Most Reliable 1500 hp Short Block??

[illtal]

Have you taken your current setup to the track? I think you may be surprised how fast (and fun) your current setup already is.

Yes... Although you can likely get away without going that far.

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[DougS550]

Have you taken your current setup to the track? I think you may be surprised how fast (and fun) your current setup already is.

I am sure it will do great, But; I do not feel to confident that pushing the oem pistons and rods at 2.5x the manufactures Performance limits will survive very long, but I really am guessing for I have not tried. I would love to take it to Lucas Speedway at IND before winter. If it does well, I will beef engine and transmission as I stated earlier but, I feel If ai stay with the Whipple that going with the 3.8 might be a must. I will have to do some digging to see which way I need to go.

 

[NGOT8R]

@DougS550 do you have a set goal in mind in terms of 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile performance? When I get dialed in for boost, I’m going to have 2-3 power levels set via my Eboost2 controller.

Have you seen this thread before about the limitations of the factory motor and its reliability if the power is used cautiously?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/testing-the-limits-of-your-stock-motor-coyote.179109/

 

[K4fxd]

These coyotes are pretty strong motors. Keep the ign timing in check, use better gas than you need and let her rip.

 

[DougS550]

@DougS550 do you have a set goal in mind in terms of 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile performance? When I get dialed in for boost, I’m going to have 2-3 power levels set via my Eboost2 controller.

Have you seen this thread before about the limitations of the factory motor and its reliability if the power is used cautiously?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/testing-the-limits-of-your-stock-motor-coyote.179109/

No, But I will need to get some insight into the limitations or capabilities. I do have the smooth boost adjustable boost controller and works really well. Minimum setting it dynoed right at 680whp, mid setting it was like 800whp and then maximum 918whp but my chp was 1108 so that number is my limiting factor for my engine I need to keep in mind.

These coyotes are pretty strong motors. Keep the ign timing in check, use better gas than you need and let her rip.

Thank you for reply. I run Ignite E85 "Orange". I will be switching to Ignite E90 "Red" 114 this Fall.

 

[DougS550]

@DougS550 do you have a set goal in mind in terms of 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile performance? When I get dialed in for boost, I’m going to have 2-3 power levels set via my Eboost2 controller.

Have you seen this thread before about the limitations of the factory motor and its reliability if the power is used cautiously?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/testing-the-limits-of-your-stock-motor-coyote.179109/

Very interesting for sure. I decided last month I was going yo install a 3.0 Griptec pulley on my 10%OD Damper and run on Ignite E90 114 (Red). Then do an oil analysis jfor I just gotta know before winter.

 

[NGOT8R]

Very interesting for sure. I decided last month I was going yo install a 3.0 Griptec pulley on my 10%OD Damper and run on Ignite E90 114 (Red). Then do an oil analysis jfor I just gotta know before winter.

I think you already have something special as your car sits. As mentioned before, you will probably be very surprised once you have a chance to run it and see what it does.

I do plan to drive mine on the street too with the turbo, but it should hold well on the factory sealed motor for that purpose. When I go to the track, I’ll turn it up, make some hits and turn it back down for reliability again.

Are you going to run a parachute too?

 

[DougS550]

I think you already have something special as your car sits. As mentioned before, you will probably be very surprised once you have a chance to run it and see what it does.

I do plan to drive mine on the street too with the turbo, but it should hold well on the factory sealed motor for that purpose. When I go to the track, I’ll turn it up, make some hits and turn it back down for reliability again.

Are you going to run a parachute too?

For safety reasons that looks like a viable option but I will think about it hard for my application. If I was 1/4 racing it once a week, sure saves on the braking system and provides that end of track confidence that you will stop. Are you planning to run at the track often?

 

[NGOT8R]

For safety reasons that looks like a viable option but I will think about it hard for my application. If I was 1/4 racing it once a week, sure saves on the braking system and provides that end of track confidence that you will stop. Are you planning to run at the track often?

I’d like to try and go once a month. The nearest track is now going to be Gainsville, which is about an hour away, so we’ll have to see. That’s one of the things I’ll miss about living in our last house. I was literally 14 miles away from the track and could get there on the back roads with zero traffic. I also agree with your comment about the brakes and therefore, I will be adding a chute. I’ve seen guys out there at my old track running without a roll bar or cage in S550s, but with chutes. Some people just don’t like climbing over bars to get in and out of a car.

