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2018 Active Exhaust Install Guide

Zquez

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I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for where active exhaust harness plugs into the body harness. I'm assuming it needs can bus input. Can anyone post pictures of their body harness where the mufflers plug in?
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KewlWinter

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I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for where active exhaust harness plugs into the body harness. I'm assuming it needs can bus input. Can anyone post pictures of their body harness where the mufflers plug in?
wiring-diagram-jpg.jpg


Edit: Added picture of location.
plug-jpg.jpg
 

jake_zx2

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How far do they run? I have the actuator harnesses and the Y harness.
There ae plenty of part numbers and diagrams in this thread. Please just read though
 

88lx50

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saying that the active exhaust can be toggled on and off with forscan?
If you have a 2018 or 2019 without the active exhaust, the programming is already there, and some cars have most of the wiring. It is a simple matter of installing and then using Forscan to change the code in the car's instrument panel module to turn it on.
 

Tweeter2148

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So lucky me, my 2019 Mustang GT PP1 (with a Roush supercharger) is at the dealership to change the code for the active exhaust and they can't figure it out. My car was wired at the back, so I got the 3 wire harness, 2 active exhaust motors and a new active aftermarket exhaust installed. The dealership is saying that the Roush tech can't find any option in the instrument panel module to turn on the active exhaust option. They even took the Roush tune off the car and took it back to stock and still no luck. I didn't do anything with Forscan thinking that I would just let the dealership take care of it. Any one have any suggestions? The dealership is contacting Ford to see what they say.
 

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Myshelby3425

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So lucky me, my 2019 Mustang GT PP1 (with a Roush supercharger) is at the dealership to change the code for the active exhaust and they can't figure it out. My car was wired at the back, so I got the 3 wire harness, 2 active exhaust motors and a new active aftermarket exhaust installed. The dealership is saying that the Roush tech can't find any option in the instrument panel module to turn on the active exhaust option. They even took the Roush tune off the car and took it back to stock and still no luck. I didn't do anything with Forscan thinking that I would just let the dealership take care of it. Any one have any suggestions? The dealership is contacting Ford to see what they say.
You need to use forscan. Your dealer doesn’t find it bc that something they most prob don’t do.
 

boB

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I have a '15, so I have nothing. Could a variable rheostat work?
Earlier in the thread it was suggested that the valve position is controlled by a PWM signal.
 

ehazel

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I'm just going to throw this out there as the other thread didn't really go anywhere, I added AE to my 2018 non active (No rear plug) car and made a rough overview/consolidated information from this main thread to hopefully help others.

Dont let the schematic scare you away, the majority of that is existing or apart of three harnesses you will buy in addition to the mufflers. I did an edit to the diagram. Here is a brief overview, Ill try to put together all the specific details when I have some spare time.

The wiring from the PCM and Power all terminate inside the cabin. There are two multi pin connectors where the wires end and need to be extended back to the trunk.

The Y Harness is what would have connected to the missing plug underneath the car. There are two extension harnesses that plug into the Y and each goes to one muffler. You CAN wire this up without the Y connection but I felt It was easier than wiring everything directly into the mufflers (Or Muffler extensions).

The Y Harness has Six wires going into it.
Five need to be pulled from the front footwells consisting of:
- Four signal wires from the drivers footwell.
- One power wire from the passenger footwell.

The final wire is ground and there is a perfect spot in the trunk to grab from.


Wiring info.jpg
This is by no means a step by step how to. Mainly consolidated information from the other thread and photos of my sketchy half assed(for now) installation. Please read through the other thread to get a full understanding and verify before proceeding. Thanks to Fishtail, Rock50, and others for putting in the hard work of tracking down information and tracing wiring from the pcm and fuse box to the passenger cabin.

