kairojya
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- Jun 7, 2016
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- Dallas, TX
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- Kyle
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- 17 GT350
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I made a DIY oil change thread when I did the first change on my 2016 car: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58639. Now with the changes mid MY to the 2017+ cars, with the canister style oil filter housing, I figured I'd make an updated thread with my new car.
I found some good info in this thread: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80961
Step 1: Find an awesome place to do the oil change
Step 2: Invite other Shelbys to watch
:lol:
In all seriousness, I planned to install Steeda jack rails, do my first oil change (grabbing pics and info for this thread), and the heatgun was for my stripe delete plans but that didn't happen (yet).
Here's what you need to do the oil change, 10 qts of oil that meets our spec, and a Motorcraft FL-2062 filter. The filter cost my $7.55 from a local dealership (I believe it can be bought at common auto parts stores too). 12 quarts of Motorcraft 5w50 synthetic oil cost me $9.60/qt at the same dealership.
Get the car safely on jack stands!
Remove the oil filter access panel, using a T-30 torx bit.
Here is the new plastic canister style oil filter assembly. I'm going to explain removal below.
You will use a 27mm socket to remove it. It doesn't fit that snug in my experience (I only had a 12pt 27mm socket with me). I tried a 1", 26mm (6pt), 1-1/8", 1-1/6" and they either didn't fit or were just as loose as the 27mm, so I ultimately used the 27mm. I didn't notice any damage to the plastic nut, even after torquing to 24 Nm when reinstalling.
The canister has a lot of tension until you remove it enough that both o-rings are no longer contacting the housing, so you'll need to use your wrench or ratchet & socket to remove it almost all the way. I didn't have any oil start draining out until I was able to easily unscrew the canister by hand. I used tinfoil to wrap around the steering controller wiring harness and guide the oil around it and out the access panel. This worked great! However, once I removed the housing (out the side, shown in the pic above in the wheel well area), the filter element remained attached to the engine side of the oil filter housing, and as such, oil drained from the bottom of it onto the other side of the oil filter access panel area. It poured around both sides of the subframe and into my belly pan :(. Next time I will wrap that side too in tinfoil to keep from having to clean oil out of the pan afterwards.
Here's what it looks like after you remove the filter out of the housing.
Here's the filter
Remove the big o-rings from the plastic canister, install new ones that come with the new filter, then I put the new filter into the canister before reinstalling it into the oil filter housing on the engine. Since the housing was oily anyways, the new o-rings got a nice film of oil on them while installing them. The little o-ring that comes with the new filter, is pinky-finger diameter and I couldn't find a place where it's used in our application. I think it must be used on other applications, but don't take my word for it...
After tightening the housing LIGHTLY, I used a microtorque wrench to tq it to 24 Nm.
After cleaning my mess with the filter, and installing the new filter, I then drained the oil. You can just use the end of a 3/8" drive ratchet (or extension in my case). It comes out in only 1/2~ turn. For my drain pain, I held the plug half in to control the flow of oil coming out (you can see I nearly overflowed my pan in my old thread). Make sure your drain pan can hold 10~ qts of oil! I reused my drain plug, some owners like to replace it each time since it's a cheap $3~ part. I'll probably stock up on a few and use new ones from now on. Wipe inside the opening well and install the plug quickly, or you may have a few drips of oil show up in the new few days after your change from oil that made it past where the o-ring of the plug rests.
I then added 9.5 qts, checked dipstick, it showed near the high mark. I started the car, verified oil pressure and no leaks. Turned the car off after 30~ sec of running. Waited 15~ min, checked dipstick and added another 0.5 qt. After a 20~ min drive and another 15 min wait I checked the dipstick and it showed perfectly full.
I changed my oil at 1300~ miles and haven't noticed any oil consumption up until this point. The oil looked remarkably clean and new, and I did not find any metal shavings or assembly materials like I did during the 2 "first" oil changes on the engines I had in my 2016 car. I find it odd ... maybe they do a new procedure on the engines where they run them on the bench or in the car, and drain and refill???
