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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

acull2000

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If you have altered amplfier gain ( new amp) or speaker effciency ( new speakers) you will need/want to disable ANC too. as the system is exactly calibrated for the factory hardware. anything different than this can cause added noise into the car from the ANC signal not matching the noise it is cancelling. this is why many have issues with adding subs and the low freq tone that is the low ANC tone which is now amplified.

ramb
Understood.

Only audiable mod is exhaust; which does not play well with the sound synth.

From trial and error with fuse 27/ Forscan, best combination seems to be ANC ON and synth OFF. Few of us in other threads trying to work this out, but can't figure out how to achieve that.
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Relak

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I'm getting a digital frequency sound coming from my speakers, which was present in the stock setup but not amplified with the aftermarket setup. I bypassed the factory amp so I know its the ACM that's causing the issue. After playing around with the ACM settings, I determined that switching the first bit in 727-01-01 to turn off the SDARS ant gets rid of the digital signal tone but I lose functionality with most of the audio sources (satellite, bluetooth, etc).

The fact that the frequency goes away when I disable the SDARS is a pretty clear indicator of where the issue lies but does anyone have any ideas on what it could be specifically thats causing the issue?

I've tried disabling the ANC, factory sound processing etc.
 

Boggus

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Swapped my tweeters today with some MB Quarts
 

mumbles

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Swapped my tweeters today with some MB Quarts
Really? You're just going to drop that here and nothing else? So, how do they sound?
 

Fenix

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I didn't see any pictures of the premium amp in here. Can someone help identify the correct plug/wires for splicing in RCA's?

Considering this is hard to access, will it be worth the effort vs a LOC from a rear speaker?
IMG_20170304_152804resized.jpg
 

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mumbles

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I didn't see any pictures of the premium amp in here. Can someone help identify the correct plug/wires for splicing in RCA's?

Considering this is hard to access, will it be worth the effort vs a LOC from a rear speaker?
I'm going to do some wiring on mine in a bit, so I'll get you that info...

The LOC will be much easier... I would use a tap over splicing though.
 

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zsh8me2

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20161030_152702 (2).jpg

this is the custom interface that I made for the factory 401a shaker wiring.

It takes the low level output from the factory system, splits it into two rca outputs, and it also takes the factory amp (5.98 volts) remote turn on, and converts it (using a relay and the factory amplifier power and ground) to 12v.
 

Racemaster

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There you go.Very nice job.Thats what I like to see,clean work.
 

mumbles

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I had some wiring to do, so I thought I'd put together a diagram that hopefully simplifies the 401a system. The first pic shows the physical amp in the drivers kick panel with the plugs labeled, and the second shows the overall system. In the wiring, I didn't put any colors because a lot of the colors listed in this sticky didn't match what was actually in my plugs... so, I just concentrated on the pin numbers and functions. Hope this helps somebody :D

Amp photo
S550_AMP_CONNECTORS.jpg


Diagram
PremDiagram.jpg
http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/eirvin60/media/PremDiagram.jpg.html
 
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acull2000

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I had some wiring to do, so I thought I'd put together a diagram that hopefully simplifies the 401a system. The first pic shows the physical amp in the drivers kick panel with the plugs labeled, and the second shows the overall system. In the wiring, I didn't put any colors because a lot of the colors listed in this sticky didn't match what was actually in my plugs... so, I just concentrated on the pin numbers and functions. Hope this helps somebody :D
I think you may have just helped me to identify exactly which pins to remove from the amp to disable the fake engine noises once and for all :)

Do you have to remove any trim panels to get to the amp, or is it just sat there?
 

Fenix

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The amp is not hidden at all its just awkward to get to since it's under the dash a bit. Stick your head in your foot well and look to the left side and up a bit

Awesome info there mumbles!
 

mumbles

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I think you may have just helped me to identify exactly which pins to remove from the amp to disable the fake engine noises once and for all :)

Do you have to remove any trim panels to get to the amp, or is it just sat there?
As Fenix says, you don't "have" to remove the trim panel, but it makes things easier...

  1. Pop off the cap on the hood release
  2. Push a 10mm socket into the hole of the hood release, and it will pop free the handle
  3. Pull up on the lower door scuff panels to create some room to wiggle the kick panel free
  4. Grabbing the rear of the kick panel, pull out towards the center console to free the rear retainer
  5. Still holding the rear of the kick panel, pull towards you to free the front retainers
 

mumbles

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Ok folks, new diagram time...
This one shows how you would add aftermarket processors and amps by utilizing some connectors from Molex that just plug into the connectors at the factory amp. Racemaster did an awesome job using the 90 degree version of these plugs and enclosing them in a "project" box.

This diagram is pretty generic, so please remember that there are literally hundreds of ways this could be done... although I have shown the center channel speaker, it's just for reference and is not part of the amplified output.

S550_Prem_Custom_Stereo.jpg
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