Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[Dun5]

It is the angle, tightening the screws down causes the top hats to tip inward and this allows the fuel to leak out of the top hat. DW 95s are same length as LU47s that were originally shipped with my stage 1 kit. The difference is that aftermarket injectors usually have these top hats that allows them to extend to the same length as the LU47 body length, top hats are similar with ID1050x, etc, but unsure if those would leak.

DW95, the leak happens where the clip is on the top hat.

LU47, no top hats, no leak.

Wondering if anyone is using other injectors with a solid body at or above 95 lbs/hr, aka 1000cc+?

Luckily I didn’t have a leak with the DW95s. I would have went with the DW88lb injectors because they are a one piece just like the lu47 injectors. Only reason I did is because they don’t tune very well per tuner.

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[Kona 18]

Also a quick questions, has anyone found an upgrade to the tensioner for the 6 rib setup? I really don't like how chintzy it is.

Luckily I didn’t have a leak with the DW95s. I would have went with the DW88lb injectors because they are a one piece just like the lu47 injectors. Only reason I did is because they don’t tune very well per tuner.

DW88's work great, good injector data on them too. I was going to run them only 18 but I got a good deal on my 95's from a friend who upgraded to 1700s

 

[Dun5]

DW88's work great, good injector data on them too. I was going to run them only 18 but I got a good deal on my 95's from a friend who upgraded to 1700s

I would have much rather went with the 88s. The DW 95s sit on the SC when installed they collect more heat. The DW95 are the short injector with the top hat so to make them the length of lu47. It puts the plug further down and if not careful will sit on valve cover and make it harder to connect the plug to the injector.

 

[Kona 18]

I would have much rather went with the 88s. The DW 95s sit on the SC when installed they collect more heat. The DW95 are the short injector with the top hat so to make them the length of lu47. It puts the plug further down and if not careful will sit on valve cover and make it harder to connect the plug to the injector.

Yeah, the connector sits low, which kinda sucks, DW88 should be the go to injector of choice for anyone with a 18+ looking to stay under 1100hp, they flow more than enough to support e85 and 4 digit power on 18+ cars

 

[aleccolin]

So would DW88s be a good choice for a 15-17 car? I’m planning to drop in a DW400 fuel pump in lieu of a BAP, but I’ve had my doubts about the LU47s that come in the kit, just doesn’t seem to leave much headroom.

I may be wrong, nobody has provided what their max injector duty cycle is during a pull, but it calculates over 80% and that’s not ideal if you ever want to pulley down.

 

[Burkey]

So would DW88s be a good choice for a 15-17 car? I’m planning to drop in a DW400 fuel pump in lieu of a BAP, but I’ve had my doubts about the LU47s that come in the kit, just doesn’t seem to leave much headroom.

I may be wrong, nobody has provided what their max injector duty cycle is during a pull, but it calculates over 80% and that’s not ideal if you ever want to pulley down.

You really want to talk to your tuner.
Lund told me that 95’s were the minimum. Things may have changed since then.
If you have the cash, you really can’t beat the ID stuff. Data is MINT.

 

[West TX GT]

would have went with the DW88lb injectors because they are a one piece just like the lu47 injectors. Only reason I did is because they don’t tune very well per tuner

If you don't mind my asking, which tuner didn't like the 88's? I'm starting to gather up a fuel system before I go with a different tune and I'm still trying to sort out which parts and which tuner to go with.

 

[Kona 18]

So would DW88s be a good choice for a 15-17 car? I’m planning to drop in a DW400 fuel pump in lieu of a BAP, but I’ve had my doubts about the LU47s that come in the kit, just doesn’t seem to leave much headroom.

I may be wrong, nobody has provided what their max injector duty cycle is during a pull, but it calculates over 80% and that’s not ideal if you ever want to pulley down.

Depends on how much power you want to make and whether the DW400 will hold pressure so you aren't forcing the injectors to pick up the slack through increased pulse-width should the pressure drop(and if you are, it depends where your IDC ends up).

