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BlueThunder

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I need to check out the tach when I shift. I have no idea what is being mentioned here about that lol. If the RPMs hold for a couple of seconds, is that because the 18+ manuals are suppose to have the no lift shift? BTW I never try that.
There are 2 different things. There's the up-shift matching where the car will hold the revs at the appropriate RPMs to up-shift for a second or two. For example you lift off, clutch in to go from 2 to 3 at 3k RPMs, the RPMs will fall to 2k and then stop for a second or two. I guess they figured with the sloppy shifter it might take people longer to get into gear.

Then there's rev-hang where sometimes the revs won't drop at all when you clutch in. My car does this relentlessly on high-RPM 3-4 shifts. Like if I'm at 5k and want to go 3-4, when I fully lift off the throttle and clutch in, the car will hang at 5k RPMs before dropping and then it'll hang again at just over 3k for the regular up-shift match. You either have to wait, be a lot slower on your release and slip it a bit, or just blow through the shift really quick which seems to negate any jolt or buck that I can notice.

The first one is a programmed feature. The second one is either a malfunction of the first or something else that shouldn't happen because the revs should never hang at the RPMs you clutched in at with a full lift off the throttle. If this tune fixes that, I'd be much more inclined to pick it up.
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spaz mk will

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There are 2 different things. There's the up-shift matching where the car will hold the revs at the appropriate RPMs to up-shift for a second or two. For example you lift off, clutch in to go from 2 to 3 at 3k RPMs, the RPMs will fall to 2k and then stop for a second or two. I guess they figured with the sloppy shifter it might take people longer to get into gear.

Then there's rev-hang where sometimes the revs won't drop at all when you clutch in. My car does this relentlessly on high-RPM 3-4 shifts. Like if I'm at 5k and want to go 3-4, when I fully lift off the throttle and clutch in, the car will hang at 5k RPMs before dropping and then it'll hang again at just over 3k for the regular up-shift match. You either have to wait, be a lot slower on your release and slip it a bit, or just blow through the shift really quick which seems to negate any jolt or buck that I can notice.

The first one is a programmed feature. The second one is either a malfunction of the first or something else that shouldn't happen because the revs should never hang at the RPMs you clutched in at with a full lift off the throttle. If this tune fixes that, I'd be much more inclined to pick it up.
Excellent points which I admittedly glossed over. I was referring to the second behavior, where RPMs don’t begin to fall immediately on clutch in for an up shift, that I believe is gone in my limited set of tests.

I know about the “rpms fall as expected but hold near the correct rpm for the up shift” behavior you described in detail. That I didn’t call out or pay as much attention to since that typically doesn’t get in the way. I will have to pay better attention next time. But if I’m not noticing it, then overall I would think the system is working better.

Thanks for bringing up some of these finer details. It all adds up to how “Natural” the manual experience feels in this car.
 

Interceptor

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Hey guys. I just wanted to let you all know that I am getting this product installed on my car this coming Tuesday the 19th and will post before and after dyno results later that night.
That is what we need to see.
 

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Vstang2

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Hey guys. I just wanted to let you all know that I am getting this product installed on my car this coming Tuesday the 19th and will post before and after dyno results later that night.
Awesome , thank you. Awaiting your results.
 

Htk084

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Yes! You da man! :)

Hey guys. I just wanted to let you all know that I am getting this product installed on my car this coming Tuesday the 19th and will post before and after dyno results later that night.
 

Bowlerguy92

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Hey guys. I just wanted to let you all know that I am getting this product installed on my car this coming Tuesday the 19th and will post before and after dyno results later that night.
This will likely make or break my purchasing decision. I just wanted to let you know.... we're all counting on you.
 

Rpinaiii

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@Davefzr do you have manual or automatic? My butt dyno says there is a good difference down low..
 

Htk084

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Btw, are there any dyno results comparing the Bullitt to a GT manual? Always wondered if it put down more powa
 

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Rpinaiii

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I did my baseline 2018 GT dyno at same place with same technician as a 2019 Bullitt. The Bullit hit 446 rwhp and 387 wtq stock before his tune. My 2018 GT (with an h pipe only, res delete) hit 438 rwhp and 404 wtq. I am not sure about the huge difference in torque but that's what it was for both. IDK. But I plan on going back some day after more mods to see how my baseline changed. Not going anytime soon. My gt is a manual.
 

