2019 Mustang GT idle thudding/knocking, authorized engine replacement

[Marcelo C]

@Marcelo ... I might have missed it, but how many miles were on your car? If the bearings that Ford is putting in are garbage then it seems they go out at relatively low mileage.

My car had 1700 miles when engine damage was confirmed! But all the noises I was hearing were present since it had 500 miles

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[Marcelo C]

What does he mean that the main bearings are garbage ? If they wiped out due to touching the crank surface that's a tight clearance issue and isn't the fault of the bearing.

I wish I could give you more specific answer. What the Tech said was that he felt Ford was using the wrong type (material) of bearing for a engine of this spec!!!!

 

[88lx50]

I just got my car back they replaced long block! I still have a Attorney working on Ford as I don’t want to keep car anymore!
But here is what the Tech told me : apparently the Main bearings are garbage ! My engine had damage to low end , damage to camshafts,cylinders 3&5 had scoring and tech said the timing chain tensioners also were damaged !! So def push for a long block.... especially since you had metal in your oil. Like I did

What dealer did you go to?

 

[TGGT]

If a Ford Service Bulletin exists ask your guy what the number to it is.... they are all numbered.

The only internal Ford Service Bulletins that currently exist are:

1) Ford GSB G0000165 - Lower End Engine Diagnostic Aid https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ford-gsb-g0000165-lower-end-engine-diagnostic-aid.112231/

2) Ford GSB G0000184 - Engine Failure Analysis and Tips
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...f-events-at-dealer.112041/page-2#post-2382602

3) Ford GSB G0000128 - Gas Engine Performance Modifications https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tuning-and-warranty.101425/#post-2207436

None of those are specific to the 5.0 Coyote and no one has posted a Ford TSB/SSM/GSB yet that is specific to only the 2018-2019 5.0 Coyote “tick” or internal failure concerns. So if someone has access to that (if it exists), please post up the Ford Doc number...

I keep hearing (seeing) folks post that there’s some magical internal Ford doc that exists for the 2018-2019 Coyote Issues and everyone is keeping it a secret - however truth be told, any TSB/SSM/GSB that is available on the internal Ford network is also visible to all Dealerships and their Service Centers... so the here-say is garbage until that specific doc is posted up.

All I was showed was the engine failure analysis and tips gsb. Like you said there is nothing specific to the coyote at this point

 

[Marcelo C]

What dealer did you go to?

All American ford.

 

[Cavpilot2k]

Yes, because British cars have such a great history of reliability...
Just kidding.
Well, kinda, but not really...
All in good fun.

Ford should make the 5.0 engines in England not Canada.

 

[Cavpilot2k]

I'm new here, but following this and similar threads closely because I am seriously considering adding a mustang to my stable. I'm coming from BMW turbo six land, and want to have that nice V8 growl for a while.
Anyway, I almost picked up a 2018 a few months ago that had all the boxes checked that I want (MT, Mag suspension, PP1, active exhaust), but I passed. Thinking about a new one next year and now thinking I am glad to be looking at a late 2019 or MY 2020 build. Maybe the kinks will be worked out.
My old instructor pilot in the Army once told me "Never fly the A-model anything." Meaning let the manufacturer work out the kinks on a new product.

Now I am beginning to wonder if the '18 I looked at (slightly used, 6000 miles, selling for $36k with all the above stuff) was a buyback car (I wasn't aware of this issue then). The car came from Georgia, was less than 5 months old, and was for sale at a dealership in Massachusetts.
Hmmm...

 

[88lx50]

They would ha

I'm new here, but following this and similar threads closely because I am seriously considering adding a mustang to my stable. I'm coming from BMW turbo six land, and want to have that nice V8 growl for a while.
Anyway, I almost picked up a 2018 a few months ago that had all the boxes checked that I want (MT, Mag suspension, PP1, active exhaust), but I passed. Thinking about a new one next year and now thinking I am glad to be looking at a late 2019 or MY 2020 build. Maybe the kinks will be worked out.
My old instructor pilot in the Army once told me "Never fly the A-model anything." Meaning let the manufacturer work out the kinks on a new product.

Now I am beginning to wonder if the '18 I looked at (slightly used, 6000 miles, selling for $36k with all the above stuff) was a buyback car (I wasn't aware of this issue then). The car came from Georgia, was less than 5 months old, and was for sale at a dealership in Massachusetts.
Hmmm...

The dealer would have to disclose if it was a buyback and there would be a sticker under the hood stating the same.

 

[Cavpilot2k]

They would ha

The dealer would have to disclose if it was a buyback and there would be a sticker under the hood stating the same.

