PP2 Cooling Upgrades? Per criticism…

[Flyhalf]

you need to go out there and set a baseline. there's tons of factors in play - how you drive, when you shift, track layout, elevation changes, ambient temps play huge role, and on and on. the setup that @Flyhalf has would be an overkill for most people, just because how much skill and courage he has to push the car .

if you are just starting track driving, don't overthink it. you won't be able to push the limits of this car unless you have exceptional driving talent. take the car out to a track, see how it behaves and go from there. when I took my PP1 to my first ever event, the car was bone stock and it did just fine. if you see temps creeping up more than you want, just move your shifting point from 7k to 6.5k RPM. it won't make any big difference for your HPDE experience, and you'll see temps go back to tolerable. listen to your instructor )))

once you do couple events, you will know much better where you need to put your money and effort.

100%.agreed
It is like buying the most fancy boxing gloves cause i heard "they punch better" without even having had a boxing lesson. (hope this metaphor makes sense lol)
My advice is always the same.
Test stock. 2 or 3 times.and then evolve with the car. If u put bunch of stuff all together and something is wrong you dont know what is wrong and what is right.
Drive shaft. Half shaft. Are all fancy things that dont do anything at a lower level tracking
The pp1 pp2 radiator is the same of 350 .so.you are good.
The roush louvers dont do anything. If you want real functional RACELOUVERS are the top for cooling and downforce. Followed by track spec louvers (which are less aggressive)
Both don't have rain trays. So for daily might be an issue.
Ale

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[Redmcguire]

I'm sure you have it in your list, but will still mention it - while you have suspension taken apart, add a set of camber plates to the front. you don't want to pay for the same job to take everything apart twice.

10" 285 would need camber adjustments- or just at the track?

 

[Redmcguire]

100%.agreed
It is like buying the most fancy boxing gloves cause i heard "they punch better" without even having had a boxing lesson. (hope this metaphor makes sense lol)
My advice is always the same.
Test stock. 2 or 3 times.and then evolve with the car. If u put bunch of stuff all together and something is wrong you dont know what is wrong and what is right.
Drive shaft. Half shaft. Are all fancy things that dont do anything at a lower level tracking
The pp1 pp2 radiator is the same of 350 .so.you are good.
The roush louvers dont do anything. If you want real functional RACELOUVERS are the top for cooling and downforce. Followed by track spec louvers (which are less aggressive)
Both don't have rain trays. So for daily might be an issue.
Ale

Thanks both, feel confident about my course of action now. Pony will be complete this week until baseline and off of warranty

 

[Flyhalf]

Last note. The "viscosity oil myth".
"I put thicker oil and life problems went away"....is sometime over estimate.

A thicker oil does not reduce temps
What it does it allows you to sustain higher temps without loosing the lubrication effect of the oil.
A thicker oil helps the engine to work at 280f without issue. Same with diff.
But a thicker oil also increases temps. Yes it does.
And last. Your diff is depending on oil viscosity. Changing it might modify the way it works.

 

[tosha]

10" 285 would need camber adjustments- or just at the track?

regardless of tire sizes, you want proper camber setup at the fronts to prevent tire destruction and to mend some of the understeer. without that, you'd be chewing up outsides of your tires and sending them to garbage bin much sooner. street driving with -2.5 camber is totally fine, you don't have to do alignment before and after each track event.

it's one of those things that you will end up doing anyways, so why not do it while everything is already taken apart

 

[luc]

Thanks. keep an eye on engine temps as I increase heat. Rosh vents the quarter panels, some run louvers on top. Beyond airflow and oil viscosity, you think the PP1/2 engine cooler is insufficient? Wrapping rear exhaust around the diff and running redline in the diff.

Depend how fast you are. But yes, the factory oil-to-water cooler is not that good and also put a lot of heat in the coolant
Best is to remove it and run an oil-to—air cooler
I run an Harrop that sit parallel to the ground

 

[13GetThere]

Damn I love these eye poking, face slapping arguments. Even if they're off topic. I have learned a lot.
The problem I'm having, is that the gained knowledge has now caused confusion in decision making. So I have to ask a question. Will the Rear wheels and tires of the PP2 fit on the front of the PP2 without spacers or anything else?
Love the square tires, not the staggered wheels.

 

[luc]

Damn I love these eye poking, face slapping arguments. Even if they're off topic. I have learned a lot.
The problem I'm having, is that the gained knowledge has now caused confusion in decision making. So I have to ask a question. Will the Rear wheels and tires of the PP2 fit on the front of the PP2 without spacers or anything else?
Love the square tires, not the staggered wheels.

Nope. Wrong offset for that

 

[13GetThere]

Nope. Wrong offset for that

Man, you just broke my heart, but thanks.

 

[Ewheels]

Man, you just broke my heart, but thanks.

To further what @luc said, the PP2 rear wheels would need a 1" spacer to fit on the front.
Equally, the PP2 front wheels would stick out about an inch if mounted on the rear.

 

[13GetThere]

Wasn't going to put the front wheels on the rear. I was just thinking of getting a pair of the rear FP wheels for the front so I could get square wheel and tire setup. I'm a cheap bastard, and I'll have to keep looking.

 

[luc]

Wasn't going to put the front wheels on the rear. I was just thinking of getting a pair of the rear FP wheels for the front so I could get square wheel and tire setup. I'm a cheap bastard, and I'll have to keep looking.

There isn’t that many solutions
Either you use a 52 offset all the way around with 1” spacer in front or you need wheels with different offset for fr an rear

 

[Ewheels]

Wasn't going to put the front wheels on the rear. I was just thinking of getting a pair of the rear FP wheels for the front so I could get square wheel and tire setup. I'm a cheap bastard, and I'll have to keep looking.

SVE SP2 wheels look just like OEM PP2. You could buy a pair in 19x11 +50 and get 1" spacers. That's probably the cheapest route to take.

I know your pain; I'm a cheap bastard too

 

[13GetThere]

So

SVE SP2 wheels look just like OEM PP2. You could buy a pair in 19x11 +50 and get 1" spacers. That's probably the cheapest route to take.

I know your pain; I'm a cheap bastard too

I think you just answered the question I was typing, except for the +50

 

[13GetThere]

Okay, did a little research, and now understand the +50.

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