Car is dead - Need help

[Tank]

Check out post # 17 in this thread. Apparently all three cables get disconnected at the same time..

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/fusible-link-for-alternator.123800/page-2


EDIT: The whole box doesn't need to be replaced.

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[WildHorse]

Apparently all three cables get disconnected at the same time

I can definitely see that fusible link popping if one using that as a boost point.

 

[JAJ]

I can definitely see that fusible link popping if one using that as a boost point.

OR - maybe the PSCM has failed with an internal short circuit and it'll blow the next 125A fuse just like the last one...

 

[Inthehighdesert]

Maybe I missed it. Did the op actually check continuity across that 125 main? Is it bad.

 

[WildHorse]

OR - maybe the PSCM has failed with an internal short circuit and it'll blow the next 125A fuse just like the last one...

He said it was fine before. He said his wife left the hazards on for 30 mins after which he needed a boost b/c the battery died. It would be easier to open the fuse box than to take the battery cover off to boost it in a pinch.

 

[The Chairman]

Its not going. I did the 8 hour reset thing, steering is still shot. At this point, I am 100% sure what the dealer said is accurate. I am trying to understand whether this 125amp fuse is a regular fuse that can be replaced or if its part of the entire fuse box and thats why the fusebox is replaced.

I spent some time in ford parts and could not find either the fuse box or this 125amp battery. If someone can help, I would really appreciate it.

Some good info followed my post. I’m on the road without access to my car or my manuals. So I can’t be more help until tomorrow. But as Tank stated, that power bar may have a fusable link or fuze in it that can be replaced. The other link he posted shows the potential part.

 

[UnhandledException]

I spoke to the service advisor and the part that was ordered is FU5Z 14526 A. Its $27 part and not the entire fusebox. Can i do this myself?

 

[WildHorse]

Can i do this myself?

Yes.

 

[Tank]

Can i do this myself?

You can lead a horse to water....

See my posts from yesterday in response to your request for information.

 

[UnhandledException]

You can lead a horse to water....

See my posts from yesterday in response to your request for information.

Thank you

 

[Tank]

Thank you

I hope that’s the fix for you!

Please let us know it turns out.

Thanks for posting that part number.

 

[TorqueMan]

If I could go to dealer, I wouldnt post here. The reason for not going isnt the car is modified or not under warranty, but this is my daily driver, this is Ford, and tomorrow is Friday. It will be middle of next week before they give me a loaner.

how will new battery help? The power steering error U0131 does not go away. Battery has enough power now it reads 14.4 volts

14.4 volts is the alternator output, not the battery. You test the battery without the engine running using a voltage meter. If all cells in the battery are good it will show around 12 - 12.5 volts. If it's less than that it's either depleted or defective.

If the battery won't start the car it needs to be replaced.

 

[Genxer]

A battery might read ok with a multimeter but it might act up under a load. My weak battery caused the taillights to act up and some of them not illuminate. Also, make sure you have a really clean and tight connection with the battery terminals. If there’s corrosion it can make a car act screwy. I thought my connections were good with the new battery, but they weren’t. The voltage reading jumped all over the place until I rechecked/retightened.

 

[mustang charlie]

My car left me stranded today where it would not start after leaving it parked on the side of the road with hazards on for about 30 min, I came to find out it would not start.

I hit start button, nothing no click. I get a neighbor to jump start, it starts and battery reads 13.7V then 14.4.

now all good right? Here comes the problem, it throws many errors during start when jump starting such as :

- No fuel pressure
- Not enough fuel
- No hill assist
- No stabilitrak
- No ABS
- No Powersteering

The fuel related ones disappear on their own but power steering/ABS/stabilitrak doesnt. I drove home with no power steering (was very hard). After restarting the car, disconnecting battery, connecting battery tender, still no go. The power steering doesnt work.

I went to autozone and got a code reader (the good stuff for $240) and it shows U0131 ABS code. I clear the code, it comes back immediately.

what should I do?

In 2018 my 2015 GT stang did the same thing , 3 year old battery played games with the electronics , changed out the battery all was fine.

 

[UnhandledException]

Update: Car is fixed. I did not do the fix myself but I come to an agreement with the dealer where they basically charged me 1 hr of labor for the initial diagnosis and fix and plus $14 for the parts. Still not as cheap as doing it myself but you have to be fair to people. They did the diagnosis and given that, I think 1 hour of labor for fixing it and diagnosing it is fair. $165 is what I paid.

Thanks everyone for your help.

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