B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[Matthewstorm]

Yup! Each of the pairs in this photo has one positive, one negative wire.

In the left pair, the black wire is negative, the green is positive. In the right pair, the purple is negative and the yellow is positive. Use one pair for each set of terminals on the Pioneer sub.

It may be less confusing to say the black and purple wires are negative, the green and yellow wires are positive

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[ChipG]

It may be less confusing to say the black and purple wires are negative, the green and yellow wires are positive

That's how it's phrased in post #1, so I tried a different phrasing for those for whom that didn't stick.

 

[Pero]

Exactly that has been pointed out in the very first post in this thread along with a picture of the wires

I know that.
But I asked ChipG with intention. He might have a different conclusion about polarity.
I have noticed on my Pioneer sub, once connected in B&O system as described in the very first post here, that cone is kicking inwards on bass pulse. Is it possible that we have wrong connection "diagram" and consequentially driving our subs out of phase?
When I exchange the wires, loudspeaker cone starts kicking outwards.
Does anyone else noticed this phenomena?

 

[Matthewstorm]

That's how it's phrased in post #1, so I tried a different phrasing for those for whom that didn't stick.

Gotcha. But the way you phrased it made my head hurt haha.

 

[m3incorp]

I'm interested in hearing the responses to this.

You are correct, if the cone goes inward on the base notes, this typically means the polarity is reversed.

I know that.
But I asked ChipG with intention. He might have a different conclusion about polarity.
I have noticed on my Pioneer sub, once connected in B&O system as described in the very first post here, that cone is kicking inwards on bass pulse. Is it possible that we have wrong connection "diagram" and consequentially driving our subs out of phase?
When I exchange the wires, loudspeaker cone starts kicking outwards.
Does anyone else noticed this phenomena?

 

[ChipG]

I know that.
But I asked ChipG with intention. He might have a different conclusion about polarity.
I have noticed on my Pioneer sub, once connected in B&O system as described in the very first post here, that cone is kicking inwards on bass pulse. Is it possible that we have wrong connection "diagram" and consequentially driving our subs out of phase?
When I exchange the wires, loudspeaker cone starts kicking outwards.
Does anyone else noticed this phenomena?

I haven't watched the speaker while on as I hadn't noticed anything that seemed amiss, but I'll try to remember to check it out this weekend.

 

[Pero]

I haven't watched the speaker while on as I hadn't noticed anything that seemed amiss, but I'll try to remember to check it out this weekend.

Please, do so and report back your findings.
Do you have a possibility to measure the signal polarity on each wire pair?

 

[Gregs24]

I know that.
But I asked ChipG with intention. He might have a different conclusion about polarity.
I have noticed on my Pioneer sub, once connected in B&O system as described in the very first post here, that cone is kicking inwards on bass pulse. Is it possible that we have wrong connection "diagram" and consequentially driving our subs out of phase?
When I exchange the wires, loudspeaker cone starts kicking outwards.
Does anyone else noticed this phenomena?

You would need to compare the sub with the other speakers in the car to see if they were out of phase with each other, and this would be quite difficult by eye, watching two things at once. For sure the dual voice coil supplies must be in phase with each other or they would cancel each other out and just generate heat and no sound.

Even if you run a sub out of phase with the rest of the car you will only lose the volume around the crossover point (depending how tightly defined that is) - it isn't automatically a bad thing, more a case of what sounds better .

Try the other way around and see what it sounds like - easy to do on the Pioneer

You may find this thread interesting How I improved the B&O sound quality for free | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com where the terminals are identified as +ve (yellow and green) from their position in the test picture

 

[m3incorp]

Also, I would like to add that most amps have a phase switch that easily allows a person to change the phase of a subwoofer. Being out of phase is not necessarily a bad thing and often done to compliment the acoustics of the vehicle.

You would need to compare the sub with the other speakers in the car to see if they were out of phase with each other, and this would be quite difficult by eye, watching two things at once. For sure the dual voice coil supplies must be in phase with each other or they would cancel each other out and just generate heat and no sound.

Even if you run a sub out of phase with the rest of the car you will only lose the volume around the crossover point (depending how tightly defined that is) - it isn't automatically a bad thing, more a case of what sounds better .

