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DougS550

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I've never understood this thought process. How does a 30-50% engineering margin lead people to believe it's a good idea to subject the motor to 2x that and think they can get away with it?

Surely just buy some proper rods and low comp pistons from the get go?
If I take it regularly to the track sure.
In the immediate sense I'm staying on 93 octane and a Sunoco 260GT fuel tune and 115mm pulley (8.5‐9psi) I have a free flowing exhaust, but with stock headers. The ESS intake is 4" at the filter mount. I think a 4.5" might yield a little more power and boost though. I definitely think 800whp is possible on an 11psi pulley, exhaust and good race fuel and less intake restriction, but I think at that level you might experience other types of restrictions on the engine/drive train. As far as the drive train, if you're going to spend a lot of time on prepped surfaces imo it would be wise to upgrade the suspension and axles before you experience a break, which will ultimately cost more money to fix and upgrade versus just upgrading in advance.
Thanks for the reply. I have already installed BMR rear suspension upgrades. If I'm bored this winter I will put CF drive shaft, Ford Performance Axles. Hey, did you go with a One Piece Drive Shaft and axles?
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DougS550

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Be careful what you ask for, talking to Kelly of kelltrac the other day. I think it was a diff ear that broke, led to driveshaft braking, and then it caused a ton of damage underneath and maybe a half shift went too.
Ya your right on that, its not just a part failure which happens, its the associated Collateral damages which cost. Thanks
 

TEXAS HEAT

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For all those interested... The install is almost complete. I installed the larger injectors tonight and a few other odds and ends. The only thing left is getting the belt around the last pulley, adding coolant, leak testing and a final inspection to make sure everything is installed correctly. Here are some of tonight's pictures.

20210913_204317.jpg


20210913_204023.jpg
 

TEXAS HEAT

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If I take it regularly to the track sure.

Thanks for the reply. I have already installed BMR rear suspension upgrades. If I'm bored this winter I will put CF drive shaft, Ford Performance Axles. Hey, did you go with a One Piece Drive Shaft and axles?
I'm still on the stock axles and stock driveshaft. I'm also still in the middle of the SC install. As soon as I am done I will most likely upgrade the half shafts. I too, have the rear IRS upgraded with BMR lockouts and 762's.
 

Exploded_Muffin

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For all those interested... The install is almost complete. I installed the larger injectors tonight and a few other odds and ends. The only thing left is getting the belt around the last pulley, adding coolant, leak testing and a final inspection to make sure everything is installed correctly. Here are some of tonight's pictures.
Nice! You're almost done
You got the 47 lb/hr injectors right?
Have you got your tune from Lund yet and will you be locking out your IMRCs?

For your 115mm pulley if you're using the belt recommended by ESS/Brevin (K061025) you will have a hell of time getting it to fit. I originally ordered the K061033 as a couple other people did for the 115mm pulley.
The K061033 belt seemed to fit well but Brevin recommended I switch to the K061025 belt supplied with the kit. I managed to get the K061025 belt to fit after struggling for an hour.....wasn't fun at all. It honestly seemed too tight to me as the tensioner pulley was maxed out but the car drove fine with it on. Just my experience

Silly me didn't think to do a leak test when I was done so will do that over the weekend.

Thanks for all your detailed posts, will be very helpful for people installing this in future
 

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TEXAS HEAT

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Nice! You're almost done
You got the 47 lb/hr injectors right?
Have you got your tune from Lund yet and will you be locking out your IMRCs?

For your 115mm pulley if you're using the belt recommended by ESS/Brevin (K061025) you will have a hell of time getting it to fit. I originally ordered the K061033 as a couple other people did for the 115mm pulley.
The K061033 belt seemed to fit well but Brevin recommended I switch to the K061025 belt supplied with the kit. I managed to get the K061025 belt to fit after struggling for an hour.....wasn't fun at all. It honestly seemed too tight to me as the tensioner pulley was maxed out but the car drove fine with it on. Just my experience

Silly me didn't think to do a leak test when I was done so will do that over the weekend.

Thanks for all your detailed posts, will be very helpful for people installing this in future
Yes, I have Lu47's and a BAP.

I have my base tune file from Lund already flashed onto the car and currently the IMRC's are still active. I probably won't lock them out unless my tuner makes the suggestion to do so. Are yours deleted?

I struggled like hell last night to get the (K061025) belt around the smaller idler pulley and I too had the tensioner maxed out as far as it would go, but my wife lacked the physical strength to get the belt on. I have a buddy coming by this afternoon to assist with that effort. Hopefully I'll be able to start it up today.

You're welcome and thanks to you and everyone else that has contributed to this thread, it definitely helped knowing in advance some of the issues others were experiencing. It sure saved me a lot of time and some head scratching, so I felt obligated to share my experience with the install in hopes that someone finds it useful and potentially time saving.

