Does this alingment look correct?

[Zoso]

I just finished installing BMR minimum drop performance springs on the factory PP1 dampers. I had the local ford service center clock bushings and do 4 wheel alingment. I have a week to bring it back for any adjustments/concerns I might have. Everything looks "close enough" to me. I'm asking for the opinion of those of you with more knowledge than I, is there anything you would want them to change if this was your car? It is a 2018 PP1 car if that matters. Thank you all for any advise you may offer. View attachment 457542

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[shogun32]

rear toe should be at least 0.1 on both sides (or possibly more) and rear camber generally should be 0.5 less than front.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

It’s a good thing you checked-in.

Camber is decent enough, but your rear toe is scary off. As above stated, 0.1 toe-in at least for the rears. 0.12 preferred imo. Anything less can cause serious instabilty.

Front toe is generally 0.00 towards a touch of toe-in (0.05/0.06)—symmetry between the two is key. Thrust angle needs to be 0.00 flat.

 

[Zoso]

Thank you for your input guys. Looks like I need to get it back in and have them adjust the rear right to .01+ toe or better, to bring back total toe into spec.

 

[shogun32]

Looks like I need to get it back in and have them adjust the rear right to .01+ toe or better, to bring back total toe into spec.

uhh, read your sheet again.

 

[Zoso]

uhh, read your sheet again.

Thanks again for the help. Alingment settings and how to tweak them for desired handling characteristics, is all new to me. I am trying to learn more about this. In the past I just figured I was good to go if they handed me a sheet with all green.

If I'm understanding this correctly, rear toe set to .1+ or .12+ for both sides would be ideal. But if the dealer pushes back about putting it back on the rack, I should be able to at least get them to adjust the right rear to bring total rear toe back into their .03+ - .43+ "specified range". Would .1+ on right rear and .04+ still on left rear be worse than what I have now?

One more question, does the factory rear toe adjustment have plenty of range? Is there any chance I might be at its limits, need an aftermarket part with greater adjustability?

 

[AlbertD]

Roadway was spot on with his response. If the dealer is not willing to get you there, then I would recommend going to another shop that is. Being in the green is fine for a daily commuter non-sports vehicle, but for a car that sees some form of performance driving... can lead to negative handling effects. The factory hardware is perfectly capable to get to the proposed alignment settings.

 

[Zoso]

Roadway was spot on with his response. If the dealer is not willing to get you there, then I would recommend going to another shop that is. Being in the green is fine for a daily commuter non-sports vehicle, but for a car that sees some form of performance driving... can lead to negative handling effects. The factory hardware is perfectly capable to get to the proposed alignment settings.

Good to know. I'll insist they put both rears as close to .11+ toe as they can. If they want to charge more, I'll just pay it. I need to have confidence the car will perform they way I expect it to. The peace of mind that things are set to ideal settings is worth it to me. If I end up being charged again for a "custom" alingment....is there anything else you would tweak other than rear toe?

 

[AlbertD]

front toe should be either zero (performance oriented) or .02-.03 toe in (street manners). The way it is now, toe out, the car will feel more darty especially at higher speeds. The important thing is for both sides to be symmetrical.

Ideally I would prefer to see less rear camber than what you have, perhaps 1.3-1.5, Your current setting is what I would use for a track car. Considering how hard it is to adjust that and if the dealership is already having issues aligning the car... better to leave it as is .

 

[Zoso]

front toe should be either zero (performance oriented) or .02-.03 toe in (street manners). The way it is now, toe out, the car will feel more darty especially at higher speeds. The important thing is for both sides to be symmetrical.

Ideally I would prefer to see less rear camber than what you have, perhaps 1.3-1.5, Your current setting is what I would use for a track car. Considering how hard it is to adjust that and if the dealership is already having issues aligning the car... better to leave it as is .

Ok. Thank you all for the Information. I'm so glad I asked.

 

[Zoso]

So the car went back on the rack today. The good news is, my toe is where it should be. Bad news is they charged me for "half" an alingment.

The rear was out of spec so they didnt charge there. But, the front was in fords specs and I requested a change, so the fee. I can live with that. I feel that's fair, since I didnt specify I wanted settings tighter than " in the green" when I dropped it off.

They looked at me like I was crazy when I instisted the rear camber was adjustable from the factory. So I left it as is. Most of fords specs call for a little more rear camber for some reason, so it shouldn't be to bad. And I worried it would end up unbalance from left to right if they messed with it.

Ill probably be replacing the RLCA bearings, and going with an aftermarket stiffer lowering spring, shock and strut package when these oem dampers are shot. I'll be sure the camber has a slight front bias then.

I wanted to thank everyone here who helped me with this. I learned alot, and now know what to request the next time I need an alingment.

 

[Bluemustang]

Much better! And good thinking on having a little more front bias to the camber. It helps to reduce understeer. I've done it all three ways: more rear, less front like the Ford "Track" specs, same camber front and rear, and finally, more front and less rear. With the latter the car seems more "lively". Do not exceed -2 rear. Even for track applications there is no need to exceed that with the modern multi link rear end. I got some feedback from Vorshlag's tech on this. I would not personally exceed -2.5 front for street driving as that seems to be the very upper end of what you want. Currently I am running -2.2 front, -1.7 rear and 255/40R19 BFG Sport Comp 2 A/S and it tramlines more than most would want - more than I want, but the extra front camber is warranted if you're attacking corners aggressively.

 

[Bluemustang]

@Zoso how does it feel?

 

[Zoso]

@Zoso how does it feel?

I haven't had a chance to push it much in the turns. It reacts quickly to steering inputs, but also doesnt seem to "hunt" or "wonder" to much on the freeway. Hopefully that doesnt change much when I switch to the 285 square summer tire setup. Sometimes I miss the immediate turn in my focus st had. But I knew that was one area i would be giving up moving to this platform.

Overall I'm very pleased with this setup for now. I'll switch to stiffer sways, dampers, springs at some point in the future. At that time I will look into fine tuning settings to see if anything can be done to make the car not "feel so big" during fast left right transitions and hard cornering. But, this is probably just the nature of a 3700 plus pound car.

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