Try the other way around and see what it sounds like - easy to do on the Pioneer

You may find this thread interesting How I improved the B&O sound quality for free | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com where the terminals are identified as +ve (yellow and green) from their position in the test picture

 

[ChipG]

Please, do so and report back your findings.
Do you have a possibility to measure the signal polarity on each wire pair?

No, I don't. I won't be disassembling the speaker again.

 

[Pero]

You would need to compare the sub with the other speakers in the car to see if they were out of phase with each other, and this would be quite difficult by eye, watching two things at once. For sure the dual voice coil supplies must be in phase with each other or they would cancel each other out and just generate heat and no sound.

Even if you run a sub out of phase with the rest of the car you will only lose the volume around the crossover point (depending how tightly defined that is) - it isn't automatically a bad thing, more a case of what sounds better .

Try the other way around and see what it sounds like - easy to do on the Pioneer

You may find this thread interesting How I improved the B&O sound quality for free | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com where the terminals are identified as +ve (yellow and green) from their position in the test picture

Voice coil supplies are in phase. Or else I would not get much movement of the cone.
But I will try to play with phase of both channels simultaneous to hear the difference.

 

[Mat]

Hello, so looking to do this nice little sound mod and looking to choose which sub to fit.
I will be using the stock amp at the start and maybe will upgrade the amp later on down the line. Which speaker would be a good choice?
I like the look of the Rockford, as would like to use it's grill.
P3SD4-10
But going through the spec, it seems similar and less powerful than the Pioneer
TS-A250D4
for an extra £100

Dont want to pay over £200 tbh, so any ideas would be great.

 

[Gregs24]

Copy and paste from earlier in the thread. I haven't updated.

Just to help people out, here are a few measurements. B&O enclosure: Remember 267mm will fit inside the ridges and about 277 inside the main recess. Maximum depth is 146mm (or 160mm with mild modification) Nothing in excess of 160mm deep will fit without a spacer.

Inner hole size, outer size, depth, sensitivity, dual or single coil (all 4 ohm unless stated)

Pioneer TS-A250D4 (TS-A100D4 in the US) - 230 , 267 , 77, 133, dual (£70)
Dayton RSS265HO-4 - 230, 267, 87, 137, single ($135 NOT UK)
Dayton RSS265HO-44 - 235, 266, 90, 137, dual (will not fit without modification)($155 NOT UK)
Focal RSB-250 - 233, 271, 88, 117, dual (will not fit without modification) (£90)
Rockford Fosgate R2SD4 - 232, 275, 82, 87, dual (will not fit without modification)(£75)
JL10W0V3-4 - 230, 267, 84, 124, single (£100)
Focal 25A4 - 230, 260, 85, 126, single (£80)
Rockford Fosgate R2D4 - 232, 275, 89, 110, single (will not fit without modification) (£70)
Rockford Fosgate P2D4-10 - 232, 280(exc trim ring), 84, 150, dual (will not fit without modification) (£120)
JL10W1V3-4 - 230, 267, 84, 117, single (£200)

UK prices for a guide

 

[Gregs24]

Hello, so looking to do this nice little sound mod and looking to choose which sub to fit.
I will be using the stock amp at the start and maybe will upgrade the amp later on down the line. Which speaker would be a good choice?
I like the look of the Rockford, as would like to use it's grill.
P3SD4-10
But going through the spec, it seems similar and less powerful than the Pioneer
TS-A250D4
for an extra £100

Dont want to pay over £200 tbh, so any ideas would be great.

The Pioneer fits easily and is much cheaper - the RF would need some fettling to make it fit - all of their speakers require a hole that is 232mm rather than 230mm . The grille may not fit in the stock enclosure. I have pasted a post from earlier in the thread before this one with important measurements to take into account when replacing the speaker. Dimensions are on the OEM site for the speakers and make sure they fit before you buy.

Power of the speaker means the power it can handle not the noise it makes. Sensitivity is more important if you want to determine 'loudness'

 

[Mat]

Well I know the RF can fit, as Chef has done it in his posts, but regardless of the install, would that speaker be worth 100 more than the Pioneer?

Which one would benefit better with a later upgraded amp in the future?

Its been along time since looking into speakers again.

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