Anti-Gravity vrs relocate batt

[88workcar]

Who has opted to do a relocation rather than swap to an anti-gravity? How do you like it. Pros/Cons? I have had 7-8 anti-gravities for my race boat over the yrs, not new to me. I have had success and failures with them. The center of gravity change is much better relocating the Battery. Just not seeing much of it in this forum. The ol Fox body saw 100K miles with the battery in the back. Thanks

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[Skye]

I've done only general calculations on the idea of moving a traditional battery to the trunk.

The battery move will shift roughly 1% of the car's weight from the front to the rear, placing that mass where the driver prefers. But there are two costs: monetary and additional weight, in purchasing and installing the cabling and hardware to make the move.

I've not done it before. Will moving the battery by itself result in a worthwhile change in performance?

Edit,

As part of an overall program to remove weight from the front, or shift the distribution of weight, moving the battery could be one piece of that project. But by itself, it seems, no.

 

[WItoTX]

If you have mag-ride, then I would skip the AG. I had one, and it was non-stop problems with the car BMS and the AG BMS, and it would kill my magride. Engage the ABS? Mag ride dead.

My AG is now my battery for my winch, and I have a traditional battery in the trunk. Works awesome, but an expensive lesson learned.

 

[Cobra Jet]

IMO, moving an S550 battery to the trunk is more trouble than it’s worth and won’t produce any gains whatsoever…

This practice was more popular 15-30 years ago where most vehicles had a severe weight distribution imbalance. That imbalance today is negligible when most vehicle manufacturers are trying to get a 50/50 weight distribution. Vehicles of the past were mostly all motor upfront and had hardly any wiring harness mass, absent of multiple module mass, absent of airbags and associated mass, absent of “insulation” mass, and did not have multiple PCM’s located throughout the vehicle. The battery was placed on the passenger side rear - because in most instances for track time, the driver was the only body in the vehicle. The battery was placed over the rear wheel to add weight to aid when the car launched and to offset the driver body weight in the vehicle due to removal of all other weight from that vehicle.

If the vehicle is going to be a track only, stripped down shell to shed as much weight as possible to gain the most momentum needed for XYZ track use on a competitive level - then sure go for it.

If this is a vehicle that sees hardly any track time and you’re wanting to do it “just because”, it’s a waste of time, money and won’t have any gain at all.

 

[Skye]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/the-what-things-weigh-thread.15864/

This thread might compliment any plans for removing or moving items.

 

[Wolfys11]

I moved my battery to the trunk in my ecoboost, im not sure if its worth the hassle honestly, i was going to make a massive catch can in the place of the battery, but otherwise its alot of work for not alot of gains

 

[VictorH]

I went the AG battery route and had considered battery relocation option too. As already pointed out, relocation is a pretty marginal cost-benefit solution. I think the same argument could be made for the AG battery.
All these AG battery failures folks are experiencing I wonder about. Did those people all go for the 7-8 pound tiny battery option? I have the full-sized automotive AG battery. Going on 2 nearly 3 years of uses. My car has sat for 3-4 weeks at a time and starts up each and every time (I try not to let it sit that long). Have driven on two 2,500 mile trips with no trouble and generally have been satisfied. What about weight loss? My AG batter weighs (if I'm remembering correctly) 12-13 pounds and stock was something like 32 lbs. It's not a very good trade off in terms of cost but I've had good luck so far. I've been trying to "lose weight" without extreme measures and have my car at 3,780 lbs (Tremec trans) with full-tank of gas. Have full interior including back seat.
Anyway, it's a trade-off but I've had good luck with the full-size automotive AG battery.

 

[Snellemin]

If you have mag-ride, then I would skip the AG. I had one, and it was non-stop problems with the car BMS and the AG BMS, and it would kill my magride. Engage the ABS? Mag ride dead.

My AG is now my battery for my winch, and I have a traditional battery in the trunk. Works awesome, but an expensive lesson learned.

Do you think something like a 2 farad capacitor in parallel with the AG battery would've helped. I'm thinking there was to much ripple current with that tiny battery under load, causing the havoc you were experiencing.

 

[WItoTX]

Do you think something like a 2 farad capacitor in parallel with the AG battery would've helped. I'm thinking there was to much ripple current with that tiny battery under load, causing the havoc you were experiencing.

Maybe. It had more capacity than the current AGM I have in the car. It's the BMS on the LiPo itself that is in conflict with the car BMS.

I should have clarified though, it seems like guys with the stock MR controller, or no MR, have way less or no issues. So there is that.

 

[Snellemin]

Maybe. It had more capacity than the current AGM I have in the car. It's the BMS on the LiPo itself that is in conflict with the car BMS.

I should have clarified though, it seems like guys with the stock MR controller, or no MR, have way less or no issues. So there is that.

That sounds like the BMS is the culprit. Like it produces enough "noise" to trip/interfere with the more sensitive electronics. Good to know about the AG batteries, and I'll stay away from it. Kinda pricey too for such little capacity.

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