On 93 then DW88s will be fine, on e85 it will depend on pressure. You want IDC to be 95% or less, anything more and you are going static. Ideally 90% or less in the summer so there is room for the denser air you will see in the winter

 

[wsfrazier]

Just bought the Stage 1 today, taking notes on everyone's tips/discussions here for an easier install.

Was originally going to do a Gen V whipple, but couldn't beat the price of the Edelbrock. Hope no regrets.

 

[mikengail]

Just bought the Stage 1 today, taking notes on everyone's tips/discussions here for an easier install.

Was originally going to do a Gen V whipple, but couldn't beat the price of the Edelbrock. Hope no regrets.

I would recommend that you pay particular attention to the installations tips provided above with regard to the fuel rails. Forum member, aleccolin, mentions what I think is the best solution for the most expedient method of fuel rail installation as they are currently designed:

1. Perform a mockup install on a workbench to make sure everything aligns up properly.

2. Slightly drill out the holes in the fuel rail mounting tabs. You will have to go back a few posts/pages to see what aleccolin suggests. I don't remember.

3. Use half-dog or full-dog tapered bolts, for the fuel rail mounts, in lieu of those provided in your kit. The holes in the supercharger are a little on the shallow side, so half-dog should do.

4. Put all of the new tapered fuel rail mounting bolts in loosely when fixing the fuel rails to the supercharger.

5. Move the fuel rails around slightly to insure proper seating of the injectors, especially where the top of the injectors connect to the fuel rail.

6. While someone else holds the fuel rail in place, tighten the fuel rails as required.

My fuel rail holes were very slightly off on the passenger side and the mounting tabs were not angled properly. When I tightened them down, the rearmost passenger side injector would lose its seat at the top into the fuel rail and leak. My tuner had to bore scope the alignment to see where it was off and how much. He then very slightly drilled and routed the mounting holes in the fuel rail tabs to finally get the injectors to seat properly and not leak.

Your kit may not vary as much as mine did. Regardless, I've heard that Edelbrock is aware of the problem and their engineers are working a solution. Good luck. Once my kit was finally installed, it was very impressive. My tuner is still working on the normal driveability issues that come with a new-from-scratch tune on a relatively new to the market system, but he's getting there. WOT works great though. Big soft rear tires more than recommended. They're needed. Lol...

 

[Kona 18]

Just bought the Stage 1 today, taking notes on everyone's tips/discussions here for an easier install.

Was originally going to do a Gen V whipple, but couldn't beat the price of the Edelbrock. Hope no regrets.

buy the stubby swivel socket I mentioned somewhere in this thread, the one that is a socket and swivel as one piece. You want a 1/4" one bc it's really tight between the runners.

Over all you aren't looking at too difficult of a job, I did mine in my own garage over a weekend

 

[rum_punch_ruby]

Got my car back from the local tuner. Unfortunately he wasn't able to solve the hesitations during light throttle. Because he couldn't really dial it in perfect he just updated the tune for 93 instead of the 91 that comes on the EB tune at no charge so that was nice.

Picked up a few more HP but still need to really dial it in. Will look at potential issues and uprades for another tune in Spring.

 

[aleccolin]

Anybody using BMR's MM008 motor mount brackets to create a little clearance? Drops the motor up to 1/2". Just ordered a set to try out with the install, need to measure what change it makes in driveline inclination first though.

 

[Burkey]

Anybody using BMR's MM008 motor mount brackets to create a little clearance? Drops the motor up to 1/2". Just ordered a set to try out with the install, need to measure what change it makes in driveline inclination first though.

I’m using the UPR mounts, dropped a 1/4”
I found that dropping the gearbox 1/4” made the angles perfect BUT I’m on a one piece shaft.
Two piece would need adjustment at the centre bearing also. Not sure what the results might be sorry.

 

[rum_punch_ruby]

For those of you on the 2300 who have upgraded your throttle body, injectors and spark plugs what have you gone with?

Gonna add the EB intake and BAP also but unsure what to go with on the others. Likely gonna use Lund for my tune and will be asking them as well.

Local tuner tuned it on 93 and currently at 582rwhp. Would like to end up 650+ when its all said and done.

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