Ah, okay. And it still had the remainder of the normal factory warranty on it (about 29 months).
It was a good deal, and I would have probably bought it if it were the right color (black or Magnetic) because it had exactly the options I would have spec'd at $11k off list price for being only 6 month old. The Kona Blue was nice, but not my style for me.

 

[Dfeeds]

Unfortunately it's going to be a gamble unless everyone has these issues and a majority aren't sensitive enough to notice (a possibility). Even the people getting new engines still have their foot in the lottery with these things, to my understanding.

Anyways, an update. Ford denied the long block, stating that it would be an "over repair" when the exact issue hasn't been diagnosed. Part of me is happy to be getting even a short block without much fuss, but it still seems a bit odd. The dealer asked me if I'd rather put more miles on the car, and wait for the issue to become worse, before repair. Yeah, no... So now it's the tear down process. I was told the tech would perform a more in depth inspection and, if anything stands out, he will make another go at a long block. Fun fun.

 

[Cavpilot2k]

Unfortunately it's going to be a gamble unless everyone has these issues and a majority aren't sensitive enough to notice (a possibility). Even the people getting new engines still have their foot in the lottery with these things, to my understanding.

Anyways, an update. Ford denied the long block, stating that it would be an "over repair" when the exact issue hasn't been diagnosed. Part of me is happy to be getting even a short block without much fuss, but it still seems a bit odd. The dealer asked me if I'd rather put more miles on the car, and wait for the issue to become worse, before repair. Yeah, no... So now it's the tear down process. I was told the tech would perform a more in depth inspection and, if anything stands out, he will make another go at a long block. Fun fun.

If they are agreed to cover the issue, maybe going longer would be a better idea. It would allow the to collect better data and see what parts are wearing more. At this point they’re just guessing, tearing it apart and looking for “something” out of the ordinary with little to go on.

 

[GT Pony]

So now it's the tear down process. I was told the tech would perform a more in depth inspection and, if anything stands out, he will make another go at a long block. Fun fun.

Ask the tech if he can measure all the rod side clearances. That's been one suspect of the cause of the BBQ tick.

 

[Marcelo C]

Hello everyone! Just giving another update! So on 10/22. I picked up my 18 gt after long block was replaced. New motor felt and sounded great for the first 200 miles. Now I’m hearing a slight knock and same old 1500-2200 rpm rattle. Have to bring it back to dealer. Don’t know if I’m just that unlucky or these engines are sh*t! I have really been easy on car since long block was put in have not been over 2500 rpm. So I know it isn’t from improper break in .....

 

[mustangflanagan]

I have a feeling the only cure for this bs is built motor.. What's a good price for budget build?

 

[Dfeeds]

If they are agreed to cover the issue, maybe going longer would be a better idea. It would allow the to collect better data and see what parts are wearing more. At this point they’re just guessing, tearing it apart and looking for “something” out of the ordinary with little to go on.

That was the dealer's suggestion, not Ford's. If Ford wants to put in a short block then I'm not opposed to it. Not to mention that I've put 750 miles on it since it first started (up to about 1050 total) with no improvement. It's also cold and snowy so I may not have the chance to put any decent amount of mileage for months. It is odd that they appear to be guessing but, occam's razor... the simplest solution is that Ford is well aware of some problems and my engine is displaying enough symptoms of said problem to not warrant the labor costs of a more thorough tear down to them. Hell, for all I know, Ford is giddy to get an engine with such low mileage so they can investigate it.

Ask the tech if he can measure all the rod side clearances. That's been one suspect of the cause of the BBQ tick.

I'll bring it up next time I speak to the advisor and tech. I'm curious if there's going to be any noticeable scoring on the cylinder walls. That, to my knowledge, hasn't been checked.

Hello everyone! Just giving another update! So on 10/22. I picked up my 18 gt after long block was replaced. New motor felt and sounded great for the first 200 miles. Now I’m hearing a slight knock and same old 1500-2200 rpm rattle. Have to bring it back to dealer. Don’t know if I’m just that unlucky or these engines are sh*t! I have really been easy on car since long block was put in have not been over 2500 rpm. So I know it isn’t from improper break in .....

This engine likes to sit around 2500 rpm and over. Below that and it feels like it's lugging a bit, which isn't ideal. Not saying you caused an issue, but don't be too easy on it. But what you're saying is what I'm worried about. My engine isn't making the bbq tick, but something else I don't hear a lot of people mention. I could just be fixing one issue and gaining another in the process. That, or the sound I hear is the onset of the tick. Who knows.

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