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TheLion70x77

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Anyone running corrected roll center and bump steer with 305 square setup? I figure for actual track work I'll probably buy a dedicated set of 6GR Ten Stain Bronze 19x11 ET50's with 20mm spacers up front and run some sticky track tires like the CUP2's from the PP2 or something similar.

I love the 4 square Pilot Sport 4S setup on my 23 lb RTR Tech 7's for street use. I dropped 48 lbs of rotating mass over the stock PP wheels / Pirellie tire setup and gained 4% final drive ratio, lower CG and better carcas response by running a 275/35R19 instead of 275/40R19's. Honestly I think 40 series is more of a performance luxury profile than a street performance or track tire profile.

But I'm also on full steeda front end links (High durometer tension links, extended ball stud lateral links and bump steer), so the geometry is correct for the lower ride height. I don't see many track guys mention if they have corrected geometry or not, but most of them are obviously lowered.
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BmacIL

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Anyone running corrected roll center and bump steer with 305 square setup? I figure for actual track work I'll probably buy a dedicated set of 6GR Ten Stain Bronze 19x11 ET50's with 20mm spacers up front and run some sticky track tires like the CUP2's from the PP2 or something similar.

I love the 4 square Pilot Sport 4S setup on my 23 lb RTR Tech 7's for street use. I dropped 48 lbs of rotating mass over the stock PP wheels / Pirellie tire setup and gained 4% final drive ratio, lower CG and better carcas response by running a 275/35R19 instead of 275/40R19's. Honestly I think 40 series is more of a performance luxury profile than a street performance or track tire profile.

But I'm also on full steeda front end links (High durometer tension links, extended ball stud lateral links and bump steer), so the geometry is correct for the lower ride height. I don't see many track guys mention if they have corrected geometry or not, but most of them are obviously lowered.
@boardkat is the only one I know for sure that is running very wide fronts w/ the roll center correction arms, with his 18x12s or 18x13s. I think he also has run 19x11s with them.

I believe you will need to run a 25 mm spacer, not 20 mm, even with that +50 offset to get enough camber. The control arms narrow the front track a few mm, and reduce the negative camber possible for the same position on the strut tower mount. Either way you'll need at least -2 deg (which you'd want anyway for track use, and really more like -2.5 to -3). I'm currently running a 5 mm spacer up front with my 19x9.5 +35 setup to get the track where it was on stock arms.
 

NightmareMoon

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Anyone running corrected roll center and bump steer with 305 square setup? I figure for actual track work I'll probably buy a dedicated set of 6GR Ten Stain Bronze 19x11 ET50's with 20mm spacers up front and run some sticky track tires like the CUP2's from the PP2 or something similar.

I love the 4 square Pilot Sport 4S setup on my 23 lb RTR Tech 7's for street use. I dropped 48 lbs of rotating mass over the stock PP wheels / Pirellie tire setup and gained 4% final drive ratio, lower CG and better carcas response by running a 275/35R19 instead of 275/40R19's. Honestly I think 40 series is more of a performance luxury profile than a street performance or track tire profile.

But I'm also on full steeda front end links (High durometer tension links, extended ball stud lateral links and bump steer), so the geometry is correct for the lower ride height. I don't see many track guys mention if they have corrected geometry or not, but most of them are obviously lowered.
yes, I'm running the steeda roll center control arms + bump steer with 305s on 19x11s and 25mm spacers (with camber plates too). I'm running ~2.7° front camber with the steeda plates, but that mainly only changes how much of the tire sticks out past the fender, and with 2.7 degrees it tucks in fine.
 

NvrFinished

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I'm running the Steeda lower roll center control arms and bump steer kit as well. With 19x11 50mm offset wheels and 305/30R19 tires, I use a 15mm spacer in conjunction with my RideTech coilovers. I was using 20mm spacers prior. This setup allows for up to -3.5 degrees camber up front and -1.8 for the street. No issues with bump steer at all.
 

Bluemustang

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yes, I'm running the steeda roll center control arms + bump steer with 305s on 19x11s and 25mm spacers (with camber plates too). I'm running ~2.7° front camber with the steeda plates, but that mainly only changes how much of the tire sticks out past the fender, and with 2.7 degrees it tucks in fine.
Wait, how is it you're able to get -2.7 while Bmac cannot?
 

