2019 B&O Subwoofer Install Help?

[gpierce]

Do you want to keep everything OEM with the right-side trunk location? You could consider getting an enclosure that goes behind the rear seat. Here is a half-width enclosure that allows the right rear seat to fold down and thus you can put in a long item (even folding down the passenger seat if necessary)

Unfortunately this is not an option for convertible owners, our seats don’t fold

Sponsored

 

[nathanks]

For anyone following along at home, the Dayton sub referenced in this thread does NOT fit the factory B&O box unless you use a spacer. The box isn't deep enough, and the magnet hits the bump in the bottom of the box. I was determined to file the speaker hole large enough to put it in, just to find out the magnet hits the bottom.

 

[gpierce]

For anyone following along at home, the Dayton sub referenced in this thread does NOT fit the factory B&O box unless you use a spacer. The box isn't deep enough, and the magnet hits the bump in the bottom of the box. I was determined to file the speaker hole large enough to put it in, just to find out the magnet hits the bottom.

That’s really unfortunate, sorry to hear that. In thinking about all this, most any 10” sub will probably fit with the gasket I put on mine. I made the mistake too not measuring the basket but I did measure the magnet depth. I thought maybe the only hang up would be the bump you mention but I thought that would be easy to clearance if needed. Since you already cut the hole bigger perhaps you can trim that bump out inside a bit.

 

[m3incorp]

That's one of the reasons I went with the JL Audio Subwoofer. Just a slight dremel on the the little slope pieces and it fits great.

For anyone following along at home, the Dayton sub referenced in this thread does NOT fit the factory B&O box unless you use a spacer. The box isn't deep enough, and the magnet hits the bump in the bottom of the box. I was determined to file the speaker hole large enough to put it in, just to find out the magnet hits the bottom.

 

[FreePenguin]

You can get a 1 inch spacer that goes on the ring area. Or whatever size. Same concept as wheels, it pushes it out further. I don’t know what they are called but I’ve seen them used before.

 

[m3incorp]

I'm still not happy with the bass after installing the JL Audio Subwoofer. I ordered a Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 mono amplifier and amp wiring kit. I'll pull the signal from the subwoofer wires that are already in the rear and see how the JL Audio subwoofer in the stock enclosure sounds with 300 watts at 4 ohms thrown at it, vs the 40-50 stock watts. If it does as I need it to do, I will leave it at that for the subwoofer; if not, then I have a Kicker Comp Loaded Enclosure with 12" Subwoofer, like I have in the Fusion that will do the job for bass. If I go that route, the enclosure won't take up too much space, but I will install it so that I can easily remove it when needed and plug back into the JL Audio subwoofer. It's a shame, but I imagine eventually I will install the Kenwood XR600-6DSP and replace all of the stock speakers from the B&O system; if only they would not have speakers throughout the car that have different ohms, especially the ones with the not so common 2 ohms..... makes me wonder what the engineer was thinking.

I guess this weekend, I'll start looking for how I want to run the power wire to the battery.

 

[gpierce]

I figure we all know that just putting a new speaker in the factory box would be better than stock but it would still be a major compromise using the factory amps to power it. Not to mention the box size is probably not right for whatever we choose to install.

What I'll do next for mine is use an AudioControl LC2i to process the signal to my amp and tap into the rear full range speakers rather than the factory sub output wires. That way I can send the frequency I want to to the sub and I have separate volume control via the LC2i. I've done the same thing in another Ford with good results.

 

[m3incorp]

Yes I agree with you completely. I was hoping though, as the premium audio in the VW does actually sound pretty good; plus I was hoping not to have to spend the money like I did for three of the other cars to have decent speakers.

I was thinking with the dsp in the B&O, that it only sent certain signals to those speakers in the rear deck. I guess I could be wrong. I have an extra LC2i laying around and if that is not the case, then I would use it also. I stopped by an audio shop today to ask a few questions and the first thing he said was he had no experience with the newer Mustangs and plus the guy was coughing like crazy, so I got the heck out of there.