Major Parts:
JR3Z-5230-FA - Muffler - DOUBLE CHECK THESE
JR3Z-5230-FB - Muffler - DOUBLE CHECK THESE - It Looks like Ford might have changed part numbers for the mufflers
JR3Z-14A411-H - Actuator/Extension Harness - Need Two
JR3Z-14A411-J - Y Harness

Wiring:
Signal: I found a 4 conductor 22awg shielded cable at my local Fry's electronics, 50ft for about $12. Similar to the link below.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-4-Condu...d-25-Foot-Length-4C-22AWG-S2204-/263651685640

Power+Ground: I used off the shelf Autozone 18awg in Red and Black.
Taps:
Signal wires being tapped are 20awg (I used 20-22awg tap)
I dont recall the size of the power wire but I used a 14-16 awg tap
Spades: I used the 22-18awg spades and they didn't want to crimp to the 22awg signal wires due to small size. (It could have been my crimp tool, but be prepared to solder just in case)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/120-pc-3M-...DE/381858397493?hash=item58e888bd35:rk:4:pf:0

Forscan:
IPC module if you have a standard cluster. (The digital cluster might be different check the forscan spreadsheets in the DIY section)
Inactive code: 720-10-01 0xxx xxxx xxxx
Active code: 720-10-01 2xxx xxxx xxxx


Here is the super super simplified diagram I made to keep myself organized when connecting things together. The original diagram and my medium simplified version are available earlier in this thread.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GR1EKLwP0vdrvnphMZ16YencGahA1QZYI7Yxr2gNZvY/edit?usp=sharing

I have been unable to source the correct pins to add to the missing side of the connector so I T tapped the wires just before the connector for both power and signal. I Had a similar issue sourcing the main connection on the Y harness so I ended up cutting it off and soldering on 3m waterproof spade connectors on each wire. My end goal is that I can find the correct pins/connectors in the future and have a near factory install.

To route the cabling I used the Install guide for Roush's active exhaust. You will need to tear apart most of the drivers side interior and that guide made it 10x easier than guess work. I routed my power under the dash over to the drivers side so I didn't have to tear the passenger side apart.(You can see both the red wire and signal going into a black bundle in the photo below)
https://www.roushperformance.com/media/parts/manuals/422100-instructions.pdf


The Y Harness has Six wires going into it.
Five need to be pulled from the front footwells consisting of:
- Four signal wires from the drivers footwell.(GY, WH-BU, BN-GN, BU-GN) Pins 1-4. I attached the connector pinout diagram.
Signal Wires.jpg

- One power wire from the passenger footwell.(VT-BN) Pin 2
Power (Passenger Footwell).jpg

The final wire is ground and there is a perfect spot in the trunk to grab from. (Bolt with black wire)
20190119_213719 - Copy.jpg


Here is the Y Harness(Under the rear were the factory plug would be.) Its main connector I replaced with waterproof spades then shrink-wrapped.
20190119_213446 - Copy.jpg
 

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AlbertD

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Started this project on my 2016 last night. I prototyped one motor and it worked flawlessly. Your instructions (OP) were tremendously helpful. Thank you!

One question... did you settle in on a particular voltage going out to the motors? I picked up a DC-DC buck converter and was going to play around with different voltage amounts later today to see how they affect the speed of the motor.
 

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Welp, for those of us with 2019's the other setting to change is in the PCM and Ford had to do it for me. $60 well spent! I am now converted to Active!
Would it be possible to contact the tech at the dealership that made the change in your car's PCM and find out what had to be done? I'm trying to get the active exhaust installed on my 2019 GT (400A) and the tech at my dealership is not able to figure it out. He changed line 720-10-01 and got the feature to pull up on the cluster but the valves still aren't working.
 

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It looks like ford jacked up the price of the mufflers to $400ish each now.
 

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What diffusers/valance are people using on there 15-17 cars to accept the quad pipes?
I’ve seen the roush fits, anyone tried the gt350?

Have a cheap gt350 advertised near me. Don’t mind removing the fake tips and cutting the grille out but don’t know if it lines up. Can only one confirm?
 

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In case it may help, here is the data from my "as built":

720-04-01 0401 0100 0032 (the "1" in the second group may activate the option)

720-10-01 2000 0400 005C (the "2" in the first group may activate the option)
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