4leghorse

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Got mine installed at the dealer yesterday. I think they did a pretty neat job. Initial butt dyno readings are noting more pep in second from around 2k to 3k, normal and Sport+ both. Haven't had an opportunity to really get on it yet though.

Some odd notes: stock clutch feels more precise (I know.. lol) - maybe it's the throttle remapping that's messing with my mind. Also could almost swear I hear the diff clicking when leaving a stoplight - something I have not noted before. *shrug*

Feels good regardless, would do it again for the looks alone :-)

I have the Cervini grille, upper and lower. Intake vs ambient temps have usually been +5 to +7 degrees - now I'm seeing more +10 degrees when going slow in traffic... 91 to 101 for example . At speed, there seems to be no difference to previous.

IMG_20200508_155721_MP.jpg
Did ford download the tune from the website or did you have to download it then give it the the mechanic to load it on to the car?
 

Htk084

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Oh interesting thanks for sharing

I did my baseline 2018 GT dyno at same place with same technician as a 2019 Bullitt. The Bullit hit 446 rwhp and 387 wtq stock before his tune. My 2018 GT (with an h pipe only, res delete) hit 438 rwhp and 404 wtq. I am not sure about the huge difference in torque but that's what it was for both. IDK. But I plan on going back some day after more mods to see how my baseline changed. Not going anytime soon. My gt is a manual.
 

opengl

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Manual here. I’ll caveat my response first by saying I’ve had 1 drive on the tune, maybe 45 minutes in town and a little highway. I did try to experiment with scenarios around the torque peak and in different gears. I have a non-pp so 3.55 rear. Quick thoughts:

More torque feels good, kinda simple. The 40tqs increase is right at cruising speed or so for a given gear/speed limit scenario, which makes it feel far more responsive in traffic etc. 2-6 all feel a little more like 1-5 now at 2k rpm in normal driving conditions which is appreciated. Masks some of the tall 3rd gear problems with the 18+ MT-82.

The computer Doesn’t hold revs nearly as much on clutch-in, making for much smoother quick shifting since the revs fall fast as expected. Maybe my most favorite part of the tune.

Some extra exhaust pops on clutch-in under heavier throttle, at least in sport exhaust (I have active).

I noticed less torque management in 1&2 overall and/or the increase plus flatter curve others have noted is the reason. Either way there, is power and responsiveness below 3500 that just was not there in the standard tune.

Intake noise sounds good (tried some full throttle in quiet mode) and all the DI pump noise/clatter around 2000-2500 is gone with the sound tube delete, im very happy with that because it was annoying and unpleasant to me.

Overall I would say this is probably what the factory tune should be, for PP cars at least. Less for the power, more for the driveability and changes to shifting behavior - I hated the artificial rev hanging that assumed you took 2 seconds to shift at all times. Honestly I didn’t notice the HP change overall, but did get a little more sideways around peak power in 2nd, still on factory 255 A/S though. Mostly feel it all below 4k. The all seasons are even more exposed due to torque which I plan to address soon. Can’t hook well on the base tune let alone now.

As for price/target market/fitment - I did snag this at 951 and installed it myself. Only a few month left on warranty, so whatever. Comparing that to the cost of a CAI, new TB/adapter, and tune, it’s a fair price for something that I didn’t have to think much about. I get that there are higher performing tunes, but for me the DD torque and overall easy solution made sense. Fitment is OK, I had some struggles with the TB to CAI as I mentioned in other posts. Two people would make it better. Hood does seem to poke up maybe 1/4 inch higher on the driver side now at the fascia/hood line. The inlet/snorkel to front bumper is a little tedious but I took my time and got it on snug. I noticed IATs at ~10 or so above ambient on a 62 degree day which is roughly the same as stock. I need to take some more measurements though, worst I saw was maybe 20 during a long stoplight.

So much for quick thoughts, I might get out some over the weekend for some cruising, but nowhere to go really and rainy weather coming.
Very interesting about it reducing rev hang, hadn't seen anyone else mention it. That'd be huge if true, it drives me nuts.
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