Search results

That's not the dark side, that's literally what everyone runs except a few of us who are crazy and run the front bar. My experience is spoiled by the fact I run on the Nationals Concrete for EVERY event. I have a lot of seat time on this concrete. In these tighter courses on smaller lots, the...

Isn't that kind of the point? FWIW, when I ran FS (now running a Honda Civic Si in GS... don't ask :P), we ran Front Bar in softest hole, -2.0 camber up front, zero toe, as much caster as I could get shoving the strut mount back and in. Out back, ran -2.2 camber, and zero toe. Car rotated...

I'm 6'5" but have a 32" inseam... yes... I'm tall from the waist up... it makes cars with low headspace hard to drive... BUT, I can still autocross all of the Miata generations, so that's at least a plus! :)

You missed my point entirely... my point was that Mazda dropped 200 pounds from the NC Miata to the ND Miata... not that the Miata is lighter than the Mustang... I would have thought that point was made obvious by referencing the NC Miatas... and then the 5th to 6th Gen Camaro... but apparently...

Considering the previous generation Miata weighed 200lbs more to comply with modern safety standards... I'd say that's a pretty big feat of engineering... they didn't even do it with anything radical like changing the body to aluminum....

Less weight has a myriad of benefits from improved performance to improved fuel economy. The Japanese have figured out how to keep the Miata at around 2300lbs in the modern era without significantly raising the price of the car. It also conveniently has a great front and rear suspension...

Honestly, something about the S197 sized or just a hair smaller would be perfect for the Mustang... target weight of a GT should be about 3300lbs or less. Use aluminum, give us a superior front suspension design (and make it talk to the rear suspension.... looking at you 6th gen's still running...

Yeah, if you dive bomb corners, the front bar setup isn't for you. It requires you to be on point with being at the right speed at the start of the corner to get out on the gas as hard as you can. It's also a setup that works exceptionally well on the larger national style courses on concrete...

I find a strange twist of irony when Sam, who was one of the biggest proponents of them being "the same but in different ways", is now back pedaling on his comments back then by saying "Well the course minimized the disadvantages of the Mustang and Camaro and minimized the advantages of the...

There has been a few revisions to the bar's bushings. They took away the grease zerk fitting bushings quite a few years ago (less than a year after launching the bar) and used the same bracket with a bushing that didn't have the hole for the zerk in it. The recent change has more to do with...

Since backing the bar off to the softest setting, I haven't had issues with the bushings splitting either... but the first few events of the first season with the front bar, I ran with it full stiff and in the middle position and it would go through bushings like crazy. I must not have been the...

You are welcome! :) As one of the original purchasers of the BMR front bar, I found a huge problem in the bushing they used very early on. My car was destroying the grease zerk bushings at the grease zerk hole in the bushing. The problem was a combination of bar forces (partly bar spring...

There was next to no discussion anywhere but on the Sandbox about STP going away... the STAC decided that because it was a provisional class, and participation was low (because they intentionally delayed the class to see if CAM would be successful....) that they'd ax it before giving it time to...

Which is why some of us run a front bar instead of the rear bar... on my 2015 GT/PP we have the BMR bar at the softest setting (like 15% stiffer than stock or something, not much, just enough). It made a huge difference. I have run it in all three settings and full stiff is absurdly pushy in...

1/4" = 0.25"... 0.3" total would be 0.05" more than a quarter inch... or did you mean 0.3° total toe? You can make a degrees symbol by holding alt down on the keyboard and hitting 00176 then releasing the alt key if you are on a standard QWERTY keyboard with number pad. (or just type degrees).

You'd be surprised... I run -2.2 out back on my car and I think that makes me unique among the Mustang drivers. Rear toe set to zero. Alignment guy said he could get me up to -3.5 degrees out back pretty easily... don't need that much but nice to know the option exists I guess lol! Front...

On my car, the 285's are lasting about 80 runs or so between myself and co-driver, both trophy capable drivers. Caveat is that I run pretty much ONLY on the Lincoln Airport's concrete which is particularly hard on tires when run consistently. Generally flip after the 4th or 5th event depending...

Generally speaking in a front steer setup you will toe OUT when you go more negative with camber. When I had my 2009 Mustang setup to make camber changes at the autocross, I had the alignment shop tell me what the toe change was between my street and autocross setting. The Toe OUT change was...

He has a very good reason for not doing so... his car is not a PP car so it has softer rear springs... I chatted with him at the banquet and we talked about his setup some. Not sure how much detail he wants me to go into, so I'll avoid talking about the specifics too much.

I could definitely see the non PP cars needing a rear bar to compensate for the softer rear springs. The PP cars are just a little too twitchy with the rear bar on, even a touch twitchy from the factory, for my driving style. But that's the glory of having the choice for either or! Needless...