Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[mumbles]

I want higher fidelity audio quality at higher volume and a bit more bass.

If you remove the factory amp, won’t the noise canceling device start making strange noises?

The noise cancelling signal comes from the head unit, so if you don't reconnect those lines, you'll be okay.

I'm going to pop these two diagrams back in here since they are buried pages back in this thread;

The first diagram shows the factory connections and signals, note that the tweeters and midranges are tied together in parallel.

The second diagram is one way (of many) that you could connect aftermarket amps & processors to the factory wiring using the molex connectors listed. Using this method, you are taking the low level (RCA level) signal from the head unit into a DSP/crossover unit, something like a JL TwK88, RF 3Sixty.3 or Helix DSP. Because the signal is low level, you would not need the LC7i.

If you want to use the LC7i, you would leave the factory amp plugged in and tap the outputs from the Brown & Grey connectors to feed the inputs on the LC7i which would then feed the amp(s). This has some implications in that the factory amp is not really outputting a full range signal except to maybe the rear speakers... this can probably be fixed with Forscan, but that's another road.

Sponsored

 

[Vegas5OH]

so is adding the factory shaker pro amp and sub a plug and play thing? I have forscan to program. What parts do i need exactly thanks

 

[mumbles]

so is adding the factory shaker pro amp and sub a plug and play thing? I have forscan to program. What parts do i need exactly thanks

Unfortunately it's not PNP... if the car didn't come with the Pro system, the wiring is missing from the amp to the trunk. I have not looked into this, but I believe I've read that there is also a difference between a Pro amp and a non-Pro amp.

If all you want is more bass, you could buy an OEM sub enclosure from ebay, and use a LOC to tap into the rear speakers but you will still need an aftermarket amp (which may have speaker level inputs). Or you could buy a complete aftermarket amp/enclosure/sub combination.

 

[GTP]

This will not work either. The non-subwoofer car has the bass rolled off to the rear deck speakers. So no matter how you upgrade the amp or speakers, bass still isn't sent back there. Also, the 400a car has cheap speakers with no bass signal and playing through heavy carpet.

I started a thread on this last year.

 

[Nik_Ind]

I have redone my system for the forth time. I think you meant 6.5 inch component?

I decided to simplify it and it sounds so much better.

I installed two 8inch kicker subs in the rear parcel shelf without any cutting on timber spacers mounted from underneath using all 10 bolts and plenty of sound deadening. Free air.

I purchased a pair of pioneer coaxials speakers - Pioneer TSZ65F
Run the whole lot off of a 4 channel pioneer amplifier top of the line.

But to answer your question if you keep the amplifier stock and disconnect the tweeters in the A-pillar replace the midrange with a coaxial 3.5inch speaker - I used Hertz. This would be a really cheap, simple and effective improvement but you also need to disconnect the centre channel - its horrible. I did not find the 6.5 inch's in the doors that bad.

My issue with the component speakers was you need time alignment adjustment as I feel that the tweeters are mounted to far from the woofers, hence for moving to a coaxial speakers. I currently find that the coxials mounted low down does not muffle the sound at all it's very clear and open sound. They are a fantastic speaker and there are no cross overs to worry about trying to install.

Don't know how I skipped on your reply, bud! Sorry about that! But well, that's a bummer since I wasn't keen on getting an aftermarket amp and go through the procedure of rewiring everything. I actually thought that the Focal KRS 4" components would be a good investment!

Honestly, it was a huge improvement getting the 3.5" Infinity mids, and 6.5" Focal Coaxials for the rear shelf. The 6.5" door woofers don't sound bad at all, but since I wanted to experiment and get something better, I've been trying and experimenting ever since.

I had read somewhere on the forum that the door woofers only get a low freq signal, so getting coaxials don't make sense. Instead, one should get a nice woofer/midbass to upgrade, and I haven't found anything that could actually provide good front end fill. Even the Pyramid woofers that I have right now are average at best, but they were so cheap, that I shouldn't even be complaining! No experience with Hertz/JL, so not sure if I should go and splurge on those.

