Suspension Upgrades Suggestion

[omiga]

I need to upgrade my suspension, and after an extended reading, I decided to get Bilstein shocks and struts with Steeda minimum-drop linear springs. I'm a daily driver with a 2020 convertible GT that never gets onto the track, so I prefer to minimize the drop, as we have horrible streets in South California.

What else do you guys recommend I do in addition to upgrading these pars? Should I upgrade the sway bars as well? Do I need camber plating, or is it completely unnecessary? What about getting a Ford performance pack shock, struts along the sway bar, and combining it with Steeda minimum drop?

In addition, I found that it would be more expensive if I ordered valved shocks and spring packs from Steeda. Can anyone guide me if that is extra worth it, or will the shop that will do the suspension spring also do the valving?

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[GrabberBargeCaptain]

This has been covered a zillion times, but don't bother changing suspension components without also addressing the IRS. Do the FP toe link bearing too, and the FP front control arms while you're at it.

I did the springs/shocks/sways and then a few thousand miles later I did the IRS mods too as upgrading the suspension only makes the IRS feel worse especially if you add stickier tires. You might as well do the camber plates since you'll have it all apart anyways right?

I would do the sway bars, yes, as these cars are kind of pigs (convertibles even more so) and it gives them some immediacy and directness in the steering. I'm not a huge Bilstein fan in general but people seem to like them for this platform, i have the FP struts/track springs.. i dont think you can go wrong with either choice, and IMO your choice of a mild lowering spring is ideal.

 

[S550HPP]

OP everything you are contemplating is a downgrade for the horrible streets you daily on unless you don't mind to be trashed around in the car.

What's wrong with the car now and what's tire size are you running?

I am also on horrible roads and I will soon swap my B6 for Koni Active. On 255-40-19 tires.

Eibach front sway, OE Ford chassis bracing, and 20- 23lb rotary forged or fully forges wheels would be an upgrade.

 

[omiga]

This has been covered a zillion times, but don't bother changing suspension components without also addressing the IRS. Do the FP toe link bearing too, and the FP front control arms while you're at it.

I did the springs/shocks/sways and then a few thousand miles later I did the IRS mods too as upgrading the suspension only makes the IRS feel worse especially if you add stickier tires. You might as well do the camber plates since you'll have it all apart anyways right?

I would do the sway bars, yes, as these cars are kind of pigs (convertibles even more so) and it gives them some immediacy and directness in the steering. I'm not a huge Bilstein fan in general but people seem to like them for this platform, i have the FP struts/track springs.. i dont think you can go wrong with either choice, and IMO your choice of a mild lowering spring is ideal.

Thanks for your time and notes. It has been answered, but each time I look into it, I see many nuances that change over time as well. However, if you have a final direct message recently addressed to all of these, I would be grateful if you could direct me there.

It can be precious if someone lists final thoughts on these issues every 6 months or a year.

Back to your comments, doesn't the convertible not need that stop-the-hop kit? I remember that at some point, I read that they have reinforcements on the bottom.

In addition, while I don't have the Brembo brakes, why should I change to an FP control arm? I wanted to change them simultaneously, but only with a new pair, not an FP pack.

I can do camber plating, but the question is if it's of any use at all. Remember, I'll never use it on the track, so the only reason for upgrading to camber plating is if it has any advantage for driving the car daily.

But from your notes, I think I should get the FP shock/strut pack with sway bars, control arms, and springs from Steeda. Is there anything I'm missing? What about rear shock-reinforced mounts?

 

[omiga]

OP everything you are contemplating is a downgrade for the horrible streets you daily on unless you don't mind to be trashed around in the car.

What's wrong with the car now and what's tire size are you running?

I am also on horrible roads and I will soon swap my B6 for Koni Active. On 255-40-19 tires.

Eibach front sway, OE Ford chassis bracing, and 20- 23lb rotary forged or fully forges wheels would be an upgrade.

The biggest issue I have right now with it that makes me panic is hearing a knocking sound whenever I turn the wheel to 90 degrees or so. I brought the car to the dealer, and they commented that they couldn't identify any issue with it, but the technician told me that he would change the suspension ASAP.

Why do you think that I'm downgrading? I'm getting better shocks and struts (the stock ones right now) and better spring to get feedback from the road while losing 0.5 inches.

My tires are factory stock for 18" wheels. I don't think my tires are making the knocking sound; people here say it's from the control arm, and the technician guessed it is suspension.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

Thanks for your time and notes. It has been answered, but each time I look into it, I see many nuances that change over time as well. However, if you have a final direct message recently addressed to all of these, I would be grateful if you could direct me there.

It can be precious if someone lists final thoughts on these issues every 6 months or a year.

Back to your comments, doesn't the convertible not need that stop-the-hop kit? I remember that at some point, I read that they have reinforcements on the bottom.

In addition, while I don't have the Brembo brakes, why should I change to an FP control arm? I wanted to change them simultaneously, but only with a new pair, not an FP pack.

I can do camber plating, but the question is if it's of any use at all. Remember, I'll never use it on the track, so the only reason for upgrading to camber plating is if it has any advantage for driving the car daily.

