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B&O 10" sub replacement guide

Mat

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It’s 100 watts or around that. I’m just stating, for 100 bucks can grab a mrv-m500 (500 @ 2ohm) and toss that in there, it will be night day difference over 100 watts.

Edot
Wtf happened to amp prices? Mrv m500 I used to buy new all day for 80-100

now they are almost 200

damn stimulus greedy ass economy everyone’s jacking prices up on everything

Edit here’s best value out there at moment, 600 watts 2 ohm. I like alpine and jl amps
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I guess like everything else atm. All prices have hiked stupidly on lots of items :( Maybe once lockdowns are over and things get back to normal.

So do you have a recommended guide on running them in a Mustang?
What Gauge cable?
Must be like 20 years since I did that on a car :D
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m3incorp

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The stock amp will power the subwoofer and It WILL sound much better than the stock B&O subwoofer. You can use the stock wires at the plug. Using a dual coil vs single coil will determine which wires you use. A pic of the wires to use is posted in several of the threads.

TBH I dont really want to go down that road.
So with the stock cable, is it not capable of powering bigger amps?
 

FreePenguin

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The stock amp will power the subwoofer and It WILL sound much better than the stock B&O subwoofer. You can use the stock wires at the plug. Using a dual coil vs single coil will determine which wires you use. A pic of the wires to use is posted in several of the threads.
He’s correct

but itl sound better if you wasn’t against an aftermarket amp

in reality you can do it yourself in an hour. Drop powerwire into fender, pop it through the passenger firewall grommet run it along the carpet to back,pop it up under the plastic in quarter panel. Really cake.

the ground can be grounded on rear seat bolt. Not sure where you’d want to hide the amp. But your signal wires are already ran back there all you’re doing is putting power to it in rear and placing
 

FreePenguin

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My idea was based on my original theory of a 100 dollar amp, 50 bucks wiring harness.
150 bucks would of been an even bigger upgrade

stock < JL sub << JL sub + amp

since we’ll it’s like 5-6x power

I’d do the sub swap and if you wasn’t fully satisfied, adding amp is easy
 

Mat

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Interesting stuff, as I have only had the car for a few months now. Just going to do bits at a time, as I have other things I would like to do to it.
Ive now done the Air Gap in the seat, that made a nice change.

So going on the basis (For now) to keep the stock amp and these current UK prices.
Which speaker from this list would you go for? (With the possibility down the road sometime of me doing the amp change)

Pioneer TS-A250D4 - £55
JL Audio JL10W0V3-4 - £100
Rockford Fosgate P2D4 - £120
Rockford Fosgate P3SD4- £150
JL Audio JL10W1V3-4 - £200
 

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m3incorp

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Choosing from the list will mostly be personal preferences and if you seek a perfect fit or OK with something like not using the original trim ring.

I am an advocate of JL Audio when it comes to subwoofers; I would go with JL10W1v3-4 or JL10W0v3-4...but again, I am biased.


Interesting stuff, as I have only had the car for a few months now. Just going to do bits at a time, as I have other things I would like to do to it.
Ive now done the Air Gap in the seat, that made a nice change.

So going on the basis (For now) to keep the stock amp and these current UK prices.
Which speaker from this list would you go for? (With the possibility down the road sometime of me doing the amp change)

Pioneer TS-A250D4 - £55
JL Audio JL10W0V3-4 - £100
Rockford Fosgate P2D4 - £120
Rockford Fosgate P3SD4- £150
JL Audio JL10W1V3-4 - £200
 

FreePenguin

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How much air space difference requirement from w0-1 and 3?

I have a w3v3 and I am ecstatic with it. If there was near enough air space I’d consider it, albeit little more money.

do tw1 subwoofers fit in the bo box? A 10 inch tw3 could be great as they work on limited space
 

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Mat

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Looking up the
10TW3-D4
That's £250 here, I see it keeps creeping up lol

Do you think the stang sub box is probably limiting these JL speakers some what for it's size?
Would love to say I would get the stealth box but thats going way too far for the price.

As the prices seem to increase just a little bit at a time, its making it tough to know which one to go for.
If you rate JL, maybe the cheaper one from the list would be a good choice then!
 

m3incorp

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Yes, the stock enclosure is a limiting factor.

Looking up the
10TW3-D4
That's £250 here, I see it keeps creeping up lol

Do you think the stang sub box is probably limiting these JL speakers some what for it's size?
Would love to say I would get the stealth box but thats going way too far for the price.

As the prices seem to increase just a little bit at a time, its making it tough to know which one to go for.
If you rate JL, maybe the cheaper one from the list would be a good choice then!
 

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Mat

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Ok so Ive gone for the
JL Audio JL10W0V3-4

So do I just pick 1 of the 2 pairs to connect with and leave the other pair free or something else?
 

Matthewstorm

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Ok so Ive gone for the
JL Audio JL10W0V3-4

So do I just pick 1 of the 2 pairs to connect with and leave the other pair free or something else?
No. See post #316.
 

OF5.0

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Ok so Ive gone for the
JL Audio JL10W0V3-4

So do I just pick 1 of the 2 pairs to connect with and leave the other pair free or something else?
Another good choice of a single coil subwoofer is the Focal Flax P25 FSE. The sub works in enclosures as small as 0.35 cubic feet. It also has a shallow mounting depth.
 
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m3incorp

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You have to combine the two positive together and the two negative together.
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