Broken bolt. Now what? Part it out?

[Eric5.0]

Ok, where do I start? Does this bolt have a specific name? Cradle diff bolt or something else? Snapped in half. No idea if it will be stick in there, if I'll have to drill it out, etc. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

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[ColdShotxx]

You can try a bolt extract, but if it was me I say its one of those things you just take your medicine and limp it to a reputable auto machine shop and have them properly remove.

 

[CrazyHippie]

I'd at least soak it good in PB Blaster for 24 hours before attempting to remove it. It will probably come out with a bolt extractor, but drilling it straight (which is critical) may be tough where it's located without dropping the exhaust and maybe moving some suspension out of the way. I agree that a shop is probably a better approach - I would hate to try the job without a lift if you can't get at the bolt with a drill where it sits!

 

[MiamiGT350]

I would also recommend a shop given the limited access and location.

 

[Qcman17]

I like the part it out option OP mentioned in the title there is a shitload of good parts surrounding that broken bolt. Hope it works out ok op shit happens and we try to get past it.

 

[ajsfirehawk]

Agree with the PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or similar, for whoever does the work. I can't tell where the bolt is broken but I don't see it protruding through the diff. I don't see how you get at it properly without dropping the exhaust and rear end out. If that is beyond your skills/tools, take it to someone who can before you or someone else hoses it up further. IF and I reiterate if the bolt is sticking out a half inch or more once the diff is removed, you may be able to take a cutting wheel and square off the sides of the bolt so you can get a crescent wrench on it to extract it. Again, having the front and rear of the bolt soaked repeatedly for a day or three will improve the odds of your success. Nasty problem to be sure.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Here ya go:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/broken-diff-bolt.181685/

 

[WD Pro]

Welcome to the club …

A few comments from me - these are my opinion / feelings and YMMV :

• That bolt position will be nigh on impossible to drill into squarely - the subframe is going to have to come down.
• There won’t be any bolt left sticking out to grab hold of, it will have sheared on the threaded section right on the interface between bush and diff casing.
• The original bolts have a thread lock on them, you might get it out - if you are lucky …
• If you are unlucky (like me and another member) it won’t come out (as in my case at least) the two parts weren’t threaded correctly (we both broke rear bolts and needed new diff covers).
• If you drill it out, just don’t over heat it due to the rubber bush.
• If you drill it out, you might as well take it up to 16mm and use good quality M16 bolts (sized to load through the shank) to alleviate any future problems.

I feel for you, I was real pissed when mine went. I don’t use my car in winter and I lost three months of nice weather …

I did get mine fixed under warranty, but it still cost me in additional improvements whilst it was apart (Ford were really good about it and worked with me).

As we like to say in work - use it as an opportunity for improvement

WD

 

[stang17]

I just went through this in May and I already had the upgraded BMR rear diff bushings and 10.9 hardware.

Ended up swapping in steeda red bushings along with their 12.9 through bolt upgrade.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4051-s550-differential-bolt-upgrade-kit

Here is a useful video for steps in dropping the rear subframe. We did it on a lift with a table/cart underneath.

 

[Cobra Jet]

So aside from the "known", I just have to ask; isn't this a safety issue that these bolts just suddenly snap IF the car is not used in track environments?

 

[stang17]

So aside from the "known", I just have to ask; isn't this a safety issue that these bolts just suddenly snap IF the car is not used in track environments?

I was at track doing 2nd gear burnout, waited for tores to smoke a little, released line lock and started to pull forward, and felt a slight jolt when wheels hooked. No wheel hop. I proceeded to make a 136 mph pass and upon breaking car felt slightly different, as if there was some movement/flex in rear. Circled back around and track official wa waiving me down to let me know they found the bolt by water box.

I was able to make the ride home without any issues, but held off on driving the car anymore until able to put through bolts in.

 

[StangTime]

I like the part it out option OP mentioned in the title there is a shitload of good parts surrounding that broken bolt. Hope it works out ok op shit happens and we try to get past it.

Dibs on the broken bolt.

 

[StangTime]

There should have been a re-call for this shit. One of my bushings tore and on the other side, one bolt had a slight bend in it. I have not been hard on the car. Never did a line lock or burn out.

 

[J17GT]

Agree with the other posters, the rear subframe will need to come out to fix that properly. It’s really not that bad of a job. I drag race my car and while doing some upgrades this winter, decided to be proactive and upgrade all my hardware. I was surprised to find one of the diff bushing with a crack in it already with just a few dozen passes on the car.

I upgraded to the Kelltrac big bertha bolt kit. BEEFY!!!

 

[ice445]

There should have been a re-call for this shit. One of my bushings tore and on the other side, one bolt had a slight bend in it. I have not been hard on the car. Never did a line lock or burn out.

It's definitely the worst designed aspect of the car. If the '24's didn't fix this, I'm going to lose my shit, lmao.

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