I figure we all know that just putting a new speaker in the factory box would be better than stock but it would still be a major compromise using the factory amps to power it. Not to mention the box size is probably not right for whatever we choose to install.

What I'll do next for mine is use an AudioControl LC2i to process the signal to my amp and tap into the rear full range speakers rather than the factory sub output wires. That way I can send the frequency I want to to the sub and I have separate volume control via the LC2i. I've done the same thing in another Ford with good results.

 

[gpierce]

I was thinking with the dsp in the B&O, that it only sent certain signals to those speakers in the rear deck. I guess I could be wrong. I have an extra LC2i laying around and if that is not the case, then I would use it also. I stopped by an audio shop today to ask a few questions and the first thing he said was he had no experience with the newer Mustangs and plus the guy was coughing like crazy, so I got the heck out of there.

Yeah I forgot they have a DSP module. Certainly possible it is not passing the low frequencies to really any of the speakers. Would have to scope it out I guess to know for sure. Here's a 2019 diagram on the forum:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/attachments/2019_audio_diagrams-pdf.338069/

 

[gpierce]

And I thought I saw somewhere that there are some codes you can modify for the DSP using FORscan.

 

[gpierce]

I saw the forscan codes elsewhere, but this is a great thread. Gotta love audio engineers!!

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-i-improved-the-b-o-sound-quality-for-free.141052/

 

[Hellbound42101]

I didn’t see it posted anywhere so, the B&O sub is a Dual voice coil 8 ohm sub. I’m assuming that it that the amp parallels the two voice coils making a 4 ohm load for itself.
My question is if i have a dual 2 ohm sub wired in series (jumper from pos of one coil to neg of other coil) then the other + - run to amp. If ran that way i have a pos and neg left over? So do i take both pos from amp and run to my sub and same with both negs?

 

[gpierce]

I didn’t see it posted anywhere so, the B&O sub is a Dual voice coil 8 ohm sub. I’m assuming that it that the amp parallels the two voice coils making a 4 ohm load for itself.
My question is if i have a dual 2 ohm sub wired in series (jumper from pos of one coil to neg of other coil) then the other + - run to amp. If ran that way i have a pos and neg left over? So do i take both pos from amp and run to my sub and same with both negs?

I wouldn’t make that assumption about the stock amp. The diagram link above shows the connections to the dsp are separate but I don’t think we know what the electronics are doing. For a separate amp this is a very helpful article Also I don’t think you’ll be able to connect a dual 2ohm sub to the factory system. Probably not stable.

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-u...ice-Coil-DVC-Wiring-Tutorial?mobile_site=true

 

[nathanks]

I didn’t see it posted anywhere so, the B&O sub is a Dual voice coil 8 ohm sub. I’m assuming that it that the amp parallels the two voice coils making a 4 ohm load for itself.
My question is if i have a dual 2 ohm sub wired in series (jumper from pos of one coil to neg of other coil) then the other + - run to amp. If ran that way i have a pos and neg left over? So do i take both pos from amp and run to my sub and same with both negs?

The B&O is dual 4 ohm, not dual 8 ohm.

 

[GTP]

I didn’t see it posted anywhere so, the B&O sub is a Dual voice coil 8 ohm sub. I’m assuming that it that the amp parallels the two voice coils making a 4 ohm load for itself.
My question is if i have a dual 2 ohm sub wired in series (jumper from pos of one coil to neg of other coil) then the other + - run to amp. If ran that way i have a pos and neg left over? So do i take both pos from amp and run to my sub and same with both negs?

I authored the thread referenced in post #71 above. My testing showed that the subwoofer amplifier is stereo, and its two channels drives the two voice coil windings of the subwoofer, via two pairs of leads. Therefore you can swap in any dual voice coil woofer in place of the OEM one. No wiring changes are needed.

For reference, series connection for DVC driver is:
Amp+ to VC1+
VC1- to VC2+ (jumper wire)
VC2- to Amp-

Sponsored