Active exhaust options for 2016 GT

[raptor17GT]

Thanks for that. I was hoping to go with a H pipe as I didn’t want a raspy exhaust. The x-force doesn’t seem to come with an o-t

That sounds great !! now to find one here in Ireland where there’s hardly any mustangs I’ll be in Wales in a couple of weeks I could also have a look there but don’t think it’ll fit in the boot of a mustang
That give me some hope that it can be done without spending a fortune like you said 3k.
I can then get an H pipe too.
did you do a writeup or photos of how you got it to work with the AliExpress valve ? Presume it’s not rocket science.

It's only raspy sounding on a cold start, ie after sitting overnight but within a few minutes it's a nice rumble. Tbh I almost always start in quiet mode anyway so it's a mute point for me. I'm sure xforce used to do an axle back version so you could easily fit an X or H pipe but obv a 2nd hand OEM setup should be a lot cheaper and then just get the switch control. I'm sure I saw someone replace the remotes with a rocker switch so no fob battery / connection issues.

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[JaybeM5]

It's only raspy sounding on a cold start, ie after sitting overnight but within a few minutes it's a nice rumble. Tbh I almost always start in quiet mode anyway so it's a mute point for me. I'm sure xforce used to do an axle back version so you could easily fit an X or H pipe but obv a 2nd hand OEM setup should be a lot cheaper and then just get the switch control. I'm sure I saw someone replace the remotes with a rocker switch so no fob battery / connection issues.

I contacted X-force and they said they don’t do an exhaust with a H pipe and only do cat back with an X pipe.
Anyone have a Corsa sport with H pipe ?

 

[Liam O]

Thanks for that. I was hoping to go with a H pipe as I didn’t want a raspy exhaust. The x-force doesn’t seem to come with an o-t

That sounds great !! now to find one here in Ireland where there’s hardly any mustangs I’ll be in Wales in a couple of weeks I could also have a look there but don’t think it’ll fit in the boot of a mustang
That give me some hope that it can be done without spending a fortune like you said 3k.
I can then get an H pipe too.
did you do a writeup or photos of how you got it to work with the AliExpress valve ? Presume it’s not rocket science.

I haven't done a writeup but they were dead easy to set up. Literally just have it plugged into the power outlet under the armrest, cable then is just tucked under the carpet, under the rear seats into the boot. The controller box is just mounted in the spare wheel well and then the two cables to the motors run through a rubber grommet in the boot. I was lucky that the used exhaust i purchased still had the motors attached and the springs that sit between the motors and the exhaust valve. You can purchase the springs from Ford but I think they are £40 each!! Part number is JR3Z-9449-A. I'll try and get some pictures of the setup and do a better writeup at some point!

 

[JaybeM5]

I haven't done a writeup but they were dead easy to set up. Literally just have it plugged into the power outlet under the armrest, cable then is just tucked under the carpet, under the rear seats into the boot. The controller box is just mounted in the spare wheel well and then the two cables to the motors run through a rubber grommet in the boot. I was lucky that the used exhaust i purchased still had the motors attached and the springs that sit between the motors and the exhaust valve. You can purchase the springs from Ford but I think they are £40 each!! Part number is JR3Z-9449-A. I'll try and get some pictures of the setup and do a better writeup at some point!

Sounds good. There’s only one exhaust on eBay and it’s for £950 but I’d have to pay £305 duty on it plus £108 postage. I’d nearly buy a new one for that.
Not easily to find a quad active exhaust with an H pipe. Every exhaust I seem to find is sold with an X Pipe. I’m maybe thinking of forgetting about the active exhaust and buying a Corsa sport with H pipe but again it’s not easy.
I can find an axle back one but how do I make up the rest of the exhaust to the H pipe?
Use part of the existing exhaust ?
I didn’t want to have to cut the exhaust if possible. I’d rather a cat back.
I presume any 2018+ aftermarket exhaust will fit but the reason they don’t advertise them to fit the 2015-17 model is the need to change the rear valance ? Plus the need to wire the active part if going that route.

 

[MarkM]

Sounds good. There’s only one exhaust on eBay and it’s for £950 but I’d have to pay £305 duty on it plus £108 postage. I’d nearly buy a new one for that.
Not easily to find a quad active exhaust with an H pipe. Every exhaust I seem to find is sold with an X Pipe. I’m maybe thinking of forgetting about the active exhaust and buying a Corsa sport with H pipe but again it’s not easy.
I can find an axle back one but how do I make up the rest of the exhaust to the H pipe?
Use part of the existing exhaust ?
I didn’t want to have to cut the exhaust if possible. I’d rather a cat back.
I presume any 2018+ aftermarket exhaust will fit but the reason they don’t advertise them to fit the 2015-17 model is the need to change the rear valance ? Plus the need to wire the active part if going that route.

