9 Speaker Pioneer Upgrade/Thoughts

[SS2SLOW]

After a lot of research, I think I have narrowed down the speakers that I want to replace my factory speakers with. I would like to keep the factory deck and amp.

Front 6.5"/Tweeters-Pioneer TS-A652C-https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA652C/Pioneer-TS-A652C.html?avf=Y
Dash/Doors 3.5"-Pioneer TS-A878-https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_806_Pioneer-TS-A878.html
Rear 6.5"-Pioneer TS-A1670F-https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63998_Pioneer-TS-A1675S-Ships-as-TS-A1670F.html

I'm am thinking the Pioneers because the have a very wide frequency range, 34-49k Hz, so should produce decent bass. Inline crossovers, easier to install don't have to install a bulky crossover and can use the factory wiring. My only concern is the rear speakers. The Pioneer TS-A1670F have a very tall tweeter and not sure they will fit.

What do you guys think? Any thoughts, opinions, welcomed. Thank you.

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[Canoman]

My first reaction is that those are all 4 ohm impedance speakers, and not all of the factory speakers in the 9-speaker system w/ amplifier are 4 ohms. This can affect volume levels since the factory amp is designed to operate with different impedance. It can also affect the amplifier function, if you go in the wrong direction. I believe that it's typically ok to run higher-impedance speakers (this will lower the power output of the amplifier), but you can damage an amplifier by running a speaker with a lower impedance than the design specified.

Also, in my 2017 w/ 9-speaker system, everything I've read seems to point to bass being blocked from the front tweeters with a capacitor, but no bandpass crossover on the 3.5" speakers anywhere (doors/center). If you put those 3.5" in along with the tweeters in the A-pillars, you may end up with overbearing high-end. You could opt to deal with this by clipping one of the leads to the tweeters in the 3.5" speakers you put in the doors. Or, you could experiment with something like this on the midrange 3.5's: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-800-5-khz-band-pass-4-ohm-crossover--266-452

Theoretically, that would block frequencies lower than 800 Hz and higher than 5000 Hz from those midranges. However, it shows that this is a 4-ohm crossover. I'm not well-versed enough to know whether adding a crossover such as this is equivalent to wiring another speaker in series or parallel, thus changing the load on the amplifier. Maybe someone else can chime in on that. If so, it might be a nice tool for matching the impedance of the factory speakers. Hmm...

They actually have 4-ohm bandpass passive crossovers and 8-ohm: https://www.parts-express.com/cat/a...eca:matches(.,"P_Searchable","1")]&PortalID=1

Here's a post about impedance differences. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...t-2-ohm-3-5-door-speaker.120756/#post-2542130

 

[Chef jpd]

I'd say buy my sub box and speaker and add an amp for some thump.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/fs-shaker-pro-subwoofer.123707/

 

[SS2SLOW]

Does anyone know the factory ohm rating of each of the 9 speakers?

 

[FreedomPenguin]

I would love a list, but I think different models get diff ohms at certain speakers.

 

[Shane361]

I'd honestly spend a little more and get better speakers. I'm very happy with my 2 sets of JL Audio C3 Comps paired with a JL Audio 400 amp. I've paired that system with two 10" Sundown subs and a RF 1000D amp and a Audio Control LC7i. My Mustang has a 12" Sundown and a JL Audio 1000 amp but I have yet to do the mids/high/amp yet. I'll either stay with JL or go Hertz.

 

[SS2SLOW]

I spoke to a Crutchfield rep and they said 6.5"-4ohm, 3.5"-2ohm, and tweeter-8ohm. Can anyone confirm?

 

[ugstang17]

Same impedance or higher will be fine though there may be some loss of volume. Going lower in impedance (resistance) allows more current flow and therefore overworks the amplifier because impedance in not properly matched. E/R=I. So as resistance drops current flwo increases. When current increases I^2xR=P. Therefore more power output and more heat generated eventually burning up what was an optimally impedance matched circuit (though the design engineer has clearly no ear for sound quality),

I agree with reply #6. Invest a little more for a better quality speaker. Also as I have been reading up to change up my system at some point (HP comes first and foremost) many indicate to either run a higher impedance center dash channel speaker to soften mids if not eliminate the speaker altogether.

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