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Assembling an Engine… any tips?

tdstuart

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Assembling my gen3 coyote shortblock.

Any tips on cleaning the engine and best practices when re-assembling? The motor was a used motor I bought from another user.

I’m going to leave the rings as the previous owner gapped them, but I am going to replace all the bearings.

Also thoughts on the cylinder walls? Is the spray in liner okay, and can it be damaged easily?
FEFACD4F-ABE3-472F-AA31-87526F88A5BA.jpeg
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GregO

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Also thoughts on the cylinder walls? Is the spray in liner okay, and can it be damaged easily?
[
CB7D1EF4-A50C-4814-864B-E561D3C18D8E.jpeg

Off the cuff, I’d say the photo of the cylinder wall has the appearance of iron/steel transfer from the piston rings and humidity has oxidized the piston ring wear deposited along the cylinder wall.
Within Austenitic stainless materials this is called “Free Iron” and is removed by passivation solution.
I’m not suggesting you passivate the cylinder, just providing an example of how iron can appear on a non-ferrous metallic surface.

The cylinder coating is tough as nails !
 
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[
CB7D1EF4-A50C-4814-864B-E561D3C18D8E.jpeg

Off the cuff, I’d say the photo of the cylinder wall has the appearance of iron/steel transfer from the piston rings and humidity oxidizing the piston ring wear deposits to cylinder wall.
Within Austenitic stainless materials this is called “Free Iron” and is removed by passivation solution.
I’m not suggesting you passivate the cylinder, just providing an example of how iron can appear on a non-ferrous metallic surface.

The cylinder coating is tough as nails !
Good to hear. I figured it wasn't the coating being removed, but nice to hear someone with some more technical knowledge on what it actually is.

Just from looking at the block the previous owner probably lived in a way more humid climate so this would make sense.

So you think should just leave it and not worry about it?
 

GregO

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Good to hear. I figured it wasn't the coating being removed, but nice to hear someone with some more technical knowledge on what it actually is.

Just from looking at the block the previous owner probably lived in a way more humid climate so this would make sense.

So you think should just leave it and not worry about it?
Let’s start with the assumption what you posted a picture of is a benign transfer of iron from the rings.
Question; Is the majority of the cylinder discoloration areas on the thrust side of the cylinders ?

If you’re reusing the rings I’d advise against any type of abrasives or brush hones.

I know of a few very mild chemical solutions that will dissolve free iron from metallic surfaces but there’s always a risk of possibly etching the substrate.

You could try wiping the cylinders by hand with white cotton cloths soaked in Kerosene, WD-40, PB Blaster etc. This might lift some of the iron discoloration off the PTWA coating.
 

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Let’s start with the assumption what you posted a picture of is a benign transfer of iron from the rings.
Question; Is the majority of the cylinder discoloration areas on the thrust side of the cylinders ?

If you’re reusing the rings I’d advise against any type of abrasives or brush hones.

I know of a few very mild chemical solutions that will dissolve free iron from metallic surfaces but there’s always a risk of possibly etching the substrate.

You could try wiping the cylinders by hand with white cotton cloths soaked in Kerosene, WD-40, PB Blaster etc. This might lift some of the iron discoloration off the PTWA coating.
Went a little over my head lmao.

The picture shows the number 8 cylinder. With the discoloration being towards the inside of the block. Don’t know if that’s the thrust side or not.

And what do you mean by “If you’re reusing the rings I’d advise against any type of abrasives or brush hones.”. Are you just saying if I am going to reuse the rings don’t go too hard on trying to clean it?

Also should I even try to clean it?
 

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And what do you mean by “If you’re reusing the rings
Are you using the rings that are currently installed on the pistons ?
Are the rings new or are they the original rings installed by Ford ?

Always clean the bore before assembly. White cloth will visually show any contaminants, wipe with clean cloths until the cloth show no grime. After all that cleaning follow up with PROSAT PS-919 wipes.
 
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Jackson1320

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a quick couple passes with the hone and oil will do. not much. you need a good surface for the rings to seat otherwise your waisting your time. if the rings don't seat properly you will burn oil like crazy. never reuse rings. if the rings are new what material are they? what coating is on them? what did he gap them to?
 
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GregO

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you need to get a ball hone and clean the cylinders. don't trust anyones work check ring gap yourself and don't reuse rings
It is not a good idea to use a ball hone on PTWA cylinders.
A Brush hone is better suited for this application.
The crosshatch in the picture is in superb condition and IMO shouldn’t be touched with anything but cleaning cloths.
 

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Are you using the rings that are currently installed on the pistons ?
Are the rings new or are they the original rings installed by Ford ?

Always clean the bore before assembly. White cloth will visually show any contaminants, wipe with clean cloths until the cloth show no grime. After all that cleaning follow up with PROSAT PS-919 wipes.
They are the used original ford rings currently on the piston. Motor has 26k miles. My plan was just to reuse them. Previous owner regapped the rings than never ran it after.

So you think I should try to get whatever residue is on the cylinder walls off?

I’ll look into those wipes.

Also what’s the best way to make sure the oil and coolant passages are clean? Been trying my best but still afraid when removing the rtv sealant that some may have gotten in the coolant passages or some plastic from the plastic scrapers.
 

Jackson1320

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It is not a good idea to use a ball hone on PTWA cylinders.
A Brush hone is better suited for this application.
The crosshatch in the picture is in superb condition and IMO shouldn’t be touched with anything but cleaning cloths.
you can't see 90% of the cylinder so how can you say "superb". a couple passes will clean it and probably not even scratch it
 
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you can't see 90% of the cylinder so how can you say "superb". a couple passes will clean it and probably not even scratch it
Here are some more photos. I know they aren’t the best and I’ll get some better ones tonight.

3450E701-5BE7-492D-AF3F-5184F6C7292F.jpeg
6F74E3CE-BFCC-4794-A259-6E8FFDD656D0.jpeg
84EBF4F6-5D35-4928-9400-7061C5C02EF4.jpeg
0DB748C4-FC10-478C-B26F-217DD034AC35.jpeg
 

Jackson1320

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They are the used original ford rings currently on the piston. Motor has 26k miles. My plan was just to reuse them. Previous owner regapped the rings than never ran it after.

So you think I should try to get whatever residue is on the cylinder walls off?

I’ll look into those wipes.

Also what’s the best way to make sure the oil and coolant passages are clean? Been trying my best but still afraid when removing the rtv sealant that some may have gotten in the coolant passages or some plastic from the plastic scrapers.
use new rings. i personally would not assemble it tell the cylinder we're good. ring seal is very important. don't worry to much about the coolant passages. just wash them out anything left you can flush out
 

GregO

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you can't see 90% of the cylinder so how can you say "superb". a couple passes will clean it and probably not even scratch it
Because the original rings are being used so they are seated to the respected bore. Hopefully the pistons were numbered to their bore placement.
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