:cheers:
I found some good info in this thread: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80961
Step 1: Find an awesome place to do the oil change
Step 2: Invite other Shelbys to watch
:lol:
In all seriousness, I planned to install Steeda jack rails, do my first oil change (grabbing pics and info for this thread), and the heatgun was for my stripe delete plans but that didn't happen (yet).
Here's what you need to do the oil change, 10 qts of oil that meets our spec, and a Motorcraft FL-2062 filter. The filter cost my $7.55 from a local dealership (I believe it can be bought at common auto parts stores too). 12 quarts of Motorcraft 5w50 synthetic oil cost me $9.60/qt at the same dealership.
Get the car safely on jack stands!
Remove the oil filter access panel, using a T-30 torx bit.
Here is the new plastic canister style oil filter assembly. I'm going to explain removal below.
You will use a 27mm socket to remove it. It doesn't fit that snug in my experience (I only had a 12pt 27mm socket with me). I tried a 1", 26mm (6pt), 1-1/8", 1-1/6" and they either didn't fit or were just as loose as the 27mm, so I ultimately used the 27mm. I didn't notice any damage to the plastic nut, even after torquing to 24 Nm when reinstalling.
The canister has a lot of tension until you remove it enough that both o-rings are no longer contacting the housing, so you'll need to use your wrench or ratchet & socket to remove it almost all the way. I didn't have any oil start draining out until I was able to easily unscrew the canister by hand. I used tinfoil to wrap around the steering controller wiring harness and guide the oil around it and out the access panel. This worked great! However, once I removed the housing (out the side, shown in the pic above in the wheel well area), the filter element remained attached to the engine side of the oil filter housing, and as such, oil drained from the bottom of it onto the other side of the oil filter access panel area. It poured around both sides of the subframe and into my belly pan :(. Next time I will wrap that side too in tinfoil to keep from having to clean oil out of the pan afterwards.
Here's what it looks like after you remove the filter out of the housing.
Here's the filter
Remove the big o-rings from the plastic canister, install new ones that come with the new filter, then I put the new filter into the canister before reinstalling it into the oil filter housing on the engine. Since the housing was oily anyways, the new o-rings got a nice film of oil on them while installing them. The little o-ring that comes with the new filter, is pinky-finger diameter and I couldn't find a place where it's used in our application. I think it must be used on other applications, but don't take my word for it...
After tightening the housing LIGHTLY, I used a microtorque wrench to tq it to 24 Nm.
After cleaning my mess with the filter, and installing the new filter, I then drained the oil. You can just use the end of a 3/8" drive ratchet (or extension in my case). It comes out in only 1/2~ turn. For my drain pain, I held the plug half in to control the flow of oil coming out (you can see I nearly overflowed my pan in my old thread). Make sure your drain pan can hold 10~ qts of oil! I reused my drain plug, some owners like to replace it each time since it's a cheap $3~ part. I'll probably stock up on a few and use new ones from now on. Wipe inside the opening well and install the plug quickly, or you may have a few drips of oil show up in the new few days after your change from oil that made it past where the o-ring of the plug rests.
I then added 9.5 qts, checked dipstick, it showed near the high mark. I started the car, verified oil pressure and no leaks. Turned the car off after 30~ sec of running. Waited 15~ min, checked dipstick and added another 0.5 qt. After a 20~ min drive and another 15 min wait I checked the dipstick and it showed perfectly full.
I changed my oil at 1300~ miles and haven't noticed any oil consumption up until this point. The oil looked remarkably clean and new, and I did not find any metal shavings or assembly materials like I did during the 2 "first" oil changes on the engines I had in my 2016 car. I find it odd ... maybe they do a new procedure on the engines where they run them on the bench or in the car, and drain and refill???
:cheers:
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but since my plane is at the shop getting few upgrades we are using it as a shelby Mod Shop....;)
