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Getting lighter wheels are a game changer.

MAGS1

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stop right there buddy. The Nitto you’ve listed is a terrible tire. Last thing you want to do is put on a poor quality “performance” tire just because its wider. You’re much better off with a 285 MP4S even if its stretched on a 11” wheel than running that Nitto G2 crap no matter if its a 345 wide tire. At least look for a MPSS for the rear.

But yes tire weight is a factor, so best thing is to compare wheel+tire weight not just wheel weight alone.

FWIW one of the best street tires out there, the Yokohama A052, is also one of the lightest (not not availible in the 19” sizes you’d like).

my fast wheel/tire setup (18x11/18x12” Apex VS5RS with 315/30R18 A052) weighs about 48 lbs total. The tires are about 28.4lbs each on my bathroom scale
I’d even say 295/35 on an 11” wheel. That’s a little closer spec to the suggested 305 on 11”. And there’s good options at 295/35r19 where there’s not many options at 305/35
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LetItRide1978

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stop right there buddy. The Nitto you’ve listed is a terrible tire. Last thing you want to do is put on a poor quality “performance” tire just because its wider. You’re much better off with a 285 MP4S even if its stretched on a 11” wheel than running that Nitto G2 crap no matter if its a 345 wide tire. At least look for a MPSS for the rear.

But yes tire weight is a factor, so best thing is to compare wheel+tire weight not just wheel weight alone.

FWIW one of the best street tires out there, the Yokohama A052, is also one of the lightest (not not availible in the 19” sizes you’d like).

my fast wheel/tire setup (18x11/18x12” Apex VS5RS with 315/30R18 A052) weighs about 48 lbs total. The tires are about 28.4lbs each on my bathroom scale
Haha, I'm aware of how the Nittos compares to the Michelins. I was just using it as an example as it comes with a lot of the wheel and tire packages offered by LMR and others. I just didn't want to have to mix the super sports with the PS4Ss to get the ideal sizes for 19x10 and 19x11 wheels. Although I'm sure it's a lot better than running the Nittos.
 

MAGS1

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Haha, I'm aware of how the Nittos compares to the Michelins. I was just using it as an example as it comes with a lot of the wheel and tire packages offered by LMR and others. I just didn't want to have to mix the super sports with the PS4Ss to get the ideal sizes for 19x10 and 19x11 wheels. Although I'm sure it's a lot better than running the Nittos.
Conti makes the ECS02 in 295/35 that would fit on 11’s. Michelin PS4S also come in 295/35
 

LetItRide1978

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Conti makes the ECS02 in 295/35 that would fit on 11’s. Michelin PS4S also come in 295/35
True, I could go with the Conti's with either 275 or 285 up front with 295 rear. Looks like the PS4S in 295 is a Mercedes spec, according to Tire Rack.
 

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MAGS1

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True, I could go with the Conti's with either 275 or 285 up front with 295 rear. Looks like the PS4S in 295 is a Mercedes spec, according to Tire Rack.
Good point on the Merc spec, I didn’t catch that on Michelin’s site
 

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Little update!
After stepping up to a 285/35 size tire up front my car now tram lines like a B****! The next mod I get will be a steeda G-Trac brace which should hopefully fix that issue! Just an fyi to those stepping up in size:like:
May just be from something about your specific car or a particular model wheel/tire.

I switched to an MPS4s 19" 285/35 square setup in April. Factory PP wheels to 10" 40ET Apex wheels. No tramlining before or after.
 

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Little update!
After stepping up to a 285/35 size tire up front my car now tram lines like a B****! The next mod I get will be a steeda G-Trac brace which should hopefully fix that issue! Just an fyi to those stepping up in size:like:
The only time I ever had an issue with this in my Mach 1 was with the cup 2 tires it came with. Even after the alignment was done still tramlined horribly. As soon as the PS4S went on absolutely no tramlining afterward.
 

