Preventing Engine Failure Gen3 Coyote

[Holmes]

Hi Everyone,
Looking for some input. I've got a 2019 Mustang GT PP1, Purchased New. I started tracking the car at 500 miles and have done a lot of HPDE and Time Trials. The car is not my daily and pretty much now a dedicated track car. It has just over 10,000 miles total and probably 7,000 of those are on the track. Engine and drive train wise, I've done the following:
-Ford Performance Cold Air Intake with larger throttle body, 91 octane Tune from Ford Performance.
-Oil Catch Can
-Wrapped Exhaust around Diff, Changed to 75W140 Gear Oil, Kenny Brown Diff Cooler.
-Engine Oil is 5w30 changed no less than every 4 track days.
-Diff Gear Oil is changed twice per season, or immediately if we ever get a high temp warning.
-Transmission Fluid is changed twice per season (MT82 Manual Transmission).
-Brake Flushed after each track weekend, or if car sits for more the 60 days.
-Brakes are checked after every event and pads replaced at 5mm. Rotors replaced once per season or as needed based on inspection.

I just had a buddy who is having to replace his Mustang engine due to oil pump failure. So, now that we are going into winter and the car will be down for a few months, I'm thinking about doing the following for preventative measures. I'd rather spend some money now to prevent failure than lose track time or have an accident when/if something does fail.
-Replace Oil Pump and Gears. (Anything else to do once we have the front of the engine open?)
-New Clutch.
-New Wheel Hubs/Bearings

What else might I consider to gain reliability and perhaps increase performance? Are there other items that might be prone to failure in cars that see a lot of track time?
I'm not going to forced induction right now, but might in the next couple of years...just something to keep in-mind.

Thank you for the input and suggestions.

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[Ewheels]

Something to consider: you could also get an Accusump. It won't prevent failures but it'll buy you a few seconds if you do have an oil pump failure. If you catch it in time, it'll save your engine.

 

[Dana Pants]

I’m just going to drive my car till it blows. It probably won’t without a moon tune.

As far as real failures I personally experienced: I recommend threadlock red for the wheel bearing big nuts more than actually replacing as they get loose. I recommend ARP wheel studs as I broke a bunch of stock wheel studs.

I recommend solving any wheel hop issues as they cause axles to break.

 

[EFI]

What else might I consider to gain reliability and perhaps increase performance?

What have you done to keep it cool? That is equally as important as increasing the strength of certain parts.

If it were me, I'd skip the OPG (unless you plan on revving to over 8000rpm) and do a nice balancer to prevent alot of the bad harmonics that kills the OPGs. Something like the new Fluidampr or ATI.

If you really want to go digging into the engine, doing a GT500 oil pump and pan kit would kill 2 birds with one stone. Also you should go with a heavier oil like an 0W-40 or 5W50, especially if it's mainly driven on track.

 

[Andy13186]

Dont rev over 8k thats what killed mine. Rocker arm retaining clips came off and atleast one went through a cam, broke cam cap bolts. ALso had multiple broken piston skirts. But this was OEM gen 3 and I probably hit 8500 like 100+ maybe even 500+ times in 60k miles idk. Despite all this the car still ran fine and didnt make noises and had the same power. I just had cam sensor codes since my cam was bent.
This and more was in my oil pan while the car was still running fine

 

[Biggus Dickus]

I'd consider a GT 500 oil pain with the pump that comes with it: https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-6675-m52s.html
Probably a good idea for tracking.

 

[ice445]

Log your knock retard since you're running a tune on track. If you're getting like +5 or more every time you hit the gas, that's not going to help your engine's longevity. Will tell you if you need to increase the octane in the tank for your sessions.

 

[Zrussian13]

Add octane and keep the engine as cool as possible. The only time I see engine failures are boosted cars or people tracking cars on the Ford performance tune really. I don't think ford performance tune is as safe fir a track car as some people think.

 

[EFI]

I don't think ford performance tune is as safe fir a track car as some people think.

It's not any less safer, if you look in the fine details of the tune itself it has the same safety parameters as the OEM tune. However it's more octane (and heat) dependent since it's a bit more aggressive with the timing, so that's where people tend to have issues on track. Either by not using the best fuel or by letting the engines run hot.

Which goes back to your initial point...using good fuel/octane and keeping it cool will extend the life and prevent premature failures.

 

[Zrussian13]

It's not any less safer, if you look in the fine details of the tune itself it has the same safety parameters as the OEM tune. However it's more octane (and heat) dependent since it's a bit more aggressive with the timing, so that's where people tend to have issues on track. Either by not using the best fuel or by letting the engines run hot.

Which goes back to your initial point...using good fuel/octane and keeping it cool will extend the life and prevent premature failures.

Well I'd say you explained it much better than me!

 

[pt's21]

A good timing chain sprocket to go with the OPG.

 

[roger1981]

I'd consider a GT 500 oil pain with the pump that comes with it: https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-6675-m52s.html
Probably a good idea for tracking.

I was just surfing new posts and I came across yours and maybe I can offer you one for cheaper if interested. I have a Brand New 2020-22 Predator GT500 Pan and high volume pressure Pump Kit, complete with windage tray gasket, bolts, scavenger pickup pipe that I bought from Ford performance but got to sell because I need money. I can give a way better deal than any store if interested. I was already going to list it for sale on Mustang6g when I get home later. If you want I can let you know when it's up for sale.

 

[JFBullitt]

Dont rev over 8k thats what killed mine. Rocker arm retaining clips came off and atleast one went through a cam, broke cam cap bolts. ALso had multiple broken piston skirts. But this was OEM gen 3 and I probably hit 8500 like 100+ maybe even 500+ times in 60k miles idk. Despite all this the car still ran fine and didnt make noises and had the same power. I just had cam sensor codes since my cam was bent.
This and more was in my oil pan while the car was still running fine

What this really proves to me is that engine is pretty damn tough.

There are a multitude of performance car engines that would've exploded far before that mileage operating that far outside of OEM limits.

 

[Andy13186]

What this really proves to me is that engine is pretty damn tough.

There are a multitude of performance car engines that would've exploded far before that mileage operating that far outside of OEM limits.

I agree, and 20k miles of those were at 800 rwhp, around 2x the OEM HP hitting 8k every day atleast 10x times a day, never 8500 intentionally but I did many times unintentionally in rolling burnouts while paddle shifting etc. Worked from home so I just drove for fun

 

[horsepower addiction]

If you change the oil pump gears you might as well do the crank sprocket, put on boss tensioners, a MMR secondary tensioner flip bracket, GT 350 primary timing chains, aftermarket secondary chains. This is the bare minimum you should do if you are going to open it up.

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