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ESS Centrifugal Mustang Superchargers
- Thread starter MustangorCamaro
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- Watchers 257
kevinvan6000
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Knocked out in first round. Ran against a Trackhawk, which ended up eventually winning the class I was in. AWD is a huge advantage on the surface we were running on.
kevinvan6000
Well-Known Member
Wasn't the camo one, but it was there. I believe it was one of his customers though. There was 4 or 5 Trackhawks there altogether.
pittzy23
Well-Known Member
Got a chance to get to the track today with the new kit installed. Have a basically stock A10 Gen 3 with a tire, some small suspension upgrades, and the G2 kit on the dinner plate pulley (125mm) with 93 octane tune. was hoping to dip into the 10s on the most base kit but just couldnt get my 60ft down to push me into them (ran consistent 1.84X-1.86X regardless of how I took off). The new setup, along with Daryle's (@Wengerd Performance ) tune worked great. at least got some good data for when I pulley down / run e85 next year with the new fuel system.
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TEXAS HEAT
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@Brevin_G4_SS There's an allen head bolt that isn't immediately obvious as to where it goes, for those who completed the install perhaps you can advise me which location it is destined for? See image below: (red arrow)
TEXAS HEAT
Well-Known Member
I spent most of today mounting the SC bracket and the supercharger. I finished buttoning up all charge pipes. I will also confirm that on 2018-up modification is needed on the valve cover and the radiator hose which needs an inch cut off of the end to make it fit on the new thermostat housing and not be bound up and touch the fan. Here's some photo's of the process in reverse order of course. The other thing to note is that I personally recommend using Blue Loctite on the SC mounting bracket bolts. This will help to prevent vibration from backing them off. I did not use ant specific torque values, but you will feel when it's tight enough. I did use 5 lb/ft on all of the t-bolt clamps.
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TEXAS HEAT
Well-Known Member
The tab from the red arrow down to the next tab to the right on the valve cover will need to be removed to create the necessary clearance. It will break off pretty easy with small pliers or even a small screwdriver. I used a combination of both and then cleaned it up with a sanding bit on a Dremel tool which makes it look less of an eye sore and factory fresh. That isn't necessary, but I'm anal like that.
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TEXAS HEAT
Well-Known Member
Also keep in mind as you attach the coolant hose to the thermostat housing be sure to rotate the hose clamp (highest part) to the left, otherwise it will come into contact with the bracket and potentially be a source of false knock. I didn't notice this until after I mounted the supercharger to the bracket, which resulted in me having to remove the SC and front bracket to rotate it out of the way. (the picture shows it in the incorrect location)The tab from the red arrow down to the next tab to the right on the valve cover will need to be removed to create the necessary clearance. It will break off pretty easy with small pliers or even a small screwdriver. I used a combination of both and then cleaned it up with a sanding bit on a Dremel tool which makes it look less of an eye sore and factory fresh. That isn't necessary, but I'm anal like that.
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DougS550
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Every one appreciates your detailed postings. Are you going E85, LTH, CAI?. I really want a minimum of 800 RWHP out of my FI system on my stock engine, transmission. As far as replacing all of the drive train stuff, I might just wait until they snap before changing them. I would be interested in how well they will hold up for me before breaking. Plus it would be good feed back for other members who are going my direction. ThanksAlso keep in mind as you attach the coolant hose to the thermostat housing be sure to rotate the hose clamp (highest part) to the left, otherwise it will come into contact with the bracket and potentially be a source of false knock. I didn't notice this until after I mounted the supercharger to the bracket, which resulted in me having to remove the SC and front bracket to rotate it out of the way. (the picture shows it in the incorrect location)
shogun32
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I've never understood this thought process. How does a 30-50% engineering margin lead people to believe it's a good idea to subject the motor to 2x that and think they can get away with it?
Surely just buy some proper rods and low comp pistons from the get go?
kenand1988
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800... hell 1000 is doable. I am not saying it's safe though. The ecm in the s550s is actually way more safe to tune properly than a ls setup because it has some additional safety checks that can be incorporated into the tune. I am still on the 11 psi pulley which made near 800 on the g2 and e54. I do not thrash this car though. My tuner has only seen 1 Mustang fail with boost at 1000 hp and they tracked the car quite a bit. I think I can get away with it because the tune is good (I've never even seen knock on all my logs) and because I do not drive it like I stole it.
TEXAS HEAT
Well-Known Member
In the immediate sense I'm staying on 93 octane and a Sunoco 260GT fuel tune and 115mm pulley (8.5‐9psi) I have a free flowing exhaust, but with stock headers. The ESS intake is 4" at the filter mount. I think a 4.5" might yield a little more power and boost though. I definitely think 800whp is possible on an 11psi pulley, exhaust and good race fuel and less intake restriction, but I think at that level you might experience other types of restrictions on the engine/drive train. As far as the drive train, if you're going to spend a lot of time on prepped surfaces imo it would be wise to upgrade the suspension and axles before you experience a break, which will ultimately cost more money to fix and upgrade versus just upgrading in advance.
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andrewtac
Well-Known Member
Be careful what you ask for, talking to Kelly of kelltrac the other day. I think it was a diff ear that broke, led to driveshaft braking, and then it caused a ton of damage underneath and maybe a half shift went too.
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