My ‘04 Mach 1 drag car had a 6 point roll bar with removable door bars. I may have to look into that option for the Bullitt, because I know my wife isn’t about to climb over anything to get into a car nowadays, lol.

While we’re on the subject of making more power, perhaps this is an appropriate thread to post this.

 

[DougS550]

I’d like to try and go once a month. The nearest track is now going to be Gainsville, which is about an hour away, so we’ll have to see. That’s one of the things I’ll miss about living in our last house. I was literally 14 miles away from the track and could get there on the back roads with zero traffic. I also agree with your comment about the brakes and therefore, I will be adding a chute. I’ve seen guys out there at my old track running without a roll bar or cage in S550s, but with chutes. Some people just don’t like climbing over bars to get in and out of a car.

My ‘04 Mach 1 drag car had a 6 point roll bar with removable door bars. I may have to look into that option for the Bullitt, because I know my wife isn’t about to climb over anything to get into a car nowadays, lol.

While we’re on the subject of making more power, perhaps this is an appropriate thread to post this.

Even if mine survives I am going to tear down and build because I just really just want to build another engine, my way. Maybe a Watson 4 bar cage? I know NHRA Streel Legal class does not require a Roll cage I don't know about a chute. I have plenty of time to ponder on those subjects. But in the end, I have to be safe for those unexpected shit that happens

 

[Headless Horseman]

Whipple 3.0 15lbs (spinning around 17,250) @ 7800 engine rpms, 1108chp, mmr timing guides, chains, Boss tensioners, 10%OD IW damper, 1050x Injectors, Stock engine internals, stock 1080R, suspension and drive train upgraded, no issue. I would actually like to buy a race block and build the entire engine myself picking the machine shops, parts etc and blue printing myself. But I'm open for options. I just don't want to grenade my engine and possibly make the heads, MMR oil pump assembly etc, not serviceable.

You could get the Werewolf engine block and build a TT 342ci. 5.6L That'll make it unique!

https://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Perform...S5yiRihAhg3jMwW8SF7AY86d_AplXDpMaAupqEALw_wcB

 

[DougS550]

You could get the Werewolf engine block and build a TT 342ci. 5.6L That'll make it unique!

https://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Perform...S5yiRihAhg3jMwW8SF7AY86d_AplXDpMaAupqEALw_wcB

I don't see one for my 2019? I think the FFRE Stage 3 looks more like I would like "IF" I decide not to use my block which I will decide after comparing my options and what I want. I need to see which way would be cost beneficial. I will look into "IF" I can send my block off to a Highly rated shop and have all upgrades done to it including Sleeve and O-Ring. I wont know until I have time to sit down and look at my best options. Wish you lived near me we could Feed off of each other and go crazy with our cars. LOL

 

[Headless Horseman]

I don't see one for my 2019? I think the FFRE Stage 3 looks more like I would like "IF" I decide not to use my block which I will decide after comparing my options and what I want. I need to see which way would be cost beneficial. I will look into "IF" I can send my block off to a Highly rated shop and have all upgrades done to it including Sleeve and O-Ring. I wont know until I have time to sit down and look at my best options. Wish you lived near me we could Feed off of each other and go crazy with our cars. LOL

Wow! I hadn't noticed they aren't for the GEN 3 cylinder heads! I'm sure there's a scientific mechanical reason they left us out!

 

[illtal]

I don't see one for my 2019? I think the FFRE Stage 3 looks more like I would like "IF" I decide not to use my block which I will decide after comparing my options and what I want. I need to see which way would be cost beneficial. I will look into "IF" I can send my block off to a Highly rated shop and have all upgrades done to it including Sleeve and O-Ring. I wont know until I have time to sit down and look at my best options. Wish you lived near me we could Feed off of each other and go crazy with our cars. LOL

You should always buy a fresh block, keep your old one as a spare. I don't know what Gen3 blocks cost now but they were only 900 dollars and the crank was 300 back when I got my short block made.

 

[DougS550]

Wow! I hadn't noticed they aren't for the GEN 3 cylinder heads! I'm sure there's a scientific mechanical reason they left us out!

Yep

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