B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[m3incorp]

You don't necessarily have to have a 450 watt amp hooked to it. It will still play with whatever the stock amp puts out but won't reach it's max potential. I'd bet it will still sound a lot better than the paper weight stock sub.

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[FreePenguin]

I don’t know. Under powering that sub that much won’t sound good at all, it may. But generally you want to try and feed it something it wants. Cant feed a giant person just rice lol. It needs a steak.
The small guy will be happy one a bowl of rice

Ie. Giving a 500 watt power sub 100 watts will sound worst than a sub that requires 300 watts, 100 watts generally.

I like having an amp oversized with a smaller sub, you can always dial the gain back, but trying to force a small amp to feed a big Sub is bad generally,can clip easily.
Toss it in, but I would of been mad. Would of preferred the one you ordered

 

[Elp_jc]

Well, checked the TS-A100D4 and it only says 1,300W (which is the same as the 250 I got); it doesn't list RMS power anywhere, but probably the same 400. So it looks like the same sub, but it's listed as 3.x lbs, whereas mine as 9.x lbs; probably an error, since they look the same. Oh, and the reviews say that it can't handle the power it says, so it might work fine with less power. The issue is how much power our stock amp is putting, to know if it's going to be adequate in the long run. I don't listen to rap, or super bass heavy music, but the damn thing is way back in the trunk, so I'm sure it has to work a lot harder than I hear it, to make it into the cabin. I just don't want to fry something. Hope somebody with ample experience in this kind of thing can chime in, just to make sure this sub won't be a problem for the stock amp. Thanks gang.

 

[Gregs24]

Got the sub today, gang. I was expecting the 100 version, since I live in the US, but received the 250, which requires a lot more power. This thing is massive; it probably weighs 10 times more than the puny stock sub. It says on the back it requires 400W RMS, and 1,300 peak. Is it even worth installing it? Does anybody know how much power the stock amp makes? I wouldn't be surprised if it's 80W max. Is it going to drive a 400W RMS amp without overheating? I feel like I'm putting massive 35" tires on a Suzuki Sidekick (remember those?) with an anemic 1.3L engine (ha ha). Thanks gang.

Just put it in - it will work fine. The '250' version is what I used. It doesn't 'need' 400w RMS it can take 400w RMS. Stock amp drives it fine.

 

[m3incorp]

Any alternative sub you use will have a higher RMS than the stock sub. Lots of people have changed them out and have no problems.

Well, checked the TS-A100D4 and it only says 1,300W (which is the same as the 250 I got); it doesn't list RMS power anywhere, but probably the same 400. So it looks like the same sub, but it's listed as 3.x lbs, whereas mine as 9.x lbs; probably an error, since they look the same. Oh, and the reviews say that it can't handle the power it says, so it might work fine with less power. The issue is how much power our stock amp is putting, to know if it's going to be adequate in the long run. I don't listen to rap, or super bass heavy music, but the damn thing is way back in the trunk, so I'm sure it has to work a lot harder than I hear it, to make it into the cabin. I just don't want to fry something. Hope somebody with ample experience in this kind of thing can chime in, just to make sure this sub won't be a problem for the stock amp. Thanks gang.

 

[Elp_jc]

Sounds good then. Will start the upgrade later today. Thank you to all for your great input .

EDIT 1: Stock sub: 3 lb 11.45 oz; Pioneer: 8 lb 12.75 oz. So 5 lbs 1.3 oz difference. Ouch! Removed terminals from the connectors, so that's done. Now to install gasket, and Dremel the sub, to expand the top notch (not going to touch the stock enclosure), and enlarge the screw holes all the way outward.

 

[grhmw]

The Voice Coil

A voice coil is the coil of wire around the former (tube) attached to the apex of the speaker cone. The voice coil provides the motive force to the cone by the reaction of a magnetic field to the current passing through it.

A single voice coil has one winding coil and a dual voice coil has two separate windings. Since both coils are energized, they perform the same as one with no difference other than wiring connection options.

