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Upgrade 9 speaker System

blakedanatural

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HelloAll,
I have read a lot of post about upgrading the 9 speaker non shaker system. I am now ready t o tackle the job myself with the help of you guys on the forum.
I installed the JL Audio Stealth Sub powered by the JL 500 Mono Amp. My question is can I replace the the factory amp with a aftermarket one in the same place? I want to replace the 3 speakers in the front door with Morel Maximos. If anyone has done this install will you please provide all the info you can on the install.What amp did you use or recommend to use and is it difficult to put the new amp at the old place under the kicker panel. Also what cables or connectors needed. I guess I m looking at a 2 channel amp to run the front speakers or do I get a 4 channel amp to run the 9 speakers.
Thank you in advance.
Blake
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mikes2017gt

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Hi Blake,

I happen to be installing a Morel Maximo Ultra 603 set right now. Here's my build thread.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mustang-system-2-0.147905/

You will need adapter plates for the mids and AFAIK, nobody sells them right now, you have to make your own. Can absolutely be done with nothing more than a jigsaw and a drill...will just take you more time.

As for replacing the stock amp in the factory location: You've got your work cut out for you. Definitely not a job for someone without some fabrication experience. Big difference b/t installing a single amp kit and wiring a sub vs. building your own wiring harnesses and mounting brackets. See this most excellent thread on installing a JL Audio 600/6 in the factory location.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/jl-audio-600-6-install.58862/

I've been installing my own car systems for 30+ years now but I'm relatively new to fabrication myself. @Racemaster has some serious fabrication skills. I would not attempt what he did...I ain't THAT good.

There's always a few different ways to achieve the same end result, but I would recommend NOT trying to replace the factory amp in the stock location. TBH, if you knew how to do that you'd have done it already. This isn't a good idea for a "first fabrication project".

Have you checked out the sticky Stereo Info/Wiring upgrades thead yet? Yes, it's huge and it goes back to 2015, but the info is highly relevant and would give you a good starting point to start asking yourself questions like "How far do I want to go with this?"

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/stereo-information-wiring-upgrades-etc.25501/

Honestly, a 2-amp wiring kit, two amps and the appropriate wiring harnesses/Molex plugs to interface with the factory wiring is all you need, but that's at a minimum if you want to replace the factory amp and get some real bass. You've already taken care of the bass part. :)

Hope this helps.
 

mikes2017gt

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You absolutely need to watch this video series. It's 5 parts and worth every minute. You'll get to see how to run wires, methodology behind why what wires go where, etc.

 

StangTime

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If you want to make your own adapters here is a design I made for my install (see PDF). Most aftermarket speakers are going to sit closer to the door panel if you use a Metra speaker adapter or even cutting up the OEM speaker to use the plastic ring. Plus, the plastic is not rigid enough and will flex when you attach a speaker to it with any kind of thin gasket. Make sure you do something to protect the driver from water dripping inside the door too.
Made mine out of 1/2" solid PVC sheet that I found on Amazon. Rigid, flat, and no warping:


Water shield:


Driver installed:


Foam seal to prevent bass from leaking into the door panel (a bit too thick, but compresses):


Here's an installer secret that is rarely done, is extremely cost effective (way cheaper than RCA interconnects), and also noise free: Use Cat5e STP cable for your signal runs back to the trunk. I can provide further info on how if you ask.

The space where the OEM amp is located is tight. I put my interface box in that location. I can't imagine cramming an amplifier in there.



Hope that helps you out. I spent basically the whole summer working on this damn audio system. But it kicks ass now even without subwoofers. (Work in progress)
 

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blakedanatural

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Wow this awesome. Yes I will be asking for more info. I am going to look for the pvc sheet on amazon. Did you use a dremel tool?
 
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blakedanatural

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Thank you everyone for the great info. I am going to review everyone comments and look at my skill set to see if I need a pro.
 

mikes2017gt

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@StangTime Did you CNC those rings? They look fantastic.
 

StangTime

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Matti777

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I've started a 9 speaker upgrade project too. Its been interesting figuring everything out. It can get technical quick if you want it to (DSPs, eq software, acoustics theory). I have most everything figured out after a lot of research here and at the diymobile audio forum. Everything is bought (budget build with some used components and it still cost $2500 Cdn...I shouldn't have add it up!) and I'm ready to start installing when the snow flies. I'm using StangTime's design to build an amp bypass harness/splitter box and the Five Start Car Stereo design for a Palight amp board


Sub amp JL JX500
Main amp JL RD400
DSP miniDSP 6x8
sub JL CS110LG-TW3
door speakers JL C3-650
tweeters SB Acoustics SB29 large format tweeters.
Sound deadening Noico and Kolossus Kno Knoise
All copper power cable
 
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Augy

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If you want to make your own adapters here is a design I made for my install (see PDF). Most aftermarket speakers are going to sit closer to the door panel if you use a Metra speaker adapter or even cutting up the OEM speaker to use the plastic ring. Plus, the plastic is not rigid enough and will flex when you attach a speaker to it with any kind of thin gasket. Make sure you do something to protect the driver from water dripping inside the door too.
Made mine out of 1/2" solid PVC sheet that I found on Amazon. Rigid, flat, and no warping:


....

Hope that helps you out. I spent basically the whole summer working on this damn audio system. But it kicks ass now even without subwoofers. (Work in progress)
Any chance you could share the DWG for this? I'd like to print a pair on a 3D printer (or try to). I tried searching to see if you already have shared it but had no luck.
 

StangTime

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I actually made a design better suited for 3D printing that includes a drip shield to protect the speaker magnet. The mounting holes are for a Hertz 6.5in midbass (may need to drill for your particular driver) and includes a channel on the back to route the wires behind the adapter ring. There are separate mirrored designs one for the left and one for the right side. I will send it via private message where you can download it from my google drive.
 

Augy

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I actually made a design better suited for 3D printing that includes a drip shield to protect the speaker magnet. The mounting holes are for a Hertz 6.5in midbass (may need to drill for your particular driver) and includes a channel on the back to route the wires behind the adapter ring. There are separate mirrored designs one for the left and one for the right side. I will send it via private message where you can download it from my google drive.
Printed off great, will let you know how they work when my speakers arrive this weekend.

IMG_3930.jpg
 

StangTime

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Printed off great, will let you know how they work when my speakers arrive this weekend.

IMG_3930.jpg
Looks good!
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