SCCA CAM-C Thread

[CobaltFilly]

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[TeeLew]

That's a "Set the toe and go" shop. It's not what you want.

 

[CobaltFilly]

That's a "Set the toe and go" shop. It's not what you want.

Apologies for ignorance, but can you explain this a bit more! Is it better to do this myself, how would I go about it, or what is a better shop…thanks if you get some time to explain! Much appreciated.

 

[TeeLew]

They gave the car a little FR camber. I don't know how they got it. I suppose they could have just loosened stuff up and pushed it into position and gotten some adjustment that way? It doesn't look like you're using plates. That's probably not enough negative camber to keep 11's from rubbing, but maybe you'll get away with it.

The 'easy' way to set the rear camber is just go to maximum, which is about -2.4*. I prefer to bring it back to -2.0, but it's not the end of the world either way. They didn't adjust either rear camber and left with 1/2 a degree across the axle, which is pretty lame. They did adjust RL toe by 1/64", which is about what you get from loosening and retightening the jam nut, so practically nothing.

You either have to find a shop who will charge you extra for a non-stock alignment *and* has a tech who is smart and conscientious enough to actually get those numbers on the car or do it yourself.

 

[CobaltFilly]

They gave the car a little FR camber. I don't know how they got it. I suppose they could have just loosened stuff up and pushed it into position and gotten some adjustment that way? It doesn't look like you're using plates. That's probably not enough negative camber to keep 11's from rubbing, but maybe you'll get away with it.

The 'easy' way to set the rear camber is just go to maximum, which is about -2.4*. I prefer to bring it back to -2.0, but it's not the end of the world either way. They didn't adjust either rear camber and left with 1/2 a degree across the axle, which is pretty lame. They did adjust RL toe by 1/64", which is about what you get from loosening and retightening the jam nut, so practically nothing.

You either have to find a shop who will charge you extra for a non-stock alignment *and* has a tech who is smart and conscientious enough to actually get those numbers on the car or do it yourself.

The tech said he modified the stock camber bolt to help position the strut using the camber plates correctly.

I have Steeda Camber Plates.


Got it, better shop needed. Will this do for*now*? Just to make sure my 19x11s fit? If I have to remove the fenderliners oh well no problem.

 

[TeeLew]

At the very least, take it back and have them reset the RR camber to -2.1 to match the left and then clean up the toe from there.

 

[CobaltFilly]

At the very least, take it back and have them reset the RR camber to -2.1 to match the left and then clean up the toe from there.

I will wait for now if it isn't gonna kill anything. Keeping all the sheets so I have proof and such, will take it to a better shop this month. Thanks for your help and explanations for someone (me) who knows nothing about alignment!

 

[TeeLew]

I'd be highly skeptical of someone modifying a strut bolt. If he did the strut bolt hole, that's less of an issue. But, this begs the question. Why didn't he just adjust the strut at the top mount? You have plates. Why was he grinding on shit? The whole idea of getting the plates is to increase the negative camber in the front. Why are you still at stock numbers? This can be -2.5* or so, which will really wake the front up and help you fit the 11's.

 

[CobaltFilly]

I'd be highly skeptical of someone modifying a strut bolt. If he did the strut bolt hole, that's less of an issue. But, this begs the question. Why didn't he just adjust the strut at the top mount? You have plates. Why was he grinding on shit? The whole idea of getting the plates is to increase the negative camber in the front. Why are you still at stock numbers? This can be -2.5* or so, which will really wake the front up and help you fit the 11's.

I called to ask and he said he did use the plates. But I am skeptical.

I believe he modified bolt hole, but I have to crawl under to check.

 

[TeeLew]

I will wait for now if it isn't gonna kill anything. Keeping all the sheets so I have proof and such, will take it to a better shop this month. Thanks for your help and explanations for someone (me) who knows nothing about alignment!

It won't kill anything, but your car will pull to the right a little.

 

[TeeLew]

I called to ask and he said he did use the plates. But I am skeptical.

I believe he modified bolt hole, but I have to crawl under to check.

If he did, you won't be able to tell unless you pull the whole thing apart or there's a witness mark next to the bolt head on the strut flange.

 

[CobaltFilly]

If he did, you won't be able to tell unless you pull the whole thing apart or there's a witness mark next to the bolt head on the strut flange.

Give me 5 mins, lifting up car and removing wheel

 

[CobaltFilly]

If he did, you won't be able to tell unless you pull the whole thing apart or there's a witness mark next to the bolt head on the strut flange.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Camber plate does look maxed?

 

[WItoTX]

Look at the strut top, from above. It might be maxxed in the sense that it will hit because the strut hole has not been opened up.

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