The Dual Voice Coil Advantage
Most car amplifiers provide specified amounts of power (wattage) at common impedance ratings measured in ohms. The MTX THUNDER1000.1 mono channel amplifier for subwoofers is rated at 350 Watts wired to 4 ohm impedance load (speaker combination), 600W RMS at 2 ohms impedance load, and 1000W RMS at a 1 ohm load.

A 2 ohm, single voice coil sub has a fixed 2 ohm impedance rating, so would draw 600 watts from this amplifier. The same 2 ohm sub with a dual voice coil would offer 1 ohm and 4 ohm connections, depending on whether you wire the two voice coil terminal pairs in series or in parallel. Choosing the 1 ohm wiring method for this sub would make 1000 watts available from the same amplifier.

Happy hunting

Question for you. When you used the JL SVC sub how did you wire it up? Did you just use one of the sets of wires that went to the original sub?

 

[m3incorp]

I used the green and yellow (both are +) and black and purple (both are -) and ran them to the input on the JL amp. In your case, this would be going to the new subwoofer.

Question for you. When you used the JL SVC sub how did you wire it up? Did you just use one of the sets of wires that went to the original sub?

 

[m3incorp]

How did it go with the upgrade?

Sounds good then. Will start the upgrade later today. Thank you to all for your great input .

EDIT 1: Stock sub: 3 lb 11.45 oz; Pioneer: 8 lb 12.75 oz. So 5 lbs 1.3 oz difference. Ouch! Removed terminals from the connectors, so that's done. Now to install gasket, and Dremel the sub, to expand the top notch (not going to touch the stock enclosure), and enlarge the screw holes all the way outward.

 

[grhmw]

What I meant was when you just added the JL SVC sub in the stock enclosure. I am thinking on going this way. I did add the box with 2 10s but just too much, just going to upgrade sub in factory enclose and thinking about getting the JL 10w1

I used the green and yellow (both are +) and black and purple (both are -) and ran them to the input on the JL amp. In your case, this would be going to the new subwoofer.

 

[Elp_jc]

How did it go with the upgrade?

Just finished. It was a PITA to do the top slot on the sub (rather than cutting the plastic tab) perfectly, but that allowed the sub to be installed rock solid, with absolutely zero movement. Then proceeded to extend the 6 holes with a Dremel cutting wheel, since the lip/edge was smack in the middle of the stock holes. Then put the stock grille on top of the sub, and installed it with the stock Torx screws, and it was pretty solid. It was a pain to install the last 2 speaker wires, since I kept the stock terminals, and inserted them from the inside out. But was finally able to do it by rotating the sub a little, then rotating it back once wires were installed. Haven't tried it because car is covered, but need to take it for a monthly ride one of these days, and will try out the stereo. I'm throwing away the stock sub, so it better work. Ha ha. Thank you and everybody else for all your help .

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

Can someone assist with the wiring for the Pioneer subwoofer please.

Do both factory positive wires go into the top Pioneer positive terminal and both factory negative wires go into the top Pioneer negative terminal (leaving the bottom Pioneer positive and negative terminals free)?
OR
Do the two factory positive wires go into the two Pioneer positive terminals and two factory negative wires go into the two Pioneer negative terminals?
OR
Something else?

I've attached an image representing my question diagrammatically
Thanks

 

[FreePenguin]

the way ive always wired my double voice coil subs, (4 wires) into 2 ohms.

I take the two positives, and wind them into 1.
I take the two negatives, and I wind them into 1.

so 2 reds into 1 red lead
so 2 blacks into 1 black lead

then I run each lead into amp. 1 pos 1 neg.

thats 2 ohm.

correct me if I wrong. I didn't do this project, but thats how ive done it


I am admiring your artistic ability, 2nd chart is how I do it.

 

[m3incorp]

If wiring into an aftermarket amp that handles 2 ohms. Do as FreePenguin said above. If you are going to use the stock amp, then wire one positive to each of the positive terminals on the sub and one negative to each of the negative terminals on the sub.

 

[FreePenguin]

I should of expressed more greatly that 2nd photo was for aftarmerket amp.

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