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Are suspension upgrades very noticeable?

tom_sprecher

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I daily drive my 2016 PP GT. I bought this car for exactly what you stated.

I am taking it one step at a time....instead of how I usually do things, and go all in at once.

Goals for my daily driver are, remove atleast 250lbs without sacrficing looks and ride comfort and OE appearance, and install "just enough" suspension pieces to suite my needs. Needs such as, comfortable daily driver with minimal NVH, the ability to take the car to The FIRM in North Florida and go 1.25 lap times on street tires, and then go South to Sebring and run <2.30 lap times - oh, and then go to the drag strip and go 11's with only a tune, and maybe air intake and axle back. ;)

So that said, my very first mod was our CB005. This made a really nice difference....especially with corner exit at The FIRM. On regular street tires, I was able to really put more efficient power down on corner exits my last outing - quite surprising actually. I also have better straight line accel on the street, and have an insane amount more feel to the road surface, which helps with my confidence.

My next and 2nd modification was our new Upper Camber Links. I did these primarily for testing purposes...and did not really expect much of any improvement. I cannot really tell I have them on the car...but atleast I saved like 4lbs - I will take it.

Now, onto the next round. I am working with another company on some suspension parts, which will include a very unique package of components. Sway bars front and rear, and most of the rubber bushings on the front AND rear IRS will be replaced with a combination of elastomer and PolyElast bushing technology.

Thus far with over two years of experience with Performance Pack GTs - I can confidently state that, the best suspension changes IN MY OPINION on an other wise stock PP car are, in order, as follows:

CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
BK055 LCA Bearing Upgrade
TCA045 Vertical Links (for handling)
TR005 Toe Links (I cannot stand the OE links!)
Ford Performance Knuckle-Toe Bearing Kit

Past that point, the roll stiffness and damping:

Linear Springs
Dampers
Sway Bars

I have this order because, I highly recommend removing rubber FIRST...so you get a true feel of the suspension. Roll stiffness, over/understeer and overall balance will change once removing the chassis slop.

Lastly, sway bars being last - and this is because I recommend using sway bars as a final step to tuning the balance of the car. You simply do not know where you want the car to be until you perform the other modifications that impact how you want the bars set. Bushings, Wheels, Tires, Weight distribution, driving style etc.

Good Luck!
I had bookmarked a thread where you answered a similar question and was hoping you would again here.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55542&highlight=mods

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Since then I have had the parts listed above in my cart at several vendor sites waiting for the best deals either Bad Friday or at Christmas. You all should offer a package that does not include springs and dampers.
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BMR Tech

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Yes, I have somewhat moved the list around just a touch - from outside factors, to make it based on a culmination of everything included. Things such as installation difficulty, and parts paired together and ease of install as kits, etc.

We always offer packaged discounts. The issue with offering specific packages is, we simply have too many options for each component.

I prefer to operate like a boutique - instead of a one-size fits all.

Thanks, and keep an eye out on our upcoming sales! They're gunne be yuuuuuge! ;)
 
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clevernickname

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Wow thanks for all the replies. Learning a lot. I should also mention that, as the cheap douche I was, I DID NOT spring for the PP. it was also $3700 in canada, $2500 would be a much better steal. But, any different recommendations since I'm a base GT?
 

Rebellion

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Wow thanks for all the replies. Learning a lot. I should also mention that, as the cheap douche I was, I DID NOT spring for the PP. it was also $3700 in canada, $2500 would be a much better steal. But, any different recommendations since I'm a base GT?
I'm a cheap guy too...:cheers: and got the base GT.

In an extremely tight budget, you can get the PP dampers (300+), BMR SP082/089 for minimal drop/rake (or SP081/082 for more drop/rake, 200+), CB005 (199), and Ford Racing strut/cowl brace (150+)...got a setup for about 850 USD. You'll get a setup better than PP and eeeasy to install, this was recommended by [MENTION=10281]BmacIL[/MENTION]...credit goes to him.

Personally, I would add the J&M jacking rails just for safety, vert links, and CB006/007 and be done with it. Basically it's what I did, but with stiffer spring/dampers.
 

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Mustang_Lou

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[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] - your post #12 is exactly how I feel ... I can't seem to find a dealer up here in Canada (near Toronto preferably) to get the CB005 from ... got one or 2 you can share?
 

OZDAZ5.0

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I've only done Steeda progressive's and am really happy with the improved ride. The ride is slightly firmer but a lot better planted. It's very livable as a DD and cost bigger all.
 

wildcatgoal

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For a street car with no future on a road course (at least seriously), I'd go with the Ford Performance Track Package as-is (toe arms are the same so skip installing those) or, more preferably, I would put together a Steeda package with their non-adjustable shocks, sport linear (if you prefer firmer) or progressive (if you prefer softer) springs, and at least upgrade the rear sway bar (someone makes a solid bar out there with which you can still use the OEM bushings - a great dollar-for-dollar value but aftermarket bars aren't that expensive - I like the Steeda bars). I'd leave the IRS well-enough alone unless you feel it still feels disconnected. BMR Performance springs are excellent matches for PP shocks if you want to avoid damper replacement (as are Steeda Progressives, but I'm not a progressive spring fan, personally). I know buttoning up the IRS makes a big difference but it also can let additional/new noises through the suspension, depending on what you do (despite everyone saying "no new NVH" so that's why I personally suggest leaving it alone). My suspension (see signature) is wonderful and I can "turn it down" to be comfortable and plush or turn it up and make the thing a stiff for AutoX/road course. But that requires going under the car and heave-hoing bolts and twisting adjusters when the time comes. Something most folks have no interest in doing - or don't understand what to do, when (not that I'm an expert on it, but you have to be the "tinkering type" to tolerate the effort).
 

BmacIL

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[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] - your post #12 is exactly how I feel ... I can't seem to find a dealer up here in Canada (near Toronto preferably) to get the CB005 from ... got one or 2 you can share?
Order direct from www.bmrsuspension.com or from Lethal Performance.
 

Bluemustang

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I agree with [MENTION=21494]wildcatgoal[/MENTION].

If you stiffen up with the rear, you may introduce noise that wasn't there before. I've had to work with my shop a few times to get rid of various noises. I have gotten rid of all the noises in the rear. The only thing I have is a slight noise in the front when going over big humps/ speed bumps that kind of thing. But from what I've read- a certain amount of this is acceptable and is present on many cars from the factory.

If you want to keep NVH at a minimum with better handling, just get the FRPP track package.
 

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wildcatgoal

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You can ship whatever to me and I'll "resend" it to you in Canada at your expense, if that makes financial sense (and is legal...). I have no idea...
 

BmacIL

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Already tried pricing it and shipping, duties, brokerage, and exchange means it's around $320 CAD as I recall ...
Ship it to a friend in Buffalo and drive over and pick it up! :lol:
 

Texatl

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I would put together a Steeda package with their non-adjustable shocks, sport linear (if you prefer firmer) or progressive (if you prefer softer) springs, and at least upgrade the rear sway bar (someone makes a solid bar out there with which you can still use the OEM bushings - a great dollar-for-dollar value but aftermarket bars aren't that expensive - I like the Steeda bars). I'd leave the IRS well-enough alone unless you feel it still feels disconnected.
+1,000. And go with Steeda progressive springs FTW!
 
 








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