Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[smdandb2]

it's been awhile since i've installed an amp but iirc it wasn't that bad. the only thing is with the sub amp i only had to worry about 1 channel lol. I have a couple questions regarding the install.

1. Did you use the speaker level imputs and outputs on the ms8?
2. Do you place the ms8 between the factory amp and head unit or after the amp?
3. Did you splice the speaker wires and connect them directly to the ms8 harness or did you go with the molex wiring harness?
4. In your first post you list 3 molex wiring harnesses, which should i use for the 9 speaker premium system? I intend to add a single channel amp for a subwoofer at a later date if that makes a difference.
5. On the wiring diagram for the 9 speaker premium system it shows the head unit providing LF, RF, LR, RR connections to the amp, does this mean that only 4 of the 8 input channels on the ms8 are used? Does this mean an equal number of outputs are used?
6. When adding the sub amp, i would use one extra output but no additional input correct? With the output going directly to the subwoofer amp?
7. Is there a remote turn on wire located up front? If so is it blue and white like in the rear?

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to make sure i have the gist of the install before i start.

1.) No, the output from the deck (pre-amp) is line level. Used that as line level in, and used line level out to my amps.
2.) MS8 was after the head unit. My amp is no longer connected.
3.) No splicing of speaker wires. I used the Molex connectors.
4.) You'll need all 3 to do it right. Honestly, I am not sure about using the MS8 as an amp though. If you are going to use the stock amp with the MS8, you will probably need the opposite ends of all 3 connectors as well.
5.) Actually, the MS8 only wants 2 channels of input. It will generate the feeds for all other channels. Since all my front speakers are in an active configuration, I have 6 of the output channels dedicated to the 2 doors and tweeters. 1 output is being used as my sub out. The MS8 does NOT have enough outputs to do a full active setup on a car with 3 way front speakers. I do not have any rear fill (no deck speakers) and I am perfectly content that way.
6.) You are correct.
7.) I think someone found one, but I used the one in the trunk. The one in the trunk is slightly annoying.

Hopefully that helps you out.

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[rambunctious]

Actually, the MS8 only wants 2 channels of input. It will generate the feeds for all other channels. Since all my front speakers are in an active configuration, I have 6 of the output channels dedicated to the 2 doors and tweeters. 1 output is being used as my sub out. The MS8 does NOT have enough outputs to do a full active setup on a car with 3 way front speakers.

one solution could be to use a simple single order crossover ( in line capacitor like production uses) for the tweeters. then 4 total channels for the front ( front woofers L/R and front mids/tweeters L/R) and then 2 channels for rear channel speakers, and finally 1 or 2 remain for sub output.

 

[smdandb2]

one solution could be to use a simple single order crossover ( in line capacitor like production uses) for the tweeters. then 4 total channels for the front ( front woofers L/R and front mids/tweeters L/R) and then 2 channels for rear channel speakers, and finally 1 or 2 remain for sub output.

Then you lose the time alignment.

After playing with the MS8, I feel the time alignment adds a LOT to the sound.

Sure you still have it for the 4 channels, but I think it is fantastic having all 6 be seperate.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

or all 8 be separate ;)

I got my system running, but not tuned. The non linear volume knob is quite annoying, can hardly hear much in the first 50% then the volume increases rapidly especially around 80%.

 

[smdandb2]

or all 8 be separate ;)

I got my system running, but not tuned. The non linear volume knob is quite annoying, can hardly hear much in the first 50% then the volume increases rapidly especially around 80%.

You did something way cool, something I would have never thought of.

I don't notice the knob being that non linear, but maybe I am just so used to it being at at least half up all the time anyways.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

my friend came over and did some crossover and EQ tuning, system sounds WAY better than when it did just raw throwdown. Now it gets loud at 50% instead of 80%

 

[smdandb2]

my friend came over and did some crossover and EQ tuning, system sounds WAY better than when it did just raw throwdown. Now it gets loud at 50% instead of 80%

Yeah, that was a huge improvement for my stereo.

I am very glad I spent the $18 on a somewhat calibrated microphone.

 

[kallo07]

Anyone want to sell their factory subwoofer setup?


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[rambunctious]

Anyone have the connector (Pair) for the radio head for base radio.
wanting to add a processor/amp in line between radio and speakers.
need the male/female pair to T in the harness/amp.

Ramb

 

[rambunctious]

TTT
need the part numbers for 240A and 240B from the radiohead
any suggestions on how these can be found like the amp connectors?

thanks
Ramb

 

[grumblin]

Quick wiring diagram correction

I noticed this - the highlighted LF+ and LF- should actually be RF+ and RF- (these are going to the a-pillar and door tweets):

 

[Butter77]

C2385B is currently on backorder through Mouser. No clue when it will be back in stock. Hopefully very quickly.

 

[grumblin]

C2385B is currently on backorder through Mouser. No clue when it will be back in stock. Hopefully very quickly.

Doing my install today. If all goes well - meaning I don't booger up the soldering too badly - I will have an extra one I can send you. My motto is "why buy one when you can have two at twice the price?"

 

[smdandb2]

"why buy one when you can have two at twice the price?"

HA, I got that reference! Great movie!

 

[dwaleke]

Amplifier Information
Premium/Shaker cars have an amplifier in the drivers side kick panel area that is driven from line level feeds from the head unit. The center channel is "created" by the amplifier itself, not the head unit. The sub signal also seems to be artificially created as I see no wiring to suggest it comes directly from the head unit.

Wiring Information
Here are the wiring diagrams for the cars. Thank you Heinoceros.

Premium (including Shaker systems):
Head Unit to Amplifier

Amplifier to Speakers

Amplifier Connectors Thank you ThirtyThreePointThree and h65 for getting part numbers and the rest of this information.
These are made by Molex and can be had from Mouser.com.

34690-0160 - C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160

34690-0161 - C2385A has most of the speaker outputs.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161

34772-0142 - C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140

Pre-Amp Signal Measurements - Thank you h65!
The range is 0.04 volts at 20% volume to 1.53 volts at 80% volume (and 3.1 volts at max volume) with a CD audio source. Measurement was taken from pins 7 and 8 which represent the front left signal.

12v Remote Turn-on Lead
There is one conveniently located in the trunk wiring harness near the right rear speaker. The wire you are looking for is the blue/white one.

Did anyone figure out how the Subwoofer get's its signal? Or where the wiring comes from?

I am thinking about bypassing the main speaker amp and I'd like to preserve the factory subwoofer.

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