Autocross FS: Alignment Recommendation

[Areddi]

Looking for a recommendation on alignment settings for an FS build. My go-to has been 1/8th out in the front before which has worked well on course and left the car streetable. I'll be on a set of 275 Rs3's on OEM PP wheels for a little bit and eventually a fresh set of RE71 (or otherwise) next season.

Any thoughts are welcome!

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[jdub.csu]

Looking for a recommendation on alignment settings for an FS build. My go-to has been 1/8th out in the front before which has worked well on course and left the car streetable. I'll be on a set of 275 Rs3's on OEM PP wheels for a little bit and eventually a fresh set of RE71 (or otherwise) next season.

Any thoughts are welcome!

Here are mine. RE71r tires (285 all 4), aftermarket rims (lighter and 7mm more offset), koni's (might upgrade these for next year) and rear strano bar, lighter exhaust. I ended in 2nd place in my local region this year with this setup.

34 front tire pressure and 31 rear pressure. You can run a little lower if you like.

Caster as close as possible and max as possible
-2.3 up front
-.10 total toe front
-1.8 rear camber
.30 total toe rear

 

[kz]

Here are mine. RE71r tires, aftermarket rims (lighter and 7mm more offset), koni's (might upgrade these for next year) and rear strano bar, lighter exhaust. I ended in 2nd place in my local region this year with this setup.

34 front tire pressure and 31 rear pressure. You can run a little lower if you like.

Caster as close as possible and max as possible
-2.3 up front
-.10 total toe front
1.8 rear camber
.30 total toe rear

What wheels are you running ? And your rear camber is +1.8 ?
(Thanks for sharing btw)

 

[jdub.csu]

What wheels are you running ? And your rear camber is +1.8 ?
(Thanks for sharing btw)

-1.8 sorry fixing that now

I got them from strano's they are custom forgestar units. They weigh like 10lbs less a corner

 

[NightmareMoon]

Those alignment settings look pretty good to me. I run zero toe in the front, but otherwise it's pretty much that. Konis and RE71R in 275/35. Stock wheels. Strano rear bar.

 

[jdub.csu]

I forgot to say I slotted the struts to get that camber up front.

 

[kz]

I told they guy to do max negative camber when they installed Konis, other than that I had no clue what to tell them so I'm not sure what toe settings I have (may have printout somewhere).

 

[jdub.csu]

I run 1.5 turns off soft for front and rear for the konis also.

 

[402]

I dont auto cross but my current setup for the road course is
Front
-3.1 camber
7.7 caster
.1 total toe
full stiff on sway
shock middle on both

Rear
-2.5 caster
.3 total toe
full soft on sway
shock middle on both



It was performing amazing for first outing, rear is perfect besides need of some more sway bar, front needs more camber. Possibly shock adjusment too.

 

[kz]

How did you get so much camber on front ? Camber plates ?

 

[402]

How did you get so much camber on front ? Camber plates ?

Yes, rocking j&m caster/camber plates. KW v3s also come with a slotted bolt hole. Camber plates are maxed out, and we fine tune with the slotted hole.

 

[Whiskey11]

I dont auto cross but my current setup for the road course is
Front
-3.1 camber
7.7 caster
.1 total toe
full stiff on sway
shock middle on both

Rear
-2.5 caster
.3 total toe
full soft on sway
shock middle on both



It was performing amazing for first outing, rear is perfect besides need of some more sway bar, front needs more camber. Possibly shock adjusment too.

Yeah, so he's talking about F-Street, where things like camber plates, lowering springs, both swaybars, and other real suspension bits, aren't allowed.

You are limited to basically the following:
-Catback Exhaust
-Shocks/Struts
-One swaybar (front or rear)
-200 TW Tires on +/- 1" from factory diameter wheels with factory widths and +/- 7mm of offset
-Replacing the factory air filter with an aftermarket air filter.... not the air box, just the filter.

That's a gross oversimplification, but that's about the extent of it.

I'm at -2.1º up front with zero total toe and whatever factory caster was (I don't remember, probably +6.8). Rear camber is at -2.2º with toe also at zero. I have Koni's, running a half turn from full stiff up front and a turn from stiff out back, and a BMR front swaybar. 285/35/19 RE71R's on factory PP wheels. I placed 18th at Nats with this car, my co-driver 20th. Placed 1-2 in the local region with pretty comparable drivers in the region.

I drove the Strano rear bar setup and felt that while it may be faster overall, the car required way too many inputs to be driven fast and it was excessively sensitive to throttle position. I couldn't get the hang of it and overall didn't care for how loose it made the car. My BMR front bar is on the softest setting and the car transitions really well. Next year is going to be a fun year as we finally figured out the shock tuning to make the car do what we want (allow a mid corner correction) and it comes out of a corner REALLY hard and is pretty balanced at the limit now.

 

[Static_LV]

I am set up as follows:

-1.4 / -1.5 up front (have no idea how you guys are getting over 2 with slotted Koni's)
-1.6 / -1.6 in back
caster is factory
1/16 total toe out in front
1/16 total toe in in back

No sway bar yet, and running 1 turn from soft up front and 1/2 turn from soft in the rear for the factory Pirellis. This will probably change now that I have some RE71R's to put on there.

This setup feels very neutral to me without being particularly loose.

 

[Whiskey11]

I am set up as follows:

-1.4 / -1.5 up front (have no idea how you guys are getting over 2 with slotted Koni's)
-1.6 / -1.6 in back
caster is factory
1/16 total toe out in front
1/16 total toe in in back

No sway bar yet, and running 1 turn from soft up front and 1/2 turn from soft in the rear for the factory Pirellis. This will probably change now that I have some RE71R's to put on there.

This setup feels very neutral to me without being particularly loose.

Loosen the two lower control arm bolts at the engine cross member, pull out and have someone tighten while you pull out. Then go up to the top at the strut mount and loosen the 3 bolts and push the top of the strut in towards the engine. That takes all of the "tolerances" in the suspension components and stacks them towards negative camber. I was sitting around -1.7 from the factory up front without slotting on my GT/PP.

 

[Static_LV]

Good to know...Looks like I have some work ahead of me

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