All season tires for supercharger

[Frrst]

Hahahah that OP - that was good I needed a laugh. All season tires, supercharger BWAHAH

Well I didn't know, now I do ​

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[ahl395]

Yeah,probably. Sigh. I dunno cheap ass wheels sounds kind of sketch to me.

I mean I know I'm not gonna be able to straight up mash it. More concerned if like flooring@speed is gonna be an issue. Also if I can literally NEVER floor it...? Sure I'm not the only one that thinks that's kind of lame. Why spend the money for all that power?

With all seasons, you can't floor it at speed either. With summer tires, you can gradually press it to the floor. With DRs you can drop it to the floor. With my MPSS before my suspension mods and on a cooler day, even dropping the pedal at 60 would fishtail. Ease into it though and they'd be alright. DRs are really the way to go though. It took me a long time to finally move from the MPSS to DRs and I seriously regret not doing it sooner.

that's why FI is rather pointless for street use. Now if you have enough tarmac to roll into the throttle so wheel spin is minimized while accelerating with gusto, that's worth something. Otherwise it's a drag-strip only feature. Or you just want to roast tires and crowd plow whenever the inclination strikes.


put the A/S on your current wheels (now or in the fall) and source a 10/11 or 10/10 set for the fun tires.

If you think FI is pointless on the street, you never had proper tires. I can put down all 830whp I have in 2nd gear.

One thing to consider: tire width isn't everything - tire height also affects contact patch size. A 285/35 has a smaller dia. than a 275/40. While the 285 is about 1/2" wider, the contact patch from front to back will be slightly shorter, offsetting some of the gains from the wider patch. The difference might be small enough to be negligible, but something to consider (I realize the A/S 3+ selections wider than 285 are minimal for 19" wheels). Since the length of the contact patch gets multiplied by the much bigger width, small changes in contact patch length has a larger affect on contact patch area compared to a similar change in the width. On top of that, the smaller dia. tire will also increase your torque at the rear wheels, making traction more limited.

That said - they do sell Hellcats w/ all seasons. They aren't exactly known for hooking up (even w/ summer tires).

I see people on here all the time with superchargers w/ Nittos or other summer performance tires talking about how they can't hook up below 70 mph. What's the point of 750 rwhp if it can not be used at sane speeds?

Tire compound will matter more than width or contact patch,which is why all seasons just won't cut it.

Suspension mods and ambient temp play a huge role in hooking, but like I said up there I can put down all 830whp in 2nd gear with NT555RII's and a bunch of suspension work.

 

[Bluemustang]

Well I didn't know, now I do ​

Hey if we all learn something new everyday, we'll be in good shape!

 

[shogun32]

If you think FI is pointless on the street, you never had proper tires. I can put down all 830whp I have in 2nd gear.

I can't keep my license and use all of the 430HP I have now. QED, more is (point)less.

 

[Frrst]

One thing to consider: tire width isn't everything - tire height also affects contact patch size. A 285/35 has a smaller dia. than a 275/40. While the 285 is about 1/2" wider, the contact patch from front to back will be slightly shorter, offsetting some of the gains from the wider patch. The difference might be small enough to be negligible, but something to consider (I realize the A/S 3+ selections wider than 285 are minimal for 19" wheels). Since the length of the contact patch gets multiplied by the much bigger width, small changes in contact patch length has a larger affect on contact patch area compared to a similar change in the width. On top of that, the smaller dia. tire will also increase your torque at the rear wheels, making traction more limited.

That said - they do sell Hellcats w/ all seasons. They aren't exactly known for hooking up (even w/ summer tires).

I see people on here all the time with superchargers w/ Nittos or other summer performance tires talking about how they can't hook up below 70 mph. What's the point of 750 rwhp if it can not be used at sane speeds?

I agree with your comment about what's the point. Looking at Dyno vids from various sources, I know take em with a grain of salt, looks like I'll be at 630 rwhp.

Until I do more research and find something better, looks like I'll go with 285/35r19 PS4S's on 19x10 ET40s until about mid October, then throw some all seasons on my stock PP1 wheels once it starts getting cold.

 

[Frrst]

I can't keep my license and use all of the 430HP I have now. QED, more is (point)less.

Radar detector

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Firstly, let me start by saying I've spent a week trying to find a specific answer for my question with no luck surfing forums.

Secondly: I have a 2020 performance pack 1 automatic GT with magneride, I am considering a Roush phase 2 supercharger, 750 hp, and going to Apex EC-7 19x10 wheels w/ 285/35r19 Michelin sport 3+ a/s tires all around (unless someone has a better idea). I live in Oklahoma, the weather rain wise is volatile, and it gets cold here, so summer slicks are pretty much out (or relegated to a second set on the stock pp1 wheels, which I'm not a huge fan of the staggered setup. Buying two additional wheel/tire sets is too far.). Use of the car is a daily driver but I've always wanted something supercharged. With the frequency of thunderstorms here for pretty close to half the year, shitty wet handling summer tires seems like a super bad idea.

My question is: are the Michelin a/s sports even doable with that much hp? Like am I going to have to do half throttle launches to not fishtail all over the place?
Should I look at a lower hp SC, or is it basically don't bother with a blower if you're going to run a/s?

Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks for anyone who takes the time to respond.

I don't have any experience with FI. Opinions seems to vary wildly. Some guidance would be appreciated

I LOVE the Michelin A/S 3+ for my all-season tires. They are much better than the crummy P-Zeroes that came on the car in all temperatures, and you don't need to worry about the cold. I've tried them in <35 deg, hot summer, and on the track (but I wouldn't do track again with them...that was an experiment). Mine are 255/40/19f and 275/40/19r (the stock Perf Pack setup). For HPDE track I run 275/35/19f and 305/35/19r Pilot Super Sports. My brother-in-law just scrapped his PZ's for Pilot Sport 4S's and loves them. I would have gotten 4S's instead of the PSS, but the fitment for what I want to do is a little better with the PSS.