 

[BlownGP]

Honestly, it was a huge improvement getting the 3.5" Infinity mids, and 6.5" Focal Coaxials for the rear shelf. The 6.5" door woofers don't sound bad at all, but since I wanted to experiment and get something better, I've been trying and experimenting ever since.

Is there a adapter to wire the Center 3.5" and Door 3.5" speakers? Or do you have to cut and splice?

Thanks

 

[Nik_Ind]

Is there a adapter to wire the Center 3.5" and Door 3.5" speakers? Or do you have to cut and splice?

Thanks

I just cut the factory plug and soldered the wire directly to the speaker terminals. You could also use the wire supplied with the speakers, since they have plugs that slide on to the speaker terminals, and follow the cut/splice method on the signal wire.

 

[rpitsing]

Total noob. Have Shaker Pro w/ sub.
Id like to achieve better highs for the least cost.

Thinking I should swap out all (3) 3.5” and (2) Pillars?
Any recommendations on most cost effective in general? What speakers would be best for swap without replacing amp?

 

[BlownGP]

I just cut the factory plug and soldered the wire directly to the speaker terminals. You could also use the wire supplied with the speakers, since they have plugs that slide on to the speaker terminals, and follow the cut/splice method on the signal wire.

Alright. Have no problem cutting and splicing, but plug and play is always nice.

Total noob. Have Shaker Pro w/ sub.
Id like to achieve better highs for the least cost.

Thinking I should swap out all (3) 3.5” and (2) Pillars?
Any recommendations on most cost effective in general? What speakers would be best for swap without replacing amp?

I pretty have the same question.

And from reading this thread and others.
The center speaker makes the most difference.

But like you said. Changing the 3 (3.5") speakers and tweeters will probably help the highs.

 

[rpitsing]

I’m wondering about matching the crossover points and ohm ratings.
I think the center speaker is sent full range? Don’t think I could use a coaxial for the door 3.5 and keep the pillar tweeters since they share a wire.

Does anyone have instructions for replacing the center speaker?

 

[Racemaster]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97876

 

[z06psi]

So I imagine hooking the remote turn on needs to go on the radio fuse to keep the amps on after the car is shut off and the door is still closed.

 

[Shane361]

Easy question for someone more knowledgeable than me. I've seen conflicting posts on the stuffing a speaker box. I bought the Zen box for one 12" which is a 1.15 for a sealed box. The box requires a .87. Was not easy finding a quality speaker at .87. Should I use the stuffing or will it decrease the air volume hurting me even more? Thanks in Advance! -Shane

 

[evillela2001]

2018 401a with shaker pro. So I made the harness to tap into the rca output at the dsp/amp. Replaced front speakers and added an amp. Worked perfectly. With the spare rca outputs (rear l/r) I'm trying to add the subwoofer amp. Unfortunately, it seems as though this signal is filtering out 200hz and lower frequencies. Is this something that can be disable via the ForScan? I read the whole thread and everyone kept saying that these outputs were full range with light equalization. Maybe it changed for the 18. Anyway, any help would be appreciated. FYI I swapped the full range amp to the rear channel to test if the signal was working and it is.

 

[Falk03]

2018 401a with shaker pro. So I made the harness to tap into the rca output at the dsp/amp. Replaced front speakers and added an amp. Worked perfectly. With the spare rca outputs (rear l/r) I'm trying to add the subwoofer amp. Unfortunately, it seems as though this signal is filtering out 200hz and lower frequencies. Is this something that can be disable via the ForScan? I read the whole thread and everyone kept saying that these outputs were full range with light equalization. Maybe it changed for the 18. Anyway, any help would be appreciated. FYI I swapped the full range amp to the rear channel to test if the signal was working and it is.

I think you need to set the correct EQ setting in the ACM:

ACM 727-01-02 xXxx --> 0

Hope this helps.

Sponsored