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2019 B&O Subwoofer Install Help?

slaslo

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I would also like to know how to remove the trim ring. It does feel like it will break if pried off. I'm hoping to replace the sub speaker and the 3 1/2 speakers in the doors for the biggest bang.
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doph

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Trim ring is attached to grille assembly and does pry off. BTW speaker is a 4 ohm dual coil.
Thanks. So comes off (flat blade screwdriver?) without breaking pins, clips, etc.?
 

slaslo

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I used a 45 degree vinyl removal tool. Pried from the inside of the ring and slowly worked my way around, loosening a bit at a time until finally pops off one stud at a time. There are attachment posts next to each screw (6) that holds the grille/speaker to the enclosure. I don't see how it can be re-used as you will not find a speaker that the grille can be re-used and the trim ring attaches to the grille. That would be a shame, because it is such a clean look. Much nicer than the Shaker on my old 2017 GT. On my shaker, I replace with a Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8. Left the stock amp and it made just enough of a difference. Clear with some depth. Will probably go with Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-10 Punch P3S 10" 4-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer with matching grille if I cannot figure a way to use the stock grille/trim ring. Hope the pics help. Let me know what you are planning to do. Enclosed last pic of my old shaker sub with sub replacement so you can see what the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 speaker/grille looks like on it.
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doph

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I used a 45 degree vinyl removal tool. Pried from the inside of the ring and slowly worked my way around, loosening a bit at a time until finally pops off one stud at a time. There are attachment posts next to each screw (6) that holds the grille/speaker to the enclosure. I don't see how it can be re-used as you will not find a speaker that the grille can be re-used and the trim ring attaches to the grille. That would be a shame, because it is such a clean look. Much nicer than the Shaker on my old 2017 GT. On my shaker, I replace with a Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8. Left the stock amp and it made just enough of a difference. Clear with some depth. Will probably go with Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-10 Punch P3S 10" 4-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer with matching grille if I cannot figure a way to use the stock grille/trim ring. Hope the pics help. Let me know what you are planning to do. Enclosed last pic of my old shaker sub with sub replacement so you can see what the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 speaker/grille looks like on it.
IMG_0062.jpg
IMG_0063.jpg
IMG_0064.jpg
IMG_0035.jpg
Thanks, pictures much appreciated!

I think mine was on a little tighter (or more likely I just didn't have your patience! :blush:). Had a similar plastic tool, but even trying it all around it never would budge till i leaned on it hard enough that the tip of one half of the split pins broke off (almost all of them).

No biggie, if I decide to just keep it stock I'm pretty sure I can put it back on with a judicious amount of glue.

Not sure what I want to do yet; I'm an old ex-car stereo guy so just changing the woofer may not be enough. Will report back if I change anything.

Thanks again!
 

Gregs24

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I broke a few of mine getting the trim ring off as well but it stays on OK afterwards.

I added a polyfill type substance (hollow fibre from an old pillow) to the enclosure and it has tightened up the base considerably.
 

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I ended up replacing mine with the Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-10 Punch P3S 10" 4-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer with matching grille, I would not suggest it to anyone else because I spent hours and hours making it fit correctly. I am very happy with the sound and the fact that I was able to reuse the trim ring, The trim ring is not completely flush but close enough to make me happy. It was a bitch....
 

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I ended up replacing mine with the Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-10 Punch P3S 10" 4-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer with matching grille, I would not suggest it to anyone else because I spent hours and hours making it fit correctly. I am very happy with the sound and the fact that I was able to reuse the trim ring, The trim ring is not completely flush but close enough to make me happy. It was a bitch....
Out of curiosity, what were the difficulties in making it fit?
 

slaslo

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I had to use a dremel to remove a lot of plastic so the speaker would slide all the way in. Paper thin in a couple of spots. I then had to dremel the trim ring to make it flat and then dremel a groove all the way around the trim ring to account for the thickness of the grill edge.The trim ring that came with the speaker could not be used because the diameter made it impossible to fit without completely destroying the enclosure. It worked out for me, but if I had to do it again, I would pick another speaker.
 

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Do you happen to have a picture of the harness from the subwoofer to the main harness at the wheel well? I am looking for the part number to order it. It should plug in at the Blue 40 pin connector. I have the PPS with active exhaust and Magnaride I just didn’t get the subwoofer option.
 

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Also looking to do this upgrade. Wondering also where the amp is located and if anybody else has changed out the b and o amp?
 

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Here's what I did.

Sub: Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44, this sub is a DVC 4 ohm on each coil.

As you can see from the first pic, this sub fits in between the raised sections in the housing perfectly. Unfortunately the basket is too large for the housing so it will not sit flush without cutting the hole bigger. I didn't want to cut the hole any larger as it would have weakened the mounting structure. This means you can't re-use the original cover, but I think it looks great without it. I'ts only just slightly larger than the whole so I looked for a gasket I could use to move it away from the face of the cutout. I installed a 15mmx15mm EDPM rubber gasket (.059") around the sub with contact cement, then screwed it to the housing. Fantastic sound, but next step will be an LC2I and a separate amp. Until then, this kicks pretty hard:)

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, it helped me decide what I wanted to do:)

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m3incorp

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Looks great, Daytons are known for a lot bass at a much cheaper price. I have their home 15" in my home office. It's quality wasn't up to par for my normal listening room, so a HSU VTF-15H MK2. I"ve never heard their car audio subwoofers.

Here's what I did.

Sub: Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44, this sub is a DVC 4 ohm on each coil.

As you can see from the first pic, this sub fits in between the raised sections in the housing perfectly. Unfortunately the basket is too large for the housing so it will not sit flush without cutting the hole bigger. I didn't want to cut the hole any larger as it would have weakened the mounting structure. This means you can't re-use the original cover, but I think it looks great without it. I'ts only just slightly larger than the whole so I looked for a gasket I could use to move it away from the face of the cutout. I installed a 15mmx15mm EDPM rubber gasket (.059") around the sub with contact cement, then screwed it to the housing. Fantastic sound, but next step will be an LC2I and a separate amp. Until then, this kicks pretty hard:)

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, it helped me decide what I wanted to do:)

IMG_3039.jpg
IMG_3043.jpg
IMG_3045.jpg
IMG_3046.jpg
IMG_3047.jpg
 

m3incorp

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I have the JL Audio 10w1v3-4 on the way. I will give it a try or decide if I need to go more extreme. I don't really use the trunk, so not against installing an enclosure in the trunk (that I can easily remove when needed) if it takes that to get to where I want to be with the sound. If the JL doesn't do it, I'll sell it and try something else before going the sub box in trunk route. It's hard to find a subwoofer that gets along good with the dimensions of the stock enclosure from both the mounting perspective and enclosure volume perspective.
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