Cracks in Hood Support

[Houston Kid]

Does anyone have this happening on the underside of their hood? The metal framing/supports are cracked in the same spot on both sides. It’s not a scratch. It is cracked all the way through on both sides. There were 5 2020 GT500s on the cruise today. Mine has the most miles at 1,000 and been tracked and likely driven the hardest. Two of the other 4 cars have what appears to be the start of a crack on one side in the exact same spot.

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[Snoopy49]

The hood is a composite plastic similar to fiberglass. But it shouldn't have cracks.

 

[Houston Kid]

This is in the framing support which I think is metal. It is not the hood itself.

 

[The Chairman]

This is in the framing support which I think is metal. It is not the hood itself.

Nothing like that on my hood.
The framing appears to be made of the same composite as the top section.

 

[Warpath]

Damn, I'm sorry to see this. Gonna check mine right meow.

 

[Houston Kid]

Nothing like that on my hood.
The framing appears to be made of the same composite as the top section.

After I found it I had to head out so I did not look closely enough to determine if it was metal or composite. I said metal because the cracks look like grey metal under the paint. Almost primer color. I don’t know what the composite color is. It may very well be composite.

 

[FASTCARS]

After I found it I had to head out so I did not look closely enough to determine if it was metal or composite. I said metal because the cracks look like grey metal under the paint. Almost primer color. I don’t know what the composite color is. It may very well be composite.

I believe it is a SMC (sheet molding compound) hood. That reinforcement definitely looks like it is also SMC.

 

[Epiphany]

I reported on all of this a long time ago. The hood skin and support structure (as well as the fenders) are indeed SMC and all are coming from CSP.

Thanks for the heads up on the cracks at those specific ribbed areas.

 

[Houston Kid]

Looking at it more closely both crack are directly below where the adjustable rubber stops come in contact with the hood. I’ve not adjusted the stops at all. I’m guessing that has something to do with the cracks.

 

[kilobravo]

Good eye, HK and it would be quite the coincidence if they were not related, I'd guess. Haven't checked mine, yet she's double covered while I've been slinging polishing compound. :-)

 

[Tomster]

Possibly from having monkey sex on top of the hood?

 

[biminiLX]

Hood should be all SMC.
I’d guess that’s paint or primer cracking in that ribbing section.
-J

 

[Melmark93]

Looking at it more closely both crack are directly below where the adjustable rubber stops come in contact with the hood. I’ve not adjusted the stops at all. I’m guessing that has something to do with the cracks.

Mine has a crack just like yours on the passenger side near the bump stop, but the same place on the driver side has only a hint of a crack. Every where else is ok. Your white makes them really show up. On kona blue I would have never spotted them even though lint from a dust towel had snagged on the crack. I have 1800 street miles on the OD, but until I lubed the hood locks, I had to drop the hood from about 18" to get them to latch. Now you can just push it shut with your hand.

 

[Epiphany]

This is an interesting one and I'm eager to inspect my own.

The rib/flange doesn't appear to be defective, ie, inconsistent thickness or contour, etc. Then you have it happening an near the exact same spot on both sides along with the OP witnessing the same conditions on other cars. Logic would point to an issue with design and an inherent weak point. In my head I would tend to believe there is a dynamic situation between the stop (either heighth, location, or both), the hood pin (it's location), and the centrally located hood latch.

Take a look at this posted shot again...

You have the outboard front corner of the hood (located directly above the headlamps) which tries to lift when at speed but is being held down by the pin and that fracture point is on a plane between the two.

You have proximity to the stop and if not adjusted properly can cause a stress or strain in that area - especially if the hood is lowered at an accelerated rate. Ford does recommend shutting the hood by dropping it that last ~10" or so...

Then you have the center latch working to capture the hood (which slows the downward acceleration when dropping it to shut it) that needs to work in sync with the pin and the stop.

Exactly what combination (or condition) when shutting directs the most damaging force to that spot along the rib/flange? And would a thickened rib in the design have mitigated this problem?

It'll be interesting to see as time passes how prevalent this issue is and will we suddenly notice thickened ribs on 2021's...?

 

[Tomster]

Well, since mine went over 180 MPH, I guess I can go out an look at mine and see if it is a dynamic pressure issue. I'll report back later.

Edit to add:
No cracks. My money is on my original theory.....

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