B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[FreePenguin]

I thought someone proved that the bass roll off is already disabled on the 2021's with B&O? Said the Forscan setting was already in the disabled setting.

Unfamiliar with this news. I’d double check
I kinda doubt it. Ford has it to prevent rattles etc and save speakers

It’s also one in the same anc in ecoboost, so those cars certainly have it surely

Point meaning diff models will possibly have on and off.

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[wadewolf76]

Unfamiliar with this news. I’d double check
I kinda doubt it. Ford has it to prevent rattles etc and save speakers

It’s also one in the same anc in ecoboost, so those cars certainly have it surely

Point meaning diff models will possibly have on and off.

think it was this thread but I may be confused

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/forscan-eq-disable-issue.156548/

 

[wadewolf76]

Looking at it in forscan my DSP module as built isnt even the same numbers, unless i have something very wrong. Maybe its different in 2021

 

[Gregs24]

Did this swap today and I really thought it would sound way better based off what everyone has said in posts. 2021 Gt B&O. Broke all but one tab off on the grill but I didn't break the ring at least.

Sound wise I would say it is tighter but not exactly clean. The posts with others wondering about the phase has me thinking maybe I need to pull it out and swap the wires around to see if it would sound better. Right now I have it wired black and purple wires to negative, the green and yellow wires to positive.

You have the correct wiring.

Did you use polyfill?

Have you added additional sound deadening in the boot ?

The bass is actually over compensated on 2019 cars, so backing it off and increasing the volume helps. Not sure about 2021 cars.

 

[FreePenguin]

Looking at it in forscan my DSP module as built isnt even the same numbers, unless i have something very wrong. Maybe its different in 2021

Acm
Not dsp

Oh also if anyone changes bass roll off, you need to see chimes to ipc as well or chimes etc super loud

It’s better this way though so no biggie

 

[steve0s550]

Did post number 1 today in this thread, took about an hour. Was able to order the pioneer sub from amazon and had next day delivery. Decided to drill all new screws rather than try and drill next to the factory ones, this way none of the factory holes get messed up for if i remount the factory sub for a trade in or whatnot. Tip, drill a pilot hole for each screw, the plastic is soft and that way your mounting screws will have something to grab onto when mounting. Not sure i wired it correctly but its working and has a noticably deeper bass and punch than the factory.

I did this swap last week and should've chimed in. I didn't drill new holes, instead I took tin snips and cut the subs holes. I also laid the the grill on the sub, marked the spots and snipped and folded the lip so the grill would lay flush on the sub. I then used the OEM screws to secure it all back together. Also used 8oz of poly fill and pulled wires from clips. They lock in very good to the pioneer subs spring connectors. Start to finish was about 45 minutes.

 

[Nardly]

I did this swap last week and should've chimed in. I didn't drill new holes, instead I took tin snips and cut the subs holes. I also laid the the grill on the sub, marked the spots and snipped and folded the lip so the grill would lay flush on the sub. I then used the OEM screws to secure it all back together. Also used 8oz of poly fill and pulled wires from clips. They lock in very good to the pioneer subs spring connectors. Start to finish was about 45 minutes.

[/QUOTE
How does it sound now compared to the old sub?

 

[steve0s550]

It sounds a lot better to me. Definitely tightend things up and I can feel the base in my seat now depending on song. I'm happy I did it and wish I did it sooner.

 

[wadewolf76]

Acm
Not dsp

Oh also if anyone changes bass roll off, you need to see chimes to ipc as well or chimes etc super loud

It’s better this way though so no biggie

Yeah I finally figured that out late last night. Mine is already set to 0 so I guess that other thread was correct.

I did add some polyfill as well.

I think I'm just used to it being so boomy at low volume so it seems like nothing changed. Fiddled with the EQ settings and turned it up past 12 and now I'm hearing the difference.
Thanks for the help!

 

[FreePenguin]

I am sure its already this. but here's the info again.

 

[murick]

I've found some good points to time mark in the video but watch it and see if that is useful:
00:25 - OEM connector disassembly
02:10 - Taking of the bezel of the mesh without breaking the bezel

The part where you showed how the bezel was fastened to the mesh was super helpful .

 

[murick]

Hello guys,

I believe I read the rest of the thread but did not find any definitive answer to the question raised by @Pero. Did any of you figure it out?

I am planning on doing the swap myself, and I guess, I might as well just try watching how the original sub is kicking and then verify that the replacement sub is kicking in sync. Though I have no experience with subs and I am not sure if the visual cues will be easily comparable between the two.

I do not believe that measuring the voltage on the cable would yield anything useful, if the original sub was intentionally "inversed".

I know that.
But I asked ChipG with intention. He might have a different conclusion about polarity.
I have noticed on my Pioneer sub, once connected in B&O system as described in the very first post here, that cone is kicking inwards on bass pulse. Is it possible that we have wrong connection "diagram" and consequentially driving our subs out of phase?
When I exchange the wires, loudspeaker cone starts kicking outwards.
Does anyone else noticed this phenomena?

I'm interested in hearing the responses to this.

You are correct, if the cone goes inward on the base notes, this typically means the polarity is reversed.

I haven't watched the speaker while on as I hadn't noticed anything that seemed amiss, but I'll try to remember to check it out this weekend.

There was a reply from @Gregs24 (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/post-3206289), which I am unable to add to the quote, which mentions some other thread as a reference for wiring, but I was not able to find the info in that thread too.

Voice coil supplies are in phase. Or else I would not get much movement of the cone.
But I will try to play with phase of both channels simultaneous to hear the difference.

 

[Pero]

Hello guys,

I believe I read the rest of the thread but did not find any definitive answer to the question raised by @Pero. Did any of you figure it out?

I am planning on doing the swap myself, and I guess, I might as well just try watching how the original sub is kicking and then verify that the replacement sub is kicking in sync. Though I have no experience with subs and I am not sure if the visual cues will be easily comparable between the two.

I do not believe that measuring the voltage on the cable would yield anything useful, if the original sub was intentionally "inversed".

There was a reply from @Gregs24 (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/post-3206289), which I am unable to add to the quote, which mentions some other thread as a reference for wiring, but I was not able to find the info in that thread too.

Hi murick, I checked some pictures of my final connection of Pioneer Sub.
It looks that I was most satisifed with Green (+) and Black (-) on one coil and Yellow (+) and Pink (-) on other coil. This is producing the best sound for my ears.
So it could not be completely wrong.

 

[Gregs24]

Hello guys,

I believe I read the rest of the thread but did not find any definitive answer to the question raised by @Pero. Did any of you figure it out?

I am planning on doing the swap myself, and I guess, I might as well just try watching how the original sub is kicking and then verify that the replacement sub is kicking in sync. Though I have no experience with subs and I am not sure if the visual cues will be easily comparable between the two.

I do not believe that measuring the voltage on the cable would yield anything useful, if the original sub was intentionally "inversed".




There was a reply from @Gregs24 (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/post-3206289), which I am unable to add to the quote, which mentions some other thread as a reference for wiring, but I was not able to find the info in that thread too.

The wiring colours and orientation are in post #1

Black and purple are negative, green and yellow are positive.

Remember this is a properly controlled sub and relatively low sensitivity, so is tight and musical NOT boomy so may sound 'quieter'

 

[Gregs24]

Hi murick, I checked some pictures of my final connection of Pioneer Sub.
It looks that I was most satisifed with Green (+) and Black (-) on one coil and Yellow (+) and Pink (-) on other coil. This is producing the best sound for my ears.
So it could not be completely wrong.

Are they really the colours of the wires feeding your oem sub?. Different to mine if they are.

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