ESS Centrifugal Mustang Superchargers

[HKusp]

Hey man, your setup is basically what I've been inputting on the ESS option list. I'm debating 125mm or 120mm pulley. I'm thinking 125 mm pulley to be on the safe side even though 120mm is ok for gen 3 because of direct injection. Just looking for whp in the mid 600 range and just drive the thing. What I'm on the fence is, should I or should I not get FFE headers. Will the stock cats be ok at 600whp levels.? I've read clearance problems with aftermarket header and they can cause false knock.

There are cars over 800whp with the stock cats and they're showing zero signs of exhaust restrictions. You don't NEED LTH's to make the power you are looking for, especially for the cost/effort to install.

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[chohan]

Hey man, your setup is basically what I've been inputting on the ESS option list. I'm debating 125mm or 120mm pulley. I'm thinking 125 mm pulley to be on the safe side even though 120mm is ok for gen 3 because of direct injection. Just looking for whp in the mid 600 range and just drive the thing. What I'm on the fence is, should I or should I not get FFE headers. Will the stock cats be ok at 600whp levels.? I've read clearance problems with aftermarket header and they can cause false knock.

I can't speak to the headers but I have read the same about ppl chasing false knock and not just from headers.

As for the cats, I'm no expert by any stretch but I've read every post by @engineermike and others in this forum on that subject. It's not good to run boost on cats but there are things you can do to monitor and mitigate the risk.
Tell your tuner to leave oem cat protection in place, it adds fuel to cool the cats and fairly quick - like after 4 seconds wot I think so those bad boys must heat up super fast.
Oem cats seem to hold up better than high flow cats. Don't turn it off hot right after a pull or dyno run.. let it idle a bit to cool the cats. Don't do long drawn out highway pulls or repeated pulls close together. Monitor O2 Voltage B1S2 and B2S2 on graph, smoother is better. Choppy - bad. Don't run to much boost, for your octane, where you have to pull back timing too far.

You get the idea. There are no guarantees but common sense can go a long way. We don't have emissions in my county but they do a visual, so I'm taking my chances.

 

[WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot_Ricky]

Hey man, your setup is basically what I've been inputting on the ESS option list. I'm debating 125mm or 120mm pulley. I'm thinking 125 mm pulley to be on the safe side even though 120mm is ok for gen 3 because of direct injection. Just looking for whp in the mid 600 range and just drive the thing. What I'm on the fence is, should I or should I not get FFE headers. Will the stock cats be ok at 600whp levels.? I've read clearance problems with aftermarket header and they can cause false knock.

I went catless LTH knowing i would eventually boost. Gives me peace of mind knowing that its not a point of failure i need to worry about. I've had bad luck with catalytic converters in the past. hopefully my kit will ship in a few weeks and ill get it installed asap. Praying i don't end up chasing false knock, ill let you know if i do though. But the kooks headers had zero clearance issues and seem very well made.

I have the same goals as you but I went G2 with a 120mm pulley. I'm not looking to chase numbers or race anything. i just wanted it for the butt dyno and cool noises lol

 

[Proshop]

What breathers do you recommend for the most racecar smells? I wanna smell and hear more than i feel when i drive <3 that description btw

edit: what would happen if i plumbed both PCVs directly into the sound tube that is now half-deleted in there??

Best and only way to describe it is race car smells and sounds! If you want just filters you can order two of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI2pSw-s_r_gIVtPHjBx1C-w7QEAQYAiABEgKaMvD_BwE
If you want the smell and to catch fluids go with:
https://www.uprproducts.com/11-21-mustang-gt-5-0-or-v6-billet-dual-inlet-breather-tank-plug-n-play/

 

[jmagnus87]

Best and only way to describe it is race car smells and sounds! If you want just filters you can order two of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI2pSw-s_r_gIVtPHjBx1C-w7QEAQYAiABEgKaMvD_BwE
If you want the smell and to catch fluids go with:
https://www.uprproducts.com/11-21-mustang-gt-5-0-or-v6-billet-dual-inlet-breather-tank-plug-n-play/

Thanks man, ordered the two cheap filters, i might go to the can later on down the road but for now those will do.

side note: anyone else test their brand new spark plugs out of the box and do i have the right plugs here? I think i do

please note the ngk box and is that LTR prefix right for the 6510 part number everyone mentions??

