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alingment after lowering

Whitewalkers550

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first yes i have searched but am still curious if this would be good for my use, i will be daily driving it with occasional track use and spirited driving on curvy back roads. i just did the frpp shock and struts with sp083 and lca and kuckle toe bearing and front radius arm bearing and other stuff to compliment it. i found these numbers in an older thread and just wondering if it looks good for what i am wanting

Front:
-1.5-1.7 camber, 7 deg caster
0.00-0.05 deg toe per side, steer ahead 0.00

Rear:
-1.4-1.6 camber
0.10-0.12 deg toe per side, thrust angle 0.00
 

db252

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Those numbers are fine. You’ll need camber/caster plates up front as there is no stock adjustability. There is factory adjustment for the rear albeit a small amount but I suspect you should reach those numbers. Toe adjustment will be a non issue front/rear.
 

Whitewalkers550

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ok awesome and yes i do have steeda camber plates as well, dunno how i forgot to mention that haha
 

NightmareMoon

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If you have camber plates, shoot for a but more front camber. 2.0 degrees or so with 1.5 in the rear should drive well. The tire wear is a little worst on the street but not much and its a better alignment for a handling setup.
 

NightmareMoon

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Clock the bushings if you haven’t when the car gets on the alignment rack. Guessing you haven’t done that step yet, its an important one.
 

Whitewalkers550

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ok ill shoot for more camber then, i did get the steeda hole saw to open up my strut tower a bit more too, also i have no more bushings left other than the ones in the vertical links everything has been swapped to bearings
 

NavsENG

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I ran my car with about 2 degrees on r888r's. Next event I am trying to get 2.5-3 on camber. These cars lose a lot of camber as the wheels are turned so in my opinion with sticky tires camber will help. May lose some braking performance but its a trade off. I run around 1.7-2 on the street
 

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Norm Peterson

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ok ill shoot for more camber then, i did get the steeda hole saw to open up my strut tower a bit more too, also i have no more bushings left other than the ones in the vertical links everything has been swapped to bearings
FWIW, an all-bearing suspension would not need cambers to be set as far negative as a suspension that still includes all or most of its OE bushings. You wouldn't be compensating for as much compliance camber [loss].


Norm
 

kz

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ok ill shoot for more camber then, i did get the steeda hole saw to open up my strut tower a bit more too, also i have no more bushings left other than the ones in the vertical links everything has been swapped to bearings
There really isn't any need to hack the car up - I have -3.3 front camber with steeda plates and a room to move struts in more...
 

Whitewalkers550

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FWIW, an all-bearing suspension would not need cambers to be set as far negative as a suspension that still includes all or most of its OE bushings. You wouldn't be compensating for as much compliance camber [loss].


Norm
so would -1.7 to -2 be decent?
 

Norm Peterson

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You'd have to try it and see. But I don't think that -2° up front would be all that excessive for street duty as long as you tend to push it in the corners generally so I don't think you'd have to go less than that. I think it'd be enough for occasional intermediate-ish level HPDE track duty.

Setting rear camber a little less negative than front camber tends to dial out a little of the factory understeer. Maybe -1.5° or so back there.


Norm
 

Whitewalkers550

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Well here’s how it came out and I absolutely looove how it feels thanks for all the help!

D5EFE4CB-059D-4A6C-AF89-DCB19A746B01.jpeg


5FBEB0FD-AF7F-42C5-B916-60D03DC9D702.jpeg
 

NightmareMoon

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Yeah looks like a good alignment, have fun with it!
 

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