To Those Who Have .. Subframe & Alignment

[Blu22HPP]

I thought I would start my own thread as I originally piggy backed off an older one. I'm looking for input from those who have and those who have chosen not too. Please bear with me.

About a week ago I had my new wheel & tire combination installed. The goal was to move on from the tucked look, and move more towards the flush, but still remain inside the fender (19X9.5, 33 offset, 265/40 19).

Seeing how alot of others in here have gone with much wider setups and still remain flush, I thought this would be a non issue.

Apparently, my car has the same issue as many others have experienced, one side sticking further out then the other. Right side, slight poke while left side tucked in. The very thing I was trying to avoid by choosing this option.

I have read through the forums to find options to correct this issue, such as Steeda IRS alignment kit (which I have ordered). I've also seen several lockout kit options as well options to support the IRS.

My goal with this car was to essentially tweak it or maybe fine tune it if you will, not transform it into something else entirely.

I have had the alignment checked and will share that along with pics of the left and right side.

I measured the distance from fender to top of center cap ridge on both sides using a plum bob, to see how much difference there was. The passenger rear, measured at 2 1/16 inch vs drivers side 2 1/4 inch. Obviously tucked in, this is not seen. Honestly the difference seems like it shouldn't matter. But what about when you add your alignment into the equation? The difference on each side could make it appear worse.

For me, unfortunately it's the OCD coming into play.

Before I start diving into the possible rabbit hole, I would like get input from those who have gone this direction or from those who have chosen not to. Going through the forums I have come across some that have worked and some that haven't, as well reasons not to.

Thank you for your time.

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[WItoTX]

It could be as simple as your camber is different from side to side. Since camber pivots around the RLCA, less camber is going to push the top of the wheel out.

 

[RAVAGE88]

I have the Steeda Sub-Frame Alignment Kit, Bushing Support Kit, Sub-Frame Braces, Differential Bushing Inserts with Through Bolt Kit, Pro Active Adjustable Shocks (and Struts), Dual Rate Lowering Spring Kit and Vertical Links (there's a host of other stuff I'll leave out, but you get the idea).

All that said, first, off, I couldn't ask for the car to handle better, but the stance is incredible. The alignment is set up for the track and the comments and questions I get in parking lots are based on the fact that, as a Mustang, people question whether it's really a Mustang because it sits so nicely.

I have more planned as I upgrade the brakes to the GT350R Kit, so the adjustable toe links and upper camber arms will go in, and prior to installing the new knuckles, I'll press the spherical bushings into the knuckles.

Botton line is, I don't think you can go wrong with the sub-frame alignment kit, at the very least, to correct the issue your car has with a sub-frame that likely isn't tracking correctly.

MB

 

[Blu22HPP]

It could be as simple as your camber is different from side to side. Since camber pivots around the RLCA, less camber is going to push the top of the wheel out.

This is what I was originally hoping for but of course its the drivers side (the most challenging) to adjust. The shop today didn't want to mess with it.

 

[Blu22HPP]

I have the Steeda Sub-Frame Alignment Kit, Bushing Support Kit, Sub-Frame Braces, Differential Bushing Inserts with Through Bolt Kit, Pro Active Adjustable Shocks (and Struts), Dual Rate Lowering Spring Kit and Vertical Links (there's a host of other stuff I'll leave out, but you get the idea).

That's quite a list!


Botton line is, I don't think you can go wrong with the sub-frame alignment kit, at the very least, to correct the issue your car has with a sub-frame that likely isn't tracking correctly.

Seems definitely the way to go. I see many seem to have had success with this option. The one thing that has got somewhat in my way is, if you square the rear, how about the front?

MB

 

[NightmareMoon]

This is what I was originally hoping for but of course its the drivers side (the most challenging) to adjust. The shop today didn't want to mess with it.

My math says if your camber was even, your pump bob difference left/right would be within 0.004"

I.e. you don't need to mess with recentering the subframe, the subframe is fine, you just need to get an alignment to even the camber, and for a street car, yes, just fix the right side.

Find an alignment shop staffed by men and not little girls.