The only other mod that I failed to list is that I'm now running a Reische 170 degree thermostat with the blower instead of stock. I'm not sure that it makes a whole lot of difference performance wise, but anything to keep cylinder head temps down is a win in my book.

The install video shows the belt routing, but very briefly and when you push pause it becomes grainy. Attached is a picture copy of the belt routing in case someone needs it, compliments of Brevin for the image.

IMG_3427 (1).jpg
 

kevinvan6000

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Having swapped the pulley 3 times now, I completely understand the difficulty with the belt. I have to enlist either my 17 or 15 year old sons to help hold the tensioner in place. I personally stretch the belt over the SC pulley, but I think the recommended method is push it under the smooth idler pulley. I'm sure you will get it to go. I'd also like to say thanks for posting the detailed pics, I'm sure it will be valuable for folks in the future.
 

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I asked Lund about locking out, they prefer them not locked (or at least they did on mine centri 2020 car).
 

TEXAS HEAT

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Having swapped the pulley 3 times now, I completely understand the difficulty with the belt. I have to enlist either my 17 or 15 year old sons to help hold the tensioner in place. I personally stretch the belt over the SC pulley, but I think the recommended method is push it under the smooth idler pulley. I'm sure you will get it to go. I'd also like to say thanks for posting the detailed pics, I'm sure it will be valuable for folks in the future.
I'm attempting the recommended method of going under the upper idler with it currently wrapped around the SC pulley and it's still very difficult to slip on even with the tensioner maxed (bottomed) out.
 

kenand1988

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I'm attempting the recommended method of going under the upper idler with it currently wrapped around the SC pulley and it's still very difficult to slip on even with the tensioner maxed (bottomed) out.
Oh yeah I remember the belt for 8.5 psi pulley was pretty difficult. I had to have a friend max out the tensioner and then and only then was I able to slip it over the one of the idler pulleys. It's possible just very tight. The belt for the 11 psi pulley was not at tight of a fit.
 

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Oh yeah I remember the belt for 8.5 psi pulley was pretty difficult. I had to have a friend max out the tensioner and then and only then was I able to slip it over the one of the idler pulleys. It's possible just very tight. The belt for the 11 psi pulley was not at tight of a fit.
they make belts in all kinds of lengths. Have you tried McMaster or a belt-supply house? The belts are nothing special. Shame on the vendor not matching belts to pully size.
 

TEXAS HEAT

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they make belts in all kinds of lengths. Have you tried McMaster or a belt-supply house? The belts are nothing special. Shame on the vendor not matching belts to pully size.
I really don't think the belt is improperly matched, initially it's just an extremely tight fit. Once the belt stretches it is supposed to be perfect to prevent slip. It's definitely a PITA to get on though and after multiple attempts the belt still isn't on. Honestly this is my first SC install so I really have no point of reference for how hard or how tight the belt is supposed to be. Who knew this would be the hardest part of the install? I'm physically whooped right now and just want the car to be finished. Looks like tomorrow I'll try again.
 

TEXAS HEAT

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Oh yeah I remember the belt for 8.5 psi pulley was pretty difficult. I had to have a friend max out the tensioner and then and only then was I able to slip it over the one of the idler pulleys. It's possible just very tight. The belt for the 11 psi pulley was not at tight of a fit.
If I had the octane and fuel system to support the 11psi pulley I would go that route knowing that getting the belt on would be easier. Lol After multiple attempts today, It's still a no-go with the recommended belt.
 

DougS550

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I really don't think the belt is improperly matched, initially it's just an extremely tight fit. Once the belt stretches it is supposed to be perfect to prevent slip. It's definitely a PITA to get on though and after multiple attempts the belt still isn't on.
If I had the octane and fuel system to support the 11psi pulley I would go that route knowing that getting the belt on would be easier. Lol After multiple attempts today, It's still a no-go with the recommended belt.
The belt should go on without issue with tensioner backed out. I would measure belt and get with Gates and buy one One Size Longer. No Serpitene belts stretch that much. They stretch when over tightened. Good Luck
 

TEXAS HEAT

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The belt should go on without issue with tensioner backed out. I would measure belt and get with Gates and buy one One Size Longer. No Serpentine belts stretch that much. They stretch when over tightened. Good Luck
The tensioner is fully released and the belt will not go on without greater effort than has already been expended. The only way I see it going on is with some sort of pry bar or Godzilla strength. Other's are saying that the belt will fit, but in my case it seems almost impossible. I think the next size up is 23mm longer which is less than an inch. It's the K061033 from Gates. I am willing to go that route at this point, but I am wondering what are the consequences of doing so... less tension, less boost and potentially belt slip? My understanding is that 1/2" slack is ideal.
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