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B&O 10" sub replacement guide

I Bleed Ford Blue

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Mike
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2023 grabber blue metallic Mach 1
I bought one for my 23, if I like how it turns out, I may also get one for my explorer ST as it also the B&O system, but I need to make sure it is the same size.
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Howie

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Just wanted to say thanks to @Gregs24 for the post and answering my messages, ARAMP1 for the link on the connectors and Ninjacoupe for the link for the grilles. Made the whole experience very good. I went a slightly different direction with my 2023 Mach 1. I purchased a used woofer w/enclosure and removed the stock unit to storage in case it ever needs to be "stock". A little more expensive that just doing the woofer. The connectors are PERFECT. Plug into the stock plugs and strip the other end for the sub. I wanted to leave the sub open, so the grills were a nice addition. Sounds much better that the stock sub. Thanks again !!!!

woofer 2 2024.jpg


woofer 2024.jpg
 

04mystichrome

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Completed but havent been able to drive the car to test it since Cleveland Ohio weather sucks. Got the pioneer sub new on eBay for 45 shipped and did the harness and polyfill for a total of 65$. Only broke 1 clip so glad I read all the posts on this thread or I would have broke them all for sure
 

Benjamin Hundred

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Hey guys, I’ve been stalking this forum for a while and have wanted to do a B&O sub swap for my 2018 Mustang, I’m planning to take the B&O sub box and install the JL Audio 10TW3-D4 alongside a JL Audio XD600/1v2 amplifier. The sub is rated up to a 400W RMS and the amp will put out 400W at 4ohms. I’ll be getting the 10TW3-D4 new but found the amp used for $200 (unless there’s any good reason to not go used).

Not sure if anyone has tried the 10TW3-D4 in the stock B&O box but if so I’d love some input on the experience and install, looks like it’ll fit just fine looking at the specs. I’m specifically using the B&O box because of the different trunk shape and limited space of the convertible.


As a quick note to anyone wondering about a 8” Shaker to 10” B&O swap it looks like it’s not a plug and play install. The Shaker appears to have the amp on the back of the sub while to my best knowledge the B&O is located elsewhere in the car (assuming upfront with the main audio processor) so even a splice into the harnesses won’t work. I’ve done lots of research on this and bought both harnesses even to splice into for custom work.
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