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Cold weather commuting / oil coolers

FISH22

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One of our coldest days of the season here in southeast Virginia yesterday. I noticed oil temps hovered around 170 F during my entire 45 minute commute.

Context: I have daily driven all of my sports cars over the years (mostly M cars, and a manual CT5-V Blackwing before the GT350), and the Shelby is no exception. So no need to recommend not using the GT350 year round... I plan on driving it till the wheels fall off. I purchased this GT350 late spring this year; 2020 HEP, 10k miles at time of purchase, now at 15,500. So this is my first time experiencing this cars behaviors in near freezing temps.

Previous cars had their own quirks when it came to oil temps. My G80 M3 took FOREVER to get near 200 F, but held it well, no matter the ambient temp. The Blackwing got to optimum temps decently, but did stay on the lower end (185'ish). During my commute home in the evening, I tend to really stretch her legs. Thankfully I live out in the country where she can really open up. However, I don't ever plan on sending it to redline when her temps are warm at best.

Cooler block-offs. I've stumbled across a few threads where this was prescribed. Makes sense. Block air flow to the forward coolers to help temps rise. For you northern owners that DD their cars through cold weather, have you tried this? Wondering if the juice is worth the squeeze. I'd feel more comfortable winding her out at a 190'ish temp.

Either way, planning on conducting a "proof of concept" and fabricating some fiberglass covers for both trans and engine oil coolers.
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robvas

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What is the outside temp? Cold enough where your tires lose a ton of grip?
 
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FISH22

FISH22

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What is the outside temp? Cold enough where your tires lose a ton of grip?
Well-versed in that arena. Yes, minimal traction during colder temps. A little common sense goes a long way though.

We rarely see the 20s down here, it’ll average mid 40s to 50s through the winter. During the commute home last night, it was 39 F, which is when I started monitoring oil temps.
 

WItoTX

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If I were you wanting to cover them, I would put gaffer tape on the airflow exits in the wheel well liner, and see if that gives you a bump in temp. If that doesn't help, I would then consider gaffer tape on the grill. I would say stopping the airflow coming out allows for air pressure to build up in the cooler area, and it will have the same net affect, without any visual changes to your car.

Meanwhile in Texas, my oil temps refuse to stay close to 200 LOL. Normally I would say just leave it, but 170 isn't even enough to burn off the condensate.

Just for comparisons sake, what is your trans temp showing? Are you intending to block off the trans cooler as well?
 
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FISH22

FISH22

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If I were you wanting to cover them, I would put gaffer tape on the airflow exits in the wheel well liner, and see if that gives you a bump in temp. If that doesn't help, I would then consider gaffer tape on the grill. I would say stopping the airflow coming out allows for air pressure to build up in the cooler area, and it will have the same net affect, without any visual changes to your car.

Meanwhile in Texas, my oil temps refuse to stay close to 200 LOL. Normally I would say just leave it, but 170 isn't even enough to burn off the condensate.

Just for comparisons sake, what is your trans temp showing? Are you intending to block off the trans cooler as well?
Genius! Did not consider just blocking the rear of the coolers through the wheel liner. Makes sense as that would prevent airflow through the fins. Also a lot less work than pulling the front bumper and cover the front of the coolers. I'll give this a shot, thanks!

I don't remember a number on the trans as I was focused on the engine, but I do recall that the temps were much lower than normal. I'll be sure to pay attention to the trans on the next drive.

And considering the rear diff cooler has an electric pump integrated, I'm assuming that doesn't turn on until a specific temp? Those temps seemed to be ok yesterday.
 

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WItoTX

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Genius! Did not consider just blocking the rear of the coolers through the wheel liner. Makes sense as that would prevent airflow through the fins. Also a lot less work than pulling the front bumper and cover the front of the coolers. I'll give this a shot, thanks!

I don't remember a number on the trans as I was focused on the engine, but I do recall that the temps were much lower than normal. I'll be sure to pay attention to the trans on the next drive.

And considering the rear diff cooler has an electric pump integrated, I'm assuming that doesn't turn on until a specific temp? Those temps seemed to be ok yesterday.
This is correct. It is very noticeable when it turns on too, to the point the first time it did it to me, I thought for sure I had a mechanical failure in the diff.

To be clear on the gaffer tape, I am suggesting plugging the vents in the wheel well liner (Photo from my car below), and not putting tape on the cooler itself. That way, you don't have to remove anything, and you aren't inadvertently collecting rocks/road crap in the radiator itself.

1733232114057-hs.webp


That said, if you pull the wheel well liner, I seem to recall enough space around the cooler that you could probably work your hand around it to put gaffer tape on the front of the cooler once you remove the wheel well liner.

1733232677401-s6.jpg


1733232703290-38.jpg


FWIW, the bumper removal is pretty easy. If you haven't done it before, it seems a bit daunting, but it really isn't bad at all.
 