NightmareMoon

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The only time I ever had an issue with this in my Mach 1 was with the cup 2 tires it came with. Even after the alignment was done still tramlined horribly. As soon as the PS4S went on absolutely no tramlining afterward.
no or very large tread blocks (cup 2s) or worn down treadblocks will tramline worse, often a lot worse. Usually with 285s or less its only an issue when they’re basically too bald to run anyway, but with 305s and wider it can be a struggle.
 

MAGS1

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no or very large tread blocks (cup 2s) or worn down treadblocks will tramline worse, often a lot worse. Usually with 285s or less its only an issue when they’re basically too bald to run anyway, but with 305s and wider it can be a struggle.
Or if you have roads with stupidly deep grooves in them. We have a few here locally. On decently and well paved roads I have zero issues with my 285’s. The G Trac brace helped a little on those weirdly grooved roads but it’s still a bit of a fight. But that’s more a road issue than the tires
 

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Vertex

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no or very large tread blocks (cup 2s) or worn down treadblocks will tramline worse, often a lot worse. Usually with 285s or less its only an issue when they’re basically too bald to run anyway, but with 305s and wider it can be a struggle.
Well as soon as I replaced the Cup 2's like I said tramline went away immediately and I do have the handling pack on the car so 305 fronts 315 rears. Have experiences absolutely no tramlining with the PS4S and currently have a little over 10k miles on them.
 

Blk16 GTPP1

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I went with p51 wheels if i recall they were 21lbs a wheel. Huge difference from the pp1 wheels. If i ever manage to buy baer eradispeed rotors i can shave another 25ish lbs off the unsprung weight.
Man I’d love to get my hands on a set and eventually prob will but at $900 they’re freaking ridiculously expensive for the PP1 cars. Anyone know if a 2 piece rotor that’s 1/2 way affordable? I can see 4-500 for a pair but $450 a rotor is just crazy to me. Be diff if they were carbon ceramic or something other than steel & alum.
 

Blk16 GTPP1

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Are you guys really noticing a difference with street driving from the lighter wheels? I go back and forth all the time on getting the SVE R350 (19x10, 19x11) wheels, which are about 24 pounds, or 9 pounds lighter than the stock PP1 wheels. Sounds nice until you figure in the extra weight of the tires. A stock 275/40 PS4S tire is 31 pounds while a 305/35 NT555 G2 tire, for example, to fit the 19x11 rear wheel is 35.3 pounds. The net weight savings with that setup would only be 4.7 pounds each for the rear wheels/tires. A pilot super sport in the same size is 31 pounds, same as stock, but then I would have to run a PS4S in the front at 285/35. Someone on here said they run this setup (PS4S in the front and PSS in the rear) and it's just fine but why can't Michelin make the PS4S in 305/35????

Maybe I am overthinking this :crackup:

I really like the stock PP1 wheels so I wouldn't want to spend the money unless there's a noticeable difference on the street, either from the reduced weight or the wider rubber.
Maybe don’t go all the way to an 11” wheel? 10” wheel is still a wide ass wheel and you can still fit a lot of rubber on it.
 

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Man I’d love to get my hands on a set and eventually prob will but at $900 they’re freaking ridiculously expensive for the PP1 cars. Anyone know if a 2 piece rotor that’s 1/2 way affordable? I can see 4-500 for a pair but $450 a rotor is just crazy to me. Be diff if they were carbon ceramic or something other than steel & alum.
I got a set of Steedas on sale for a resonable price on sale. Look for the sales. They’ll still be pricey, but most people don’t burn through rotors that quickly so pay once, cry once or twice.
 

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Actually, try an alignment.

The car shoildn’t tramline badly with 285s unless you’re slightly toe out. Zero toe or slight toe in and it should drive fine.
The car was in perfect alignment before, unless something broke (which it didn’t) there is no reason unbolting old wheels and putting on new ones would cause something to go out of alignment. I am running MPS a/s 4 which might just tram line.
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