 

[Cory S]

Thanks man, ordered the two cheap filters, i might go to the can later on down the road but for now those will do.

side note: anyone else test their brand new spark plugs out of the box and do i have the right plugs here? I think i do

please note the ngk box and is that LTR prefix right for the 6510 part number everyone mentions??

Yep.

 

[Bonedizzle]

Just got my kit installed yesterday and man.... what an ordeal. Loaded the tune from Ortiz performance using my SCT BDX programmer, and the car was running stupid rich. After I was able to get a log, the car would no longer start. Then, my SCT BDX decided to shit itself and bricked. It was getting a CRC error and would no longer connect to the car or computer.

I would need to send the device in to SCT for $200 to see if they can fix it. So even if I get a tune revision I cannot load it to the car.

The car wasn't running long enough for me to diagnose if it was an installer error or tune related. I did not see any leaking injectors. I am running breathers on the valve covers and a cap on the intake where the passenger PCV would connect to, so I do not see how that would cause a vacuum leak. The MAF is pointed in the correct direction with the pocket facing the passenger side. My BOV is one of the older kits Precision units. Even if it is bad wouldn't the car still idle correctly?

My log file is below if anyone wants to look at it. Running stupid rich.

 

[Proshop]

Just got my kit installed yesterday and man.... what an ordeal. Loaded the tune from Ortiz performance using my SCT BDX programmer, and the car was running stupid rich. After I was able to get a log, the car would no longer start. Then, my SCT BDX decided to shit itself and bricked. It was getting a CRC error and would no longer connect to the car or computer.

I would need to send the device in to SCT for $200 to see if they can fix it. So even if I get a tune revision I cannot load it to the car.

The car wasn't running long enough for me to diagnose if it was an installer error or tune related. I did not see any leaking injectors. I am running breathers on the valve covers and a cap on the intake where the passenger PCV would connect to, so I do not see how that would cause a vacuum leak. The MAF is pointed in the correct direction with the pocket facing the passenger side. My BOV is one of the older kits Precision units. Even if it is bad wouldn't the car still idle correctly?

My log file is below if anyone wants to look at it. Running stupid rich.

So you installed it or a shop did? MAF would have been my first guess, but you have that correctly per the directions. I’m gonna lean towards tune issue as of right now.

 

[Bonedizzle]

I installed the kit.

One note on the MAF. I had to reroute my expansion tank hose and some coolant got on the steel tube the MAF sits in. I took the MAF out and there was a small amount of coolant that was on it (the plastic body, not the wire/transistor thing) that I wiped off. Could I have contaminated the MAF?

I was hoping someone could read their log and see if MAF frequency at idle is matching what my log is showing.

 

[Proshop]

I installed the kit.

One note on the MAF. I had to reroute my expansion tank hose and some coolant got on the steel tube the MAF sits in. I took the MAF out and there was a small amount of coolant that was on it (the plastic body, not the wire/transistor thing) that I wiped off. Could I have contaminated the MAF?

I was hoping someone could read their log and see if MAF frequency at idle is matching what my log is showing.

Highly doubt it messed up the maf but you never know. I looked at your log and I can’t stand trying to read that type makes my old eyes hurt . I’ll check it vs my HP Tuners log and see thou.

 

[Proshop]

@Bonedizzle so the highest rpm you got to was 980 @ 3.59 lb/min. On my first log (after kit was installed )a 4k rev at 973 rpm’s I was at 1.53 lb/min. So the two are definitely way off. I was at 2769 rpm’s when my maf finally read 3.56 lb/min.

 

[HKusp]

MAF pocket towards the direction of airflow, yes? I'm not familiar with the intake configuration on the ESS kits, but just making sure.

 

[Proshop]

MAF pocket towards the direction of airflow, yes? I'm not familiar with the intake configuration on the ESS kits, but just making sure.

Yes.. airflow comes from the passenger side.

 

[stungjoe]

I installed the kit.

One note on the MAF. I had to reroute my expansion tank hose and some coolant got on the steel tube the MAF sits in. I took the MAF out and there was a small amount of coolant that was on it (the plastic body, not the wire/transistor thing) that I wiped off. Could I have contaminated the MAF?

I was hoping someone could read their log and see if MAF frequency at idle is matching what my log is showing.

For peace of mind they do make MAF cleaner

 

[LuciferMustang]

Anyone install an ESS kit with the BOSS 302 Manifold? I am getting last minute decisions and I might switch over. Any extra parts or tubing needed? My kit arrives Friday.

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