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K4fxd
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I have a good alignment guy here, well worth the wait. I just time any major suspension work so I'm done the night before my appointment. He gets everything exact side to side. It's painful to watch, so I don't anymore.
RAVAGE88
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The idea is to set your suspension up from a solid point of reference. Given the process used to originally place the subframe, it's an easy assumption that the subframe isn't positioned correctly....some very simple measurements can validate this. Although, based on your alignment numbers, the math isn't difficult to understand what it would mean to correct the camber, but does this mean you'll no longer see a difference side-to-side? No, it likely means the issue now shifted to someplace else.
If you properly dowel locate the subframe, which zero's your point of reference and then base your alignment on a centered subframe, you'll be far better off in the long run. And, having an overly active OCD issue myself, I can tell you that you'll be tons more satisfied than doing the bare minimum to reach a point that you believe all the issues are resolved but in reality, have fallen considerably short of proper execution.
MB
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shogun32
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I think that combo is a first.
Do you have a cheap source? Because that BoM racks up real fast.
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Blu22HPP
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I guess that is my reason for this thread. Essentially finding the proper course of action. I'm not looking to take short cuts and definitely want to do it correctly. If this is simply an alignment correction, then the rest is unnecessary. However, if correcting the subframe is what it takes to do this correctly, then I'm fine with that as well. I believe a proper foundation is important, especially if / when I plan on doing other things down the road.
RAVAGE88
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Not sure, but once dialed in, handles better than anything I've built prior. Dropped my car 1.25".
Unfortunately, I don't, and you're 100% correct....the BoM gets ridiculous really quickly. I buy parts over a period of time and stage them until I'm ready to do a huge chunk of work. One can't do the 350R Brake Kit without also doing new wheels, which means new tires, and why keep the OE bushings that come in the new knuckles when it makes sense to go spherical and on and on. I'll also do the Mach 1 Knuckles and Hubs in the front, but everything else for the front is already in place. When I'm done underneath, there won't be anything left that's stock for a GT. Someone started a thread recently about getting bored with a GT, but I haven't hit that point yet.
MB
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RAVAGE88
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Exactly, and when you mentioned your OCD, I knew what I was dealing with
.However, "correctly" is relative, as it depends on what you want to do with your car. I'd never expect anyone to go as far as I'm going with mine, but because I already dealt with what you've mentioned, I highly recommend dowel locating the sub-frame as part of what it means to properly align the car. All the other stuff that I've mentioned is just me, as my car is not a daily. If you want to deal with wheel hop issues, make sure you can launch the car, or want it to handle well on the track, all the other stuff becomes part of "correctly."
MB
Racer5973
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Get the camber adjusted that is your problem!I thought I would start my own thread as I originally piggy backed off an older one. I'm looking for input from those who have and those who have chosen not too. Please bear with me.
About a week ago I had my new wheel & tire combination installed. The goal was to move on from the tucked look, and move more towards the flush, but still remain inside the fender (19X9.5, 33 offset, 265/40 19).
Seeing how alot of others in here have gone with much wider setups and still remain flush, I thought this would be a non issue.
Apparently, my car has the same issue as many others have experienced, one side sticking further out then the other. Right side, slight poke while left side tucked in. The very thing I was trying to avoid by choosing this option.
I have read through the forums to find options to correct this issue, such as Steeda IRS alignment kit (which I have ordered). I've also seen several lockout kit options as well options to support the IRS.
My goal with this car was to essentially tweak it or maybe fine tune it if you will, not transform it into something else entirely.
I have had the alignment checked and will share that along with pics of the left and right side.
I measured the distance from fender to top of center cap ridge on both sides using a plum bob, to see how much difference there was. The passenger rear, measured at 2 1/16 inch vs drivers side 2 1/4 inch. Obviously tucked in, this is not seen. Honestly the difference seems like it shouldn't matter. But what about when you add your alignment into the equation? The difference on each side could make it appear worse.
For me, unfortunately it's the OCD coming into play.
Before I start diving into the possible rabbit hole, I would like get input from those who have gone this direction or from those who have chosen not to. Going through the forums I have come across some that have worked and some that haven't, as well reasons not to.
Thank you for your time.
