2018 Oil Pump Gears

[WildHorse]

[MENTION=10926]beefcake[/MENTION] seriously where's the thousands of busted crank sprockets?

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[jayman33]

I’ve personally seen 5 broken Crank sprockets with an ATI balancer. Only one of those guys used social media as well. Just because you don’t hear about it all over the place doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist.

No infomercial, like Terry said. It’s all good till you break yours and you’re out 7-10k instead of paying 1-1200 to get it done.

 

[Lonmon]

It always gets me with this conspiracy theory way of looking at this. There are some bad people who try to sell people stuff they don't need but not most of them (vendors). It really comes down to this. Would you rather give advice that errors or the side of safety? Or would you rather give advice that errors on the side of catastrophic failure? The fact remains that while most cars have not broken these components, many have despite the circumstances and percentage. Why seem negative toward anyone suggesting that someone replace parts that are not that expensive comparitively on a vehicle used in a harsh manner (performance)? If you decide that its worth the risk then so be it, I have too in my cases but why make it seem like anyone who tries to give advice contrary to that is wasting peoples money? The best advice always errors on the side of caution. Its for all of us individually to weigh the facts and make a decision. You can have an opinion, no one should fault you for that, you just don't need to paint others advice as a vendor money grab.

 

[Mod Mustang Racing]

The procedure for installation is similar to that of the 2011-2017, with the exception of the oil pan, because the pick up tube is built into the pan (similar to GT350 oil pan) it is difficult to get the pump out, anyone who is attempting to install themself however should be prepared to remove the oil pan.

For those looking we have a great deal on our Billet gear combo for the 2018 here:

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...age=product_info&cPath=26_27&products_id=1008

 

[WildHorse]

No conspiracy theory other then where's the 1000's of broken sprockets? If your engine is out obviously replace them same if you go with an aftermarket damper, rev over 8000 or make north of 650whp. For the average guy, NA, SHIFTING under 7500 and not being retarded.. imo you'll be just fine.

 

[turnswrench]

Which means pulling up the engine and lowering the front cradle assembly.

 

[ICEFURY]

So how are the 2018 and 2019’s OPG’s and CG’s holding up. Going Whipple when mine come in and really don’t want to go through this hassle if not needed. I am reading the 18 ‘s and up got a better balancer is that enough to save these parts?

 

[Rjames18]

We just did the OPG's & CS in my 2018 about 3 weeks ago.
When we pulled the old ones out we did the drop test.
After 5 regular drops and nothing happening we gave them some force on the drop and they shattered into two pieces.
While to some it may look like it is not worth it atleast I'll have that secure feeling knowing they wont be a problem down the road.
I'm also going twins with a 2 step. First time on the 2 step and they would've been toast.

 

[LethalPerformance]

We've owned and raced 3 Coyote's before getting our 2018. All of them had stock motors and used the factory OPG's and sprocket. Never had an issue with any of those cars and had been a best of 9.7@150 on our 2015 MT-82 car.

For our 2018 we decided to proceed with caution and install a set of Boundary gears and their sprocket as we had been pretty lucky on all of our previous coyotes.

There's 2 important things to know about doing the OPG's on the 2018 that differs from the 2015-2017 cars.

1. The traditional balancer puller tool doesn't work the same on the 18 as it does on the 15-17 cars. We had to mock up a special tool to remove the balancer on the 18.
2. The K-member needs to be lowered to drop the oil pan enough to loosen up the pickup as it's similar to the one used on the Gt350 where it's actually attached to the pan.

Other than that you're good to go. We've got plenty of Boundary and MMR combo's in stock. Give us a shout if you have any questions.

Thanks!

https://www.lethalperformance.com/b...l-pump-gears-and-camshaft-sprocket-combo.html

https://www.lethalperformance.com/m...5-2018-mustang-gt-2015-2018-shelby-gt350.html

 

[LethalPerformance]

Here's the ticket.

