2018 Oil Pump Gears

[FISH_L3G]

So is it safe to say a stock engine, being driven hard occasionally, but not beat on, is fine as is?

I would take the stock motor and drive it how you want to, obviously not banging the rev limiter at every shift but would not be worried to drive my car hard.

- I have had my +700whp FI set up for two years now and 18,000 miles on stock OPG's without issue. Now I understand im playing the odds but would assume if it was going to fail it would have done it by now.

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[BoostedDave]

Is there any actual walk through to do this? Always done everything myself and prefer to keep it that way. Just a little freaked by it as i never played with the inside of a coyote before. Not so much looking for an exact step by step how-to, more so a how to for tips and tricks and things to look out for for a quick, efficient install.

 

[gqneon]

There's step by step guides and some videos showing it (mine are out there but not sure how helpful they are.) it's really just time consuming because there's a lot to remove and reinstall - and be ready to drop the oil pan if you have to but you may not need to. My best advice is take cardboard and draw the front of your engine and use that outline to punch each bolt from the front of the timing cover through the cardboard so you reassemble in the exact right spot each bolt without the old "which of these bolts from this pan I'm using goes where again?" moments. Balancer is a breeze with the right tool - which they don't make yet - so you have to manufacture / machine one to work. You might get by with an OTC1023 and a crank protector button like the shop manual says. It's definitely on that crank tight. I didn't torch heat mine but I probably would next time. Good luck!

 

[BoostedDave]

Started asking around about getting them installed. 1 place by me is a mustang specialist place. They said they have never done gears on any car they put out, and they have put out a lot of boosted 'stangs. Claims to never had an issue. Having said that, they couldn't give me a quote on having them installed. That left me with 2 other capable shops within a 3 hour drive. First shop was too busy and the lead mechanic that does this type of work was leaving for a major surgery. Next place that could do it wants $2200 plus tax (CDN) to install the gears. At that price i may as well add in a few thou and just build the engine. Was going to do it myself, but looking at it, the gen 3 coyote has some weird shit on the cam covers. Looks like a fuel pump of some sort on the passenger cover. Even with all the bolts out, still feels like it was being held down by 1 more secret bolt some where lol. So, i said fuck it, buttoned it all back up and just going to send it. I am boosted with a Vortech V3 and some other little mods. Nothing too serious. Waiting on final dyno day to get the tune finalized but hoping for the 720whp range. If it pops, then it pops. If not, then bonus for me. But as it sits for now, i have MMR OPG and CS sitting as nice paper weights since no one can install them around me. Oh yea, dealer quoted a price but refused to do it because they want no part of modifying cars. They have no time for it.

 

[FISH_L3G]

I've been quoted anywhere from 11-13 hours of labor and the cost of the OPG's and TC's. Does this seem excessive to yall?

 

[BoostedDave]

I've been quoted anywhere from 11-13 hours of labor and the cost of the OPG's and TC's. Does this seem excessive to yall?

I was told 15 hours minimum. Which had me worried because the $2200 plus tax i was quoted could have gone higher, just because they felt like it.

 

[Jbud]

I'm having a whipple put on currently and since he was part way there with the intake and all off I had the gears put in. I broke a timing gear on my old GT NA with an auto and the damage was real bad. Not risking it this round.

 

[gqneon]

Ford dealer that does aftermarket work here in Fishers Indiana wanted $2500 for headers and OPG/CS install here. I went ahead and knocked it out in the garage and spent that money on a fuel system. If you are patient and have tools, and a clean space to work on it - you can get this done. It's no minor task, and the fuel pump on the passenger valve cover was new for me too. It was no big deal once you work through it. I bet I spent ten minutes total disconnecting/reconnecting the HPFP - it was just another part in the process that gave me no real grief. I didn't do OPG on my first (of 3) supercharged S550's. I regretted it every day I drove it and I put OPG/CS in my last two when I did my blowers. Just do it then you won't have to worry about it. Or if that's not an option stuff that labor and part cost in an interest earning account and start saving for the motor you may possibly never need - or might need tomorrow. Either way!

 

[Darkhelmet22]

Was planning to do mine OPG/CS tomorrow but my car developed the dreaded tick at 600 miles. Whipple is supposed to go on in a couple weeks. I'm torn now, so do I wait longer on the engine and see if the noise gets worse or do I just throw the parts in and just send it...? With regards to the actual install, Alldata says the metal fuel line is one time use. It's $40 new from Ford so I bought one but I assume most people aren't replacing it...

 

[gqneon]

It says one time use in the Ford Manual too. I was able to reuse mine without issue as I suspect most people do. I don't gamble with fuel connections though, so if it wasn't perfect I'd replace it too. Can't fault you for buying the replacement. As far as the tick - I'd drive it. The tick can vary from minor to "holy sh*t" loud - but if you go and slap a blower on it or crack it open to do OPG etc, they could always make it hard for you to warranty it for the tick. So, if it's something you're worried about - hold off and take it to Ford and start the documentation and go from there. It's a shame the Coyote has this issue on the newer motors like this. Ceratec is known to quiet it down or nearly eliminate it - and doesn't appear to have any downside. Did yours start right after you changed out the oil that came from the factory?

 

[Darkhelmet22]

It says one time use in the Ford Manual too. I was able to reuse mine without issue as I suspect most people do. I don't gamble with fuel connections though, so if it wasn't perfect I'd replace it too. Can't fault you for buying the replacement. As far as the tick - I'd drive it. The tick can vary from minor to "holy sh*t" loud - but if you go and slap a blower on it or crack it open to do OPG etc, they could always make it hard for you to warranty it for the tick. So, if it's something you're worried about - hold off and take it to Ford and start the documentation and go from there. It's a shame the Coyote has this issue on the newer motors like this. Ceratec is known to quiet it down or nearly eliminate it - and doesn't appear to have any downside. Did yours start right after you changed out the oil that came from the factory?

Still has the factory fill oil. Checked the level and its full. I know some people have said some cars have been coming with low oil. I will say, it only happens on really cold starts (in the 30s) and goes away when warm. Did you pull that fuel line all the way off? I'd be nice not to not have to remove the intake mani.

 

[gqneon]

Still has the factory fill oil. Checked the level and its full. I know some people have said some cars have been coming with low oil. I will say, it only happens on really cold starts (in the 30s) and goes away when warm. Did you pull that fuel line all the way off? I'd be nice not to not have to remove the intake mani.

Yeah one end is under the intake manifold so I took mine off. You might be able to swing it without though, but I was putting a whipple in its place and there was no way to get under it because it terminates in the engine valley to the next connection.

You'll have to remove both ends to get the HPFP off.

 

[Darkhelmet22]

So, either I have residual oil from the little valleys on the oil pan or mine is leaking at the back of the pan. I cleaned it all off again and will drive it Thursday to see if it’s actually leaking.

 

[gqneon]

Check your torque on them again - I used the book settings on mine and after the oil that was collected dripped out it has never leaked - I checked again yesterday after 800 miles while pulling the trans. I thought they were leaking too because they would develop drips but after all the oil that collected above the bolt found its way out that was it.

 

[Ylow281]

I just finished up installing my OPG's. Do I need to perform a crank re-learn or anything before I start it?

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