Yes you use the original, you have to cut it to fit an axle back anyway, no joints back there.

 

[RoryS550]

Sounds good. There’s only one exhaust on eBay and it’s for £950 but I’d have to pay £305 duty on it plus £108 postage. I’d nearly buy a new one for that.
Not easily to find a quad active exhaust with an H pipe. Every exhaust I seem to find is sold with an X Pipe. I’m maybe thinking of forgetting about the active exhaust and buying a Corsa sport with H pipe but again it’s not easy.
I can find an axle back one but how do I make up the rest of the exhaust to the H pipe?
Use part of the existing exhaust ?
I didn’t want to have to cut the exhaust if possible. I’d rather a cat back.
I presume any 2018+ aftermarket exhaust will fit but the reason they don’t advertise them to fit the 2015-17 model is the need to change the rear valance ? Plus the need to wire the active part if going that route.

Hi, I'm the one Liam mentioned in his post with the Borla S-Types. Mine uses the same valve motors and controller as his along with the springs he mentioned (they're bloody expensive for what they are but necessary to operate the valves), but I have 2018+ axle-backs which required some bending of the hangers to fit with the MP Concepts diffuser. The Borla tips are rather large compared to Liam's Bullitt system and I probably spent more time adjusting it by small amounts than actually cutting the stock exhaust up. Mine also has an H-pipe (again cutting the stock exhaust up to fit that) and ARH catted headers. With the valves closed the noise really isn't that bad, however open it's incredibly f***ing loud. If you're that worried about slicing up the stock exhaust, Borla do sell complete 2018+ catbacks and the X-pipes in those can be swapped for a silencer that Borla sell separately that features an internal H-pipe, however that silencer will only fit the catbacks due to being 3inch outlets and isn't designed to be fitted separately. Regardless of what you go for, valved catbacks and axle-backs are significantly more expensive than non-valved, but the flexibility of volume does help during startups at home with keeping the neighbours peaceful

 

[JaybeM5]

Hi, I'm the one Liam mentioned in his post with the Borla S-Types. Mine uses the same valve motors and controller as his along with the springs he mentioned (they're bloody expensive for what they are but necessary to operate the valves), but I have 2018+ axle-backs which required some bending of the hangers to fit with the MP Concepts diffuser. The Borla tips are rather large compared to Liam's Bullitt system and I probably spent more time adjusting it by small amounts than actually cutting the stock exhaust up. Mine also has an H-pipe (again cutting the stock exhaust up to fit that) and ARH catted headers. With the valves closed the noise really isn't that bad, however open it's incredibly f***ing loud. If you're that worried about slicing up the stock exhaust, Borla do sell complete 2018+ catbacks and the X-pipes in those can be swapped for a silencer that Borla sell separately that features an internal H-pipe, however that silencer will only fit the catbacks due to being 3inch outlets and isn't designed to be fitted separately. Regardless of what you go for, valved catbacks and axle-backs are significantly more expensive than non-valved, but the flexibility of volume does help during startups at home with keeping the neighbours peaceful

Thanks for that. I have to try get an exhaust somewhere in Europe as I’ll get caught for duty if I buy in the UK. I really would like an active exhaust but am surprised by the cost of them. It’s hard to justify spending 3k and then have to buy a rear diffuser too. All the cat backs I’m looking at seem to only come with X pipes. If I buy an axle back, and an H pipe am I left with smaller connecting pipes ? Like 2.5 inch to 3 inch ?

 

[RoryS550]

Thanks for that. I have to try get an exhaust somewhere in Europe as I’ll get caught for duty if I buy in the UK. I really would like an active exhaust but am surprised by the cost of them. It’s hard to justify spending 3k and then have to buy a rear diffuser too. All the cat backs I’m looking at seem to only come with X pipes. If I buy an axle back, and an H pipe am I left with smaller connecting pipes ? Like 2.5 inch to 3 inch ?