Postal Bob

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If it's in the 40's, yes, it'll take my car about 30- 45 minutes of driving for the oil temp to get to 180. And it's not just the oil that doesn't get up to temperature. The transmission temp also stays very low, and I find it is a little stiff when shifting. But simply put, with the type of car it is, and with soft summer tires, you shouldn't be driving it in temps that low. These cars are simply not made for it. Try to remember that this is basically a racing car that is street legal, using 50W oil.
Put it away for the winter, and take it out again when temps stay above 50. You can then fully enjoy the car for the way it was designed.
 
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FISH22

FISH22

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This is correct. It is very noticeable when it turns on too, to the point the first time it did it to me, I thought for sure I had a mechanical failure in the diff.

To be clear on the gaffer tape, I am suggesting plugging the vents in the wheel well liner (Photo from my car below), and not putting tape on the cooler itself. That way, you don't have to remove anything, and you aren't inadvertently collecting rocks/road crap in the radiator itself.

1733232114057-hs.webp


That said, if you pull the wheel well liner, I seem to recall enough space around the cooler that you could probably work your hand around it to put gaffer tape on the front of the cooler once you remove the wheel well liner.

1733232677401-s6.jpg


1733232703290-38.jpg


FWIW, the bumper removal is pretty easy. If you haven't done it before, it seems a bit daunting, but it really isn't bad at all.
Awesome. Good to know I might be able to reach the front of the coolers through the wheel well. I'll do the tape first and see how that impacts temps. Really appreciate your input.
 
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FISH22

FISH22

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If it's in the 40's, yes, it'll take my car about 30- 45 minutes of driving for the oil temp to get to 180. And it's not just the oil that doesn't get up to temperature. The transmission temp also stays very low, and I find it is a little stiff when shifting. But simply put, with the type of car it is, and with soft summer tires, you shouldn't be driving it in temps that low. These cars are simply not made for it. Try to remember that this is basically a racing car that is street legal, using 50W oil.
Put it away for the winter, and take it out again when temps stay above 50. You can then fully enjoy the car for the way it was designed.
Big negative, ghostrider. While I appreciate your feedback, life is too short to stuff this thing away during mild winters. Now, If I was back in my hometown of Chicago, yes, the GT350 would likely be tucked away for months.

After a long 23 year military career (still going), I've come to realize the important things in life... and daily driving this incredible machine is one of them. Mind you, as previously mentioned, I have DD'd a 670 hp sedan through southeast Virginia winters, and that was an absolute handful. Believe it or not, the GT350 is much easier to manage (brings me back to my E90 M3 and S2000 days).

Now, your point on oil weight. Yes, completely agree. It's a goopy oil that needs time to liquify. Again, I believe with a light foot, proper warm-up, it's a non-issue. If my ignorance or low amount of F's leads to catastrophic engine failure, then so be it. But I believe I'm thoughtful enough to understand the complexities of this engine and respect it.

YOLO.
 

WItoTX

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Big negative, ghostrider. While I appreciate your feedback, life is too short to stuff this thing away during mild winters. Now, If I was back in my hometown of Chicago, yes, the GT350 would likely be tucked away for months.

After a long 23 year military career (still going), I've come to realize the important things in life... and daily driving this incredible machine is one of them. Mind you, as previously mentioned, I have DD'd a 670 hp sedan through southeast Virginia winters, and that was an absolute handful. Believe it or not, the GT350 is much easier to manage (brings me back to my E90 M3 and S2000 days).

Now, your point on oil weight. Yes, completely agree. It's a goopy oil that needs time to liquify. Again, I believe with a light foot, proper warm-up, it's a non-issue. If my ignorance or low amount of F's leads to catastrophic engine failure, then so be it. But I believe I'm thoughtful enough to understand the complexities of this engine and respect it.

YOLO.
Yeah man, I'd say park it too, but to hell with it, send it, have fun, enjoy the ride! I firmly believe the 350 is the pinnacle of the Mustang, from 1964 to 2025. Well technically the R is. But the 350 is close. It deserves to be driven and admired.
 

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Is the 5W50 predominantly because of engine temps especially on track? Would a 0W40 say for winter use be okay and allow for safer use at a lower engine temp in colder ambient temps?
 

matthewr87

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I guarantee your engine oil temps will go up if you keep the RPM above 5k for the entire 45 minutes :giggle:
 
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FISH22

FISH22

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threw this together tonight. Just a prototype, but will give a decent idea of air flow restriction. I’ll report back.

IMG_4126.jpeg
 
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FISH22

FISH22

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Quick follow up for any cold climate people following:

Gained 10 degrees on the commute. Lingering around 180 during cruise and moderate throttle. Makes me feel much better.

Anyone savvy on transmission temps? With the cold, I’m not even getting to 100. Rear diff gets to 120ish. Wondering if I should flip the prototype and copy it for the right side trans cooler duct.
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