*2/572 = 21.3

6-pot 36x6, 6107
6107*2/615.7 = 19.84

So either the stripper base Ecoboost has a different master piston diameter or it's booster is ~2x stronger than the ones found in GT cars. Unless I'm missing something in the math that's different between calcs for sliding-pin calipers vs floating.

Not sure what to tell you.

Having driven my past PP2 in anger many a lap and then trying to go cheap putting PP calipers on my Base GT 6MT, there's a notable difference in feel and consistency if you don't match them to the proper MC and Booster.

I'm even running the same Ford Rotors and GLoc R18 pads / Titanium shims off my previous PP2 car

Installing the correct MC got the pedal travel right.

I'm down to an inconsistent boost issue particularly during fast transitions from WOT to aggressive braking. It's more noticeable when left foot braking.

On the street, most would not notice.

 

[PaddyPrix]

So if the GT350 shares the base GT MC, then that's probably why mine are ok vs. if I ran PP brakes.

What do you mean by "couldn't control"? I know a few people that have the base MC with PP brakes and by no means do they describe the braking as out of control. It takes slightly longer pedal travel to get the same "bite" as a PP car (which could also be the pads themselves) but it no way do they have trouble braking even from high speeds and multiple times in succession.

For example one of our local track Thompson Speedway in CT (which you're probably not familiar with being from the west coast) has a very long straightaway and lots of short straights. On the straightaway you're going from 140+ down to 35-40 prior to the first corner, which is a healthy braking zone. Then from turn 3 to 7 consists of short straights then hard braking again from 90 to 30. The braking isn't as hard and long, but there are multiple of those instances in a short period of time so the brakes have very little time to cool down before needing to use them again.

Wha? 203 in the hizzy, used to street race Paul Newman on Post Road in front of the Sherwood Diner

I mean that I would be frantically double and triple pumping as if my life was on the line, because it honestly was. It'd sometimes grab on the 2nd, and I'd stay in it, overbraking and early apexing, and if it'd grab on the 3rd, I'd overshoot the turn, and likely go off or have the balance all over the place. As a result, I was scared to enter most turns at the proper turn-in spots or get over enough, because I'd need whatever space I could. I was running the best fluid and pads (G-LOC R18, Castrol SRF) that are rated well beyond the use, and changing just the MC and BB made it perform like the world class setup we've come to expect of it.

By no means am I qualified to say that you're wrong, I am simply sharing my experience. After switching the full setup, it was a night and day difference, and while it took a while to unlearn my bad habits, I started improving my consistency, and having the courage to take proper lines without fear of failure, my lap times improved dramatically to consistently put me on top of the grid, changing nothing more than the brakes.

In SoCal, we've got a brutal brake killer where you shed 75-100mph every 20-30 seconds in Auto Club Speedway. We've also got Willow Springs, which has the highest overall track average speed anywhere, where 100mph is routine. In that link I shared, I had the units side by side, and measured them, and in a post leading up or just after it, I had all the part numbers and broke it all down.

 

[Strokerswild]

The ONLY difference between the PP , bullitt and M1 brakes is the color of the calipers.

Correct. And the rear calipers are the same on everything without a snake badge.

I swapped my stock PP calipers to the red Bullitt units over the winter for a little more flash. I've been pondering selling the stockers, but the argument in my brain is to keep them with the rest of the stock take-offs in the shop attic. I guess I don't know what a pair of used PP front calipers (and the matching rears, for that matter) is worth, which might settle said argument....

Sponsored