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Assembling an Engine… any tips?

Jackson1320

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Because the original rings are being used so they are seated to the respected bore. Hopefully the pistons were numbered to their bore placement.
absolutely. rings have to go back in the hole they were in. i don't like to reuse rings but still check gaps
 
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absolutely. rings have to go back in the hole they were in. i don't like to reuse rings but still check gaps
Sounds good. I’ll check gaps and make sure they are good.

What range should I be looking for? They are gapped for boost but I will be running N/A for the time being.

And how do I clean out the water passages?
 

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Because the original rings are being used so they are seated to the respected bore. Hopefully the pistons were numbered to their bore placement.
Definitely ^^^.

Glad you brought this up, I was going to post similar response….

Anytime rebuilding an engine, during the disassembly all of the pertinent parts should always be numbered as they were pulled and labeled if needed….especially if said parts would be reused during the rebuild. In fact, with anyone having a cell phone handy today, this can be documented very easily with a photo history log.
 

GregO

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absolutely. rings have to go back in the hole they were in. i don't like to reuse rings but still check gaps
Now we know the OP is reusing the factory installed rings that were gapped by the seller the question becomes is there a specific Ford recommended ring end gap orientation ? ie; Top ring end gap clocked @ 90 deg. from zero point, second ring clocked @ 120 deg. etc. ?
 

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Jackson1320

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Sounds good. I’ll check gaps and make sure they are good.

What range should I be looking for? They are gapped for boost but I will be running N/A for the time being.

And how do I clean out the water passages?
you can use muriatic acid to clean aluminum but i think a water hose and degreaser should do it
 

GregO

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And how do I clean out the water passages?
I’d suggest cleaning after installing the engine.
Look into the product in the attached picture and decide what’s best, at 26k there’s probably no reason to worry about aggressively cleaning the coolant jacket.
2B4F733E-2070-419E-964E-989B99F5C063.webp
 

GregO

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Avoid using muriatic acid on all accounts………..
Muriatic Acid is hydrochloric acid and will etch away the protective natural oxide coating of aluminum.
 

Jackson1320

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Avoid using muriatic acid on all accounts………..
Muriatic Acid is hydrochloric acid and will etch away the protective natural oxide coating of aluminum.
There's no protective coating inside the cooling system
 

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GregO

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Here are some more photos. I know they aren’t the best and I’ll get some better ones tonight.

3450E701-5BE7-492D-AF3F-5184F6C7292F.jpeg
6F74E3CE-BFCC-4794-A259-6E8FFDD656D0.jpeg
84EBF4F6-5D35-4928-9400-7061C5C02EF4.jpeg
0DB748C4-FC10-478C-B26F-217DD034AC35.jpeg
Those bores are beautiful !
As I suggested, white cloths until clean and follow up with PS-919 wipes.
 

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There's no protective coating inside the cooling system
Aluminum has its own protective self-healing coating that forms similarly to 300 series stainless steel protective self-healing crystalline coating.
Acid etches off the natural protective oxide coating.

Acid washing should be avoided.
 
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Jackson1320

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Now we know the OP is reusing the factory installed rings that were gapped by the seller the question becomes is there a specific Ford recommended ring end gap orientation ? ie; Top ring end gap clocked @ 90 deg. from zero point, second ring clocked @ 120 deg. etc. ?
i prefer 180,180,180
 

Jackson1320

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Aluminum has its own protective self healing coating that forms similarly to stainless steel.
Acid etches off that natural protective oxide coating.

Acid washing should be avoided.
like i said degreaser and water should do it. acid wash works on heavily clogged Passages
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