I will say, though, that with that kind of HP you probably won't keep the 3+s down. 750HP is a shitload of power that, IMHO, many people can't handle. I can break the 3+ loose if I want to, and I'm at about 470BHP. You throw down > 550BHP on any all-seasons and I would expect some pretty sloppy handling under spirited driving, but I've not driven them with that kind of HP. My buddy had a 2007 GT500 that he cammed and pullied up. When he put his foot in it he was all over the place. He was running Nitto NT05s (probably 305 or 315/30/19 in rear). I think he had about 650 HP if I remember right. He traded it in on a GT350 and never looked back. But he decided road track was what he wanted more than straight-line performance.

I honestly think I need more skill on track before I get more power than what I've got. The advice I get from experienced trackers / driving instructors is, without fail: 1) more track time; 2) seats (Corbeau, Recaro, Sparco) to keep you in place which helps develop your skill and input accuracy, and 3) appropriate tires. They don't want you to spend any money on go-fast parts until you've done those 3 things. We have an obligation to the Mustang community to stay out of YouTube videos of Cars and Coffee departures...I'm leaving that to the Camaro guys. ;-)

Ultimately, it depends on what you want to do with that power. Drag strip? Get the blower with some drag tires and wheels to swap out. Look cool at meet and greets? Just get the blower and forget about it. Road track? Skip the blower and get good tires and practice, practice, practice.

Just my 2 cents. But probably the best advice....find experienced people in the application you are after and ask lots of questions from them. E.g. If you want to drag...hang out at the strip and ask the driving instructors. They have seen all the mistakes, broken axles, broken-loose tires, etc. We're all happy to offer advice in these threads but most of us are not experts.

 

[Frrst]

With all seasons, you can't floor it at speed either. With summer tires, you can gradually press it to the floor. With DRs you can drop it to the floor. With my MPSS before my suspension mods and on a cooler day, even dropping the pedal at 60 would fishtail. Ease into it though and they'd be alright. DRs are really the way to go though. It took me a long time to finally move from the MPSS to DRs and I seriously regret not doing it sooner.



If you think FI is pointless on the street, you never had proper tires. I can put down all 830whp I have in 2nd gear.



Tire compound will matter more than width or contact patch,which is why all seasons just won't cut it.

Suspension mods and ambient temp play a huge role in hooking, but like I said up there I can put down all 830whp in 2nd gear with NT555RII's and a bunch of suspension work.

I put in half of steedas stop the hop kit already, what else should I do in the rear? Still waiting on the IRS brace to come in and then I'll put it on with the toe links I didn't get around to.

I also bought the spherical bearings for the rear lower control arm but man do I not wanna redo all I've already done. Should've read all the directions before I started lol

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

My take on the Michelins all seasons: I have the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ for my winter tires in the factory PP1 tire sizes (2018 GT Premium w/ PP1, A10, and MagneRide). I have done some curvy mountain road driving with them and they did really well. Granted, I wasn't pushing it very hard, but they certainly had enough grip to take twists much faster than the posted speed limits without breaking a sweat. They are great performance all season tires IMO.

For what it's worth regarding traction: when my car was bone stock w/ the A/S 3+ I laid down multiple sub 4 sec 0-60 runs. Best time when bone stock on the A/S 3+ is 3.80 seconds. After I did the bolt ons, I made one single attempt, and achieved 3.78 seconds. That launch wasn't as good as the 3.80 seconds launch, otherwise it would have been quicker as the car is consistently 0.06+ seconds quicker each 10 mph segment below 70 mph when compared to stock (and that was before I changed to much lighter wheels).

 

[m3incorp]

I assure you it can be used at sane speeds. If they couldn't hook below 70 mph, they would never leave a stop light. It's all about how hard you get into the throttle at those lower speeds. I'd say drive one with that kind of horsepower or ride in one and then you would most likely see what the point is. Not knocking you, but as they say don't knock it until you try it.

I see people on here all the time with superchargers w/ Nittos or other summer performance tires talking about how they can't hook up below 70 mph. What's the point of 750 rwhp if it can not be used at sane speeds?

 

[m3incorp]

Vertical links and camber plates if you don't already have them.

I put in half of steedas stop the hop kit already, what else should I do in the rear? Still waiting on the IRS brace to come in and then I'll put it on with the toe links I didn't get around to.

I also bought the spherical bearings for the rear lower control arm but man do I not wanna redo all I've already done. Should've read all the directions before I started lol

 

[Frrst]

Vertical links and camber plates if you don't already have them.

Yeah I did the verticle links. Do I need camber plates if I'm doing the direct fitment setup of squared 19x10 285/35zr19s and NOT lowering?

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Yeah I did the verticle links. Do I need camber plates if I'm doing the direct fitment setup of squared 19x10 285/35zr19s and NOT lowering?

No.

 

[m3incorp]

Nope, if you do not plan to lower.

Yeah I did the verticle links. Do I need camber plates if I'm doing the direct fitment setup of squared 19x10 285/35zr19s and NOT lowering?

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Lots of people don't like using spacers, even thin ones. 10" with +35 fits excellent on all four corners.+40 fits well also.

My SVE R350 are 19x10 +35 all around. I think it looks perfect on the front. If I could customize I would probably use 19x10 +38 or 40 on the back so the lower portion of the tires are slightly closer to the body, but +35 does look good and more aggressive than the stock PP1 wheels, no doubt.

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