If you buy an H-pipe and axle-backs they're designed to replace sections of the stock system so will just slip onto the remaining bits of that with their supplied clamps after those sections have been cut out. They're really easy to do with a saw and some patience at getting things lined up. FYI I think my system (axle-backs, H-pipe, rear diffuser and the full valve controlling setup) came to about £2.3k, although add headers and that's another £3k on top including fitting and tuning. Use the code SIMPLY at Nemesis and you'll get 5% off your order. Doesn't sound like much but it's better than nothing and easily the cheapest way of buying them here, I did look at going through CJPP or any other of the American retailers and once you add duty and shipping the cost goes through the roof to the point it isn't worth the hassle

 

[JaybeM5]

Anyone have a Cobra exhaust or know anything about them ?
https://cobrasport.com/collections/...ft-3-inch-valved-cat-back-performance-exhaust

 

[WD Pro]

Anyone have a Cobra exhaust or know anything about them ?
https://cobrasport.com/collections/...ft-3-inch-valved-cat-back-performance-exhaust

I know nothing about them, but I like the look of it - the fabrication looks nice and the tailpipe options are great

WD

 

[JaybeM5]

I know nothing about them, but I like the look of it - the fabrication looks nice and the tailpipe options are great

WD

They do look nice and sound good too. I’d have to find some active motors either on AliExpress or eBay

 

[WD Pro]

I’m sure I read that there is a compatible BMW actuator that’s much cheaper and easier to source than the Mustang version - I have some good photos of the Mustang version if you think they might help you source something

WD

 

[JaybeM5]

I’m sure I read that there is a compatible BMW actuator that’s much cheaper and easier to source than the Mustang version - I have some good photos of the Mustang version if you think they might help you source something

WD

Sure that would be brilliant thank you. Must research the bmw ones see what I can find. Thanks for that

 

[WD Pro]

Have a look at this post :

Answering my own question and although it's for a GT, I guess it may be a very similar procedure for a 500

Unlike the aftermarket active exhausts, the GT AE seems to hold the valves under tension, so once they are released it's tricky to get them lined up with the spring again (maybe this is Fords method to combat valve noise ?).

There is a procedure to reseat the springs :

But for my own reasons this just wasn't practical - I need the exhaust to be perfect when it goes back on, without having to drop it a little and re-secure the actuators after the seating / reset process.

So after unsuccessfully messing around with the spring pre mounted on the actuator, here's the only way I found I could do it :

1) Start by recording how your actuators and springs were when they were first removed - the GT's aren't handed :

2) Once everything has been stripped and cleaned and your ready for reassembly, make sure the actuator slides on and off it's mounting studs very easily. Re align the studs if needed. Use two M6 nuts and a deep socket to provide leverage without damaging the threads :

3) Ensure the valve is fully turned in the direction to line up with the actuator - in the case of the GT they were fully open :

4) Make sure the exhaust is level, and then carefully position the spring on the top of the valve :

5) Without disturbing the spring, carefully lower the actuator so it just rests on the spring :

6) Note I am working with the cut out of the actuator housing towards me, that's so I can peep under and see the actuator shaft and spring is 'almost' aligned. From 6 o clock :

And from four o clock :

7) If all looks OK, push the actuator down and wiggle / twist it a little it on its studs whilst maintaining downwards pressure. If you hear a fairly loud snap, then the spring has most likely seated in the actuator shaft.

8) Don't trust it the first time, open it back up and check its correct. Do it a few times to get a feel what it's like when it correctly seats.

The first indication that it has seated correctly, will be that the actuator goes tight on its studs as it's now fighting the spring a little - there will be some resistance to lift it of it's studs.

The second indication is that the spring is fully located in the actuator shaft when you lift it off :

9) Once you are confident you can do it right every time, bolt it down to stay (I know I have missed the little bracket from the inboard nut, it's paint is hardening) :

10) As a final check, fist your exhaust deep enough to twiddle the flap. In the case of the GT it's fully open, rock solid one way (it's up against it's stops), but it can be moved with firm spring resistance the other way - instantly returning to it's home position when you remove pressure on the butterfly.

Just as a heads up and I know I'm not alone with this, the inserts around the bolt holes in the plastic actuator body (to stop it getting overtightened) seem to corrode excessively and very easily (maybe a reaction to all the stainless in that area ?). I covered the bottom bit of the stud, the insert and all mating faces with high temp grease before tightening everything down.

Hope that helps and that it's also useful for the 500 setup

WD

And some other random pictures :

WD

 

[JaybeM5]

Have a look at this post :



And some other random pictures :

WD

That’s brilliant thank you I was just reading up about them. Where do I get the springs to fit the valves I presume they don’t come with the actuators and aren’t compatible between bmw and Ford ?
Also it’s seems hard to get the wiring harness with the bmw actuators so not sure if I can buy the cables with plug separately ?

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