GT350 DIY Oil Change

[Spacebird]

FYI: I was underneath my car last weekend, ~250 miles after my DIY oil change. I saw some weeping from the drain plug, which was not replaced during the oil change. It's not enough to actually drip as best as I can tell, but it has convinced me to replace the plug at every oil change going forward.

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[Side_Pce]

I don't think it's necessary to change every oil change, but couldn't hurt.

 

[shelbyman]

If you punch a second hole in the bottom of the filter, higher up, it ought to let air sort of dribble into the filter, a little bubble or two at a time, and let more oil slowly drain out. It won't be all of it, though.

When it slows down to a drip, that's when I've always started to loosen the filters, going only a fraction of a turn at a time. Once the filter seal breaks free, there will be more oil coming out, but if you loosened the filter a small enough amount it should be coming out slow enough to remain attached to the filter body (watch the low side on filters that aren't perfectly vertical).

I've had at least three cars where I've had to follow the above approach to avoid making a mess.


Norm

Here's the conclusions that myself and a couple of machinists have come to in regard to getting the oil out of the filter. The oil thats causing the mess isn't the oil inside the body of the filter...its the oil above the anti-drain back valve. As you can see from the pics I've posted its almost impossible to get the oil out thats causing the mess...that's the oil that's trapped above the orange anti-drain back valve and the block. The only way we thought you could possibly do it would be to run a drill bit through the center of the filter where the oil flows back into the engine...that might relieve the pressure above the anti-drain back valve. BUT in order to do that you have to drill through the center of the filter, the spring plate, and the bottom of the filter element. Not sure its worth all that effort and you would have a mess on your hands and on the drill.

I think the best solution is to do what you suggested and thats to slowly break the seal till oil shows coming down the filter and then tighten it back up a bit to slow the flow of it. If you slow it down enough it might be manageable to get most if not all into the drain pan. I also got one of the mold-able plastic funnels to see if that could be put up at the top around the filter to contain the mess...won't know till next time I change it. And I would continue to stuff rags all around inside the trap door on top of the belly pan...that was my saving grace when I did it. Those rags caught almost all the oil...big mess on top of the belly pan if I didn't do that.

Hope everyone enjoys seeing whats inside your filters. One of :ford: better ideas....yep!!!

 

[montreal ponies]

Nice of you to share your findings with us. I guess i'll use the rag option next time.

 

[rb92gt]

FYI: I was underneath my car last weekend, ~250 miles after my DIY oil change. I saw some weeping from the drain plug, which was not replaced during the oil change. It's not enough to actually drip as best as I can tell, but it has convinced me to replace the plug at every oil change going forward.

Mine has been bone dry now 1,500 miles after first oil change, suspect maybe yours was just left over oil that drained before you put the plug back in. Did you dry the area well prior to placing the plug back in? Won't hurt to use a new plug each time, but think it's overkill. Next time inspect the rubber green O-ring just to make sure is seems pliable and has no cracks, should be good to go.

 

[smsgt350]

Here's the conclusions that myself and a couple of machinists have come to in regard to getting the oil out of the filter. The oil thats causing the mess isn't the oil inside the body of the filter...its the oil above the anti-drain back valve. As you can see from the pics I've posted its almost impossible to get the oil out thats causing the mess...that's the oil that's trapped above the orange anti-drain back valve and the block. The only way we thought you could possibly do it would be to run a drill bit through the center of the filter where the oil flows back into the engine...that might relieve the pressure above the anti-drain back valve. BUT in order to do that you have to drill through the center of the filter, the spring plate, and the bottom of the filter element. Not sure its worth all that effort and you would have a mess on your hands and on the drill.

I think the best solution is to do what you suggested and thats to slowly break the seal till oil shows coming down the filter and then tighten it back up a bit to slow the flow of it. If you slow it down enough it might be manageable to get most if not all into the drain pan. I also got one of the mold-able plastic funnels to see if that could be put up at the top around the filter to contain the mess...won't know till next time I change it. And I would continue to stuff rags all around inside the trap door on top of the belly pan...that was my saving grace when I did it. Those rags caught almost all the oil...big mess on top of the belly pan if I didn't do that.

Hope everyone enjoys seeing whats inside your filters. One of :ford: better ideas....yep!!!

Ive changed mine 3 times now and just use a large zip lock bag around the filter each time. Have never spilled a drop.

 

[shelbyman]

Ive changed mine 3 times now and just use a large zip lock bag around the filter each time. Have never spilled a drop.

You know I forgot to mention I used the zip lock plastic bag as well...but must not have got it tight up top to catch the oil. Had to do it kinda blind as I couldn't look in the hole AND get my hand in at the same time...it was that close to my face with only 8" of lift with my race ramps. Just not enough room for me so will use a friends lift next time.

 

[Tomster]

What if you drove an awl through to the center part of the filter containing the oil accumulation? I may have to try that next time.

 

[Tomster]

FYI: I was underneath my car last weekend, ~250 miles after my DIY oil change. I saw some weeping from the drain plug, which was not replaced during the oil change. It's not enough to actually drip as best as I can tell, but it has convinced me to replace the plug at every oil change going forward.

I noticed that too. I plan to do the same.

 

[Tank]

Next time inspect the rubber green O-ring just to make sure is seems pliable and has no cracks, should be good to go.

Kinda hard to tell from the fuzzy diagram on Fordparts.com but it seems this O-ring might have a separate part number.... If the plug and O-ring are about $2.50 each AND IF the O-Ring is available separately, I'm thinking a gross of O-rings might be about $5.00

 

[shelbyman]

What if you drove an awl through to the center part of the filter containing the oil accumulation? I may have to try that next time.

It would be interesting to know if its possible to get the oil out from above the anti-drain back valve. Give it a shot and then post how it worked.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

This may help some of you.

When I change the oil I take the driver side wheel off and begin to unscrew the filter. This way I can see what I'm doing since you can see it from the splash guard area.

 

[johnny1]

I haven't gotten my first oil change yet but stopped by dealership to b.s. the other day. And was mentioning at service that I've read that its real messy changing the oil when you take filter off. Before I could say another word the guy that said he'd be changing it said he intends to take the belly pan off first, that its no big deal and easy to do to keep oil from getting all up under it. That broke me into a big happy smile and really increased my confidence in my dealership.

 

[Norm Peterson]

It would be interesting to know if its possible to get the oil out from above the anti-drain back valve. Give it a shot and then post how it worked.

That's what gently 'cracking' the filter's seal does. Emphasis on gently, so that the leak you're creating is small and the flow through it slow.

If you've punched any holes in the filter's can, most of that oil will have drained leaving the filter's inlet side available for diverting some of the oil above the drainback valve before it even gets out to the filter seal location. Any holes you made toward the outer diameter of the can should start flowing oil again as an indication.


Norm

 

[shelbyman]

This may help some of you.

When I change the oil I take the driver side wheel off and begin to unscrew the filter. This way I can see what I'm doing since you can see it from the splash guard area.

Now this is a brilliant idea...I'll try it next time... :hail::clap2:

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