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Car won't start

Cobra Jet

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David Schmidt

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Today I started snooping around the engine compartment to see if I could find any trace of gnawed wires. No luck there - I did take the silly plastic engine cover off as well (which required taking the strut tower brace too, brilliant).

Pump fuse is good, swapped out the fuel pump solenoid with the wiper, and the wipers still work, so that's not the problem. Then I started taking the back seat apart to look at the gas tank connections, lo and behold on the passenger/return(?) side, I see this:
IMG_6286.JPG


I don't think the wiring is harmed right here, as I pulled the connector off and looked around... I guess I can do a little continuity testing to look harder for connection problems.

But when I hit the power button on the car, I get kind of a dull thud out of the fuel pump side... is that what "priming" sounds like? Or should it have more of an electric motor running sound as it primes?
 
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David Schmidt

David Schmidt

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What if... the mice problem is spurious, and the real problem is the pump is just bad? Who knows when the mice visited. Maybe the pump just deciced to give up the ghost just now? Probably worth the $200 now before going to the dealer...
 

Cobra Jet

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Today I started snooping around the engine compartment to see if I could find any trace of gnawed wires. No luck there - I did take the silly plastic engine cover off as well (which required taking the strut tower brace too, brilliant).

Pump fuse is good, swapped out the fuel pump solenoid with the wiper, and the wipers still work, so that's not the problem. Then I started taking the back seat apart to look at the gas tank connections, lo and behold on the passenger/return(?) side, I see this:
IMG_6286.JPG


I don't think the wiring is harmed right here, as I pulled the connector off and looked around... I guess I can do a little continuity testing to look harder for connection problems.

But when I hit the power button on the car, I get kind of a dull thud out of the fuel pump side... is that what "priming" sounds like? Or should it have more of an electric motor running sound as it primes?
The fuel pump "thump" is normal and is the prime:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-“prime”-when-initially-opening-driver-door.106779/

Have you had the battery tested? Ford batteries are known to fail, even if not old.
 
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David Schmidt

David Schmidt

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Gotcha. It's only ever one "thump," and I can make it happen every time I cycle the power button.
Have you had the battery tested? Ford batteries are known to fail, even if not old.
I haven't - it was cranking good and strong as always, so I didn't (and don't) suspect that. I did manage to run it down with all my testing and start re-attempts, so much so that I put it on the tender to get it back up.
 
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David Schmidt

David Schmidt

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Alas, the fuel pump wasn't the problem. I swapped a new one in, and it gives me the same exact "thump" with the button and nothing else. When I popped the line off of it, I didn't get a flood of gas like I see in some pump replacement videos - which makes me think maybe it's not getting the signal to push as much as it should. Still need to get back there with a tester and see if it gets a pump signal when cranking.
 

Ninpop9

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Alas, the fuel pump wasn't the problem. I swapped a new one in, and it gives me the same exact "thump" with the button and nothing else. When I popped the line off of it, I didn't get a flood of gas like I see in some pump replacement videos - which makes me think maybe it's not getting the signal to push as much as it should. Still need to get back there with a tester and see if it gets a pump signal when cranking.
Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, re-connect, and crank the car see if it starts. Might seem crazy let me know what happens.
 
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David Schmidt

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Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, re-connect, and crank the car see if it starts. Might seem crazy let me know what happens.
I’m with ya. I actually removed the battery for a couple of hours and put it on the tender while I worked. Buttoned her all back up, absolutely no change.
 

Ninpop9

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Clutch down, Accelerator Fully Down, press the start button three times in 5 second intervals than try to start. Ideally if you have a fuel pressure gauge to hook up that would be nice as well.
 

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David Schmidt

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Clutch down, Accelerator Fully Down, press the start button three times in 5 second intervals than try to start. Ideally if you have a fuel pressure gauge to hook up that would be nice as well.
I'll try this sequence tomorrow - sounds like it would poke the fuel pump harder. I think a fuel pressure gauge would definitely tell the tale - need me one of those.
Also maybe take a look at this
Screenshot 2022-07-20 200815.png
That is absolutely my fear. Electronic module failure. That or wiring I can't see because I can't squeeze under the car to look. Time is running out - one week until my appointment. Innova 6100P OBDII scanner being droned in presently. Ordered the controller module (FR3A9D370AA, $25, ebay) as a hedge.
 
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David Schmidt

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Scanner arrived - reports no codes are stored. Next I'm trying to charge my battery again (this seems to be a problem) and will try the WOT start in the morning, and if that's unsuccessful, will take the battery in for a test.
 

kluke15

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my money on clutch switch on the back of the clutch pedal. sounds exactly like when mine went out.
 

Cobra Jet

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my money on clutch switch on the back of the clutch pedal. sounds exactly like when mine went out.
It could be that or the bumper pad is gone off of the clutch pedal or brake pedal.

Brake pedal and clutch pedal bumper pad recall:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-pedal-bumper-clutch-pedal-bumper-nhtsa-recall.172153/

The original thread BEFORE the recall even existed with more in depth DIY fix for both brake pedal and clutch pedal bumper pad fixes:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-light-switch-near-pedal-failure.122100/
 

Rod Schneider

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It could be that or the bumper pad is gone off of the clutch pedal or brake pedal.

Brake pedal and clutch pedal bumper pad recall:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-pedal-bumper-clutch-pedal-bumper-nhtsa-recall.172153/

The original thread BEFORE the recall even existed with more in depth DIY fix for both brake pedal and clutch pedal bumper pad fixes:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-light-switch-near-pedal-failure.122100/
Since the starter motor is working, I doubt it has anything to do with the brake and/or clutch switches. When the bumper pads fall off, the starter will not function at all....
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