You can see in this pic where the pickup tube is attached to the pan at the bottom. That's why the k-member needs to be lowered. So you can get to that tube, loosen it and out comes the pump.

 

[Rjames18]

IDK why you guys are saying you have to lower the k-member. We've done 3 2018's now and each one we just unbolted the pan and had enough to remove the pump.

 

[ICEFURY]

Looks like a lot of work. I hat to,chance things but leaning towards skipping this one and crossing fingers. If I skip would that be any reason to stick to stage 1 Whipple Instead of stage 2.

 

[gqneon]

IDK why you guys are saying you have to lower the k-member. We've done 3 2018's now and each one we just unbolted the pan and had enough to remove the pump.

This could be good news to hear - I'm at the stage of dropping my K-member now when the sun comes up here. If I don't have to, then I won't. My question to you is this - the ford manual shows there's a blob of RTV at the rear and front covers. If you don't drop the pan to remove the old RTV and apply new RTV, are you just leaving the gasket wherever it sticks (to the block or the pan as luck plays out) and then just bolting it back up? Or are you putting additional RTV where it would go if you'd cleaned and scraped it all off?

No dig intended, just wondering what your process is and whether you've had any leaks, drips, etc - as this could save substantial time and inconveniences to the community if the k-member drop is not necessary.

Hit me back with ^^^ if you can - I'd like to hear from you.

 

[Rjames18]

This could be good news to hear - I'm at the stage of dropping my K-member now when the sun comes up here. If I don't have to, then I won't. My question to you is this - the ford manual shows there's a blob of RTV at the rear and front covers. If you don't drop the pan to remove the old RTV and apply new RTV, are you just leaving the gasket wherever it sticks (to the block or the pan as luck plays out) and then just bolting it back up? Or are you putting additional RTV where it would go if you'd cleaned and scraped it all off?

No dig intended, just wondering what your process is and whether you've had any leaks, drips, etc - as this could save substantial time and inconveniences to the community if the k-member drop is not necessary.

Hit me back with ^^^ if you can - I'd like to hear from you.

With regard to the oil pan gasket - We essentially guided it in the grooves as we tightened the pan back up.
The only time we scraped off RTV and re-applied was on the front cover. No leaks so far and car has been driven another 1,000+ miles.

 

[gqneon]

Good to hear. I just swapped to billet OPG/CS this evening on jackstands in the garage and was able to raise the engine slightly with a jack and lower the pan enough to not have to drop the k member. Pan gasket and its rtv on the rear were easy to realign and i re-rtv'd the front. Ill keep an eye and see if any leaks should devlop but i really doubt they will.

I'll button things up tomorrow and start working on the headers and report back in a few days.

I was able to bypass dropping my k mber to do mine. Some of the bolts are in a tough place to access but it should be good. This is the third set of OPG/CS ive done this year and even though the pans gotta drop down its still easier than finger f***ing those two 10mm pickup bolts for an hour lol

Good luck all - ill report back if any leaks should creep up.

**UPDATE - went back in the morning and didn't see any puddles under the car so I assumed all was good. I slid under the car and realized "oh shit..." because about 6 of the bolts had oil drips building on them and 1 had a coolant drip forming. So... taking three seconds to think first I decided to fill it with oil before just dropping the subframe and pan to do what the shop manual called for ... I realized the design of the plastic oil pan allows a small quantity of fluid to sit above and/or in the "well" of sorts around it. I cleaned off the pending drips and filled it back up with 10 quarts of new Amsoil and and spun the motor by hand several rotations to make sure it was everywhere. That was this morning... early. I've checked them three times since (it's 430 pm here now) and nothing. I think it was just some seepage from the residual that had run down doing the work earlier, but it threw me for a loop there. Especially since there was coolant on the one bolt up front - clearly a drop that had leaked down earlier from pulling the water pump out.

So the moral - if it looks like you have a tiny seepage leak on a bolt head, clean it off and wait before you tear it down. The "no-subframe-drop" method appears to have worked out fine for me.

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