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Cardude99

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Wait, how is it you're able to get -2.7 while Bmac cannot?
Different camber plates I believe. If I'm not mistaken I think nightmare has Steeda like me, I've read they can go further than the BMR ones but not 100% on that.
 

BmacIL

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Different camber plates I believe. If I'm not mistaken I think nightmare has Steeda like me, I've read they can go further than the BMR ones but not 100% on that.
I was also trying to max caster simultaneously, which maybe lost me a few tenths of a degree. I can only get -2.0 that way at 7.0 deg caster.
 

NightmareMoon

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Wait, how is it you're able to get -2.7 while Bmac cannot?
Steeda plates and a hole saw to open up your strut tower holes and you can get quite a lot of camber. I’m nowhere near maxed out. MM plates don’t allow much. Some others (steeda included) will get more camber, but eventually you’ll hit the limits of the strut tower opening unless you cut into it. Vorshlag sells a jig to open the tower holes without making a mess.
 

BmacIL

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Steeda plates and a hole saw to open up your strut tower holes and you can get quite a lot of camber. I’m nowhere near maxed out. MM plates don’t allow much. Some others (steeda included) will get more camber, but eventually you’ll hit the limits of the strut tower opening unless you cut into it. Vorshlag sells a jig to open the tower holes without making a mess.
I actually found out why I was not able to get more last night. Let's just say I should fire my chief mechanic. Top: before. Bottom: after. Prize goes to the first one who spots it that I haven't already told :party::facepalm:
0617192137a.jpg
0618191822.jpg
 

NightmareMoon

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I actually found out why I was not able to get more last night. Let's just say I should fire my chief mechanic. Top: before. Bottom: after. Prize goes to the first one who spots it that I haven't already told :party::facepalm:
0617192137a.jpg
0618191822.jpg
What was it?
 

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BmacIL

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TicTocTach

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Question about Magneride-equipped applications - I didn't see anyone in this thread with MR running truly square. I am aware that some of the MR-specific bits like front hubs are different than regular GT/PP1 parts, but I don't know if I've seen anything about rear hubs, or differences in the shock / strut bodies themselves. Has anybody found real differences with their MR install? I'm looking to find no differences in track width or clearance to the strut body, but not holding my breath. I think I can work with whatever comes up short of a massively fatter strut body AND wider hubs. This would seem to make the front poke unacceptable except with a bunch of -camber, and I'm working on my daily.

Application-wise, I intend to autoX almost exclusively, and in one of the Street classes where I'll run RE-71R's on the stock EBPP wheels. The 11's will be for DD - because they're awesome. Camber will have to be a compromise between what works in autoX and what will survive the commute for 98% of the rest of the year. I'll stick to this plan until the warranty runs out, or @BmacIL convinces me to go Cam-C...

Any guidance greatly appreciated!
 

2morrow

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For you guys & gals running the Steeda roll center control arms + bump steer kits; how do you like it and is the difference in ride/handling noticeable?

I plan to upgrade my front wheels from a 19x10 w/285 RE-71R's (street set up is MPSS) to an 11 w/305 hopefully soon. Just debating on whether or not to do the spacer & extended stud thing...

For reference I do a lot of HPDE/Track Days, dont really auto-x anymore and have all Steeda dual stage springs, adjustable dampeners, CC plates (about to notch strut towers soon too) and every chassis bracing and sub-frame support product they offer.

This thread has been amazing and thank you all who have contributed to it:like:
 

NightmareMoon

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For you guys & gals running the Steeda roll center control arms + bump steer kits; how do you like it and is the difference in ride/handling noticeable?

I plan to upgrade my front wheels from a 19x10 w/285 RE-71R's (street set up is MPSS) to an 11 w/305 hopefully soon. Just debating on whether or not to do the spacer & extended stud thing...

For reference I do a lot of HPDE/Track Days, dont really auto-x anymore and have all Steeda dual stage springs, adjustable dampeners, CC plates (about to notch strut towers soon too) and every chassis bracing and sub-frame support product they offer.

This thread has been amazing and thank you all who have contributed to it:like:
Hard to say because I did the control arms at the same time as the DR springs, so I don’t have much to compare to. Its very stock-like steering, so I assume that means the control arms are doing their thing.
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