 

[K4fxd]

It's the camber, look at your rear specs.

 

[CrazyHippie]

I'd recommend waiting until after you install the Steeda sub-frame alignment kit and then get it properly aligned. Tell the alignment shop to make sure that the rears are equally spaced relative to the fenders so that they're paying attention.

I've got a similar tire setup to yours and I installed a Steeda Ultimate Street rear sub-frame kit. The handling difference is night and day!

Good Luck!

 

[Blu22HPP]

My math says if your camber was even, your pump bob difference left/right would be within 0.004"

I.e. you don't need to mess with recentering the subframe, the subframe is fine, you just need to get an alignment to even the camber, and for a street car, yes, just fix the right side.

Find an alignment shop staffed by men and not little girls.

It's seems finding a good shop is hard to find. I thought I had one Friday but I think their focus is the cars of yesteryear. They been in the business for about 60 years, the shop looks it and didn't see a lick of any tech. Not knocking their ability to do it without but he his words were to leave it as is.

 

[WItoTX]

My math says if your camber was even, your pump bob difference left/right would be within 0.004"

I.e. you don't need to mess with recentering the subframe, the subframe is fine, you just need to get an alignment to even the camber, and for a street car, yes, just fix the right side.

Find an alignment shop staffed by men and not little girls.

This is the correct answer OP.

 

[Blu22HPP]

It's the camber, look at your rear specs.

That was the first thing I looked at when they gave me the sheet.

 

[NightmareMoon]

It's seems finding a good shop is hard to find. I thought I had one Friday but I think their focus is the cars of yesteryear. They been in the business for about 60 years, the shop looks it and didn't see a lick of any tech. Not knocking their ability to do it without but he his words were to leave it as is.

I mean the rear is a little annoying to adjust because of the cross talk between toe and camber, but its not THAT bad. After the car is on the rack and the alignment equipment is attached, its probably <10 minutes of fiddling. I've watched my mechanic do it a few times and I've had a ton of alignments. They've always been able to get the rear within <0.1-0.2° side to side. I wouldn't expect them to get it to read perfect.

Your toe needs adjusting in the rear anyways. You want like 0.13 toe in on each side, or like 0.25 total with very minor variance side to side. Helps the car be predictable when spinning wheels in a straight line and keeps the rear nicely planted in corners.

Maybe try to ask your local racers and autocrossers where they get their cars aligned. Shops that do track cars will be used to picky customers who bring their own specs.

 

[Blu22HPP]

I'd recommend waiting until after you install the Steeda sub-frame alignment kit and then get it properly aligned. Tell the alignment shop to make sure that the rears are equally spaced relative to the fenders so that they're paying attention.

I've got a similar tire setup to yours and I installed a Steeda Ultimate Street rear sub-frame kit. The handling difference is night and day!

Good Luck!

I have heard this kit makes a difference, which I like. It makes total sense to install prior getting the alignment. However I'm finding it challenging to find the right shop.

 

[CrazyHippie]

I have heard this kit makes a difference, which I like. It makes total sense to install prior getting the alignment. However I'm finding it challenging to find the right shop.

I use a local Firestone shop for alignments and they do a great job. I purchased a lifetime alignment figuring that it will eventually pay for itself. Some say that Firestone is no good and others have good experience with them.

 

[Blu22HPP]

I mean the rear is a little annoying to adjust because of the cross talk between toe and camber, but its not THAT bad. After the car is on the rack and the alignment equipment is attached, its probably <10 minutes of fiddling. I've watched my mechanic do it a few times and I've had a ton of alignments. They've always been able to get the rear within <0.1-0.2° side to side. I wouldn't expect them to get it to read perfect.

Your toe needs adjusting in the rear anyways. You want like 0.13 toe in on each side, or like 0.25 total with very minor variance side to side. Helps the car be predictable when spinning wheels in a straight line and keeps the rear nicely planted in corners.

Maybe try to ask your local racers and autocrossers where they get their cars aligned. Shops that do track cars will be used to picky customers who bring their own specs.

Yeah, I will have to expand my search and look into that scene for sure. If I can find the right shop and they are able to correct it, I'm in.

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