But from your notes, I think I should get the FP shock/strut pack with sway bars, control arms, and springs from Steeda. Is there anything I'm missing? What about rear shock-reinforced mounts?

If you have the PP then no need for the control arms.
And you definitely want to add the stop the hop kit or equivalent.

 

[S550HPP]

The biggest issue I have right now with it that makes me panic is hearing a knocking sound whenever I turn the wheel to 90 degrees or so. I brought the car to the dealer, and they commented that they couldn't identify any issue with it, but the technician told me that he would change the suspension ASAP.

Why do you think that I'm downgrading? I'm getting better shocks and struts (the stock ones right now) and better spring to get feedback from the road while losing 0.5 inches.

My tires are factory stock for 18" wheels. I don't think my tires are making the knocking sound; people here say it's from the control arm, and the technician guessed it is suspension.

How many miles? What's your desired outcome? Front control arms are know to wear out fast and would knock.

Personally, since I only do Twisties at speed maybe 3% of time the rough trashed city ride is not worth it. I'd rather go slower and have more fun with body lean drama. B6 was a total waste of money for me though if all I did was highway id keep them....or maybe they wore out after 20K miles....

Better shock and strut is subjective. If rougher ride to win marginal handling gains on daily with 18s make sense then it's better for you. If you have experienced wheel hop on hard acceleration select different drive mode or get stop hop kit.

If you have 100K mile car and no budget limits just buy everything steeda has to offer with pre built suspension, control arms, stop hop otherwise if counting dollars midwaymustang will sell you low milage takeoffs for 80% less.

 

[omiga]

If you have the PP then no need for the control arms.
And you definitely want to add the stop the hop kit or equivalent.

No, I don't have the PP pack. All stock from the factory...

 

[omiga]

How many miles? What's your desired outcome? Front control arms are know to wear out fast and would knock.

Personally, since I only do Twisties at speed maybe 3% of time the rough trashed city ride is not worth it. I'd rather go slower and have more fun with body lean drama. B6 was a total waste of money for me though if all I did was highway id keep them....or maybe they wore out after 20K miles....

Better shock and strut is subjective. If rougher ride to win marginal handling gains on daily with 18s make sense then it's better for you. If you have experienced wheel hop on hard acceleration select different drive mode or get stop hop kit.

If you have 100K mile car and no budget limits just buy everything steeda has to offer with pre built suspension, control arms, stop hop otherwise if counting dollars midwaymustang will sell you low milage takeoffs for 80% less.

I have something like 48k on it. Well, when I need to get into and out of the parking lot, that knocking sound happens. The technician told me I should expect this car's suspension to change every 40k or so!

To my understanding, the technician commented that I should change all shocks and struts, leaving me with the question of what I should get. However, to your comment, it seems that you're not happy with your B6.

 

[S550HPP]

At 48K it's most likely just the control arms. Had to do mine at 45 because streets are so bad and I don't slow down for speed bumps.

B6 are amazing on highway and crap on trashed city streets.

 

[omiga]

At 48K it's most likely just the control arms. Had to do mine at 45 because streets are so bad and I don't slow down for speed bumps.

B6 are amazing on highway and crap on trashed city streets.

Do you recommend that I go with Ford PP shocks and struts? I want to upgrade them from stock, but I thought B6 was the answer. I sometimes get into the highway during weekends, but most of the time, I'm on crappy streets...

If that's the case, I think I need these:

Track strut and shock kit (M-18000-F)
Track sway bar kit (M-5490-G)
PP rear toe link kit (M-5972-M)
Knuckle-to-toe link bearing assembly (M-5A460-M)
Track sway bar bushing kit (M-5490-BKD)
Steeda Minimum Drop Spring (555-8223)
Eibach front/read bump stops
PP front control arm kit (M-3075-F): I don't know if these are more beneficial than the deflector that I can't use.

 

[larr12]

Hey buddy

I went with Steeda and couldnt be happier. Quality parts and customer service from @tj@steeda and the team is excellent.

I went with Steeda Pro-Active Shocks/struts, Minimum Springs, Alignment Kit, IRS Bushing, Subframe Braces, Rear Shock Mounts, Vertical Links.

You want to address the IRS first. Then the struts/springs. If you can do it all at once, great. No need to use camber plates for the minimum springs but I installed J&M because why not.

I live in PR so the streets here are worse than in NY but I have zero complaints running that setup.

Shoot TJ a dm and he will come with a setup for your needs.

 

[kz]

The biggest issue I have right now with it that makes me panic is hearing a knocking sound whenever I turn the wheel to 90 degrees or so. I brought the car to the dealer, and they commented that they couldn't identify any issue with it, but the technician told me that he would change the suspension ASAP.

Why do you think that I'm downgrading? I'm getting better shocks and struts (the stock ones right now) and better spring to get feedback from the road while losing 0.5 inches.

My tires are factory stock for 18" wheels. I don't think my tires are making the knocking sound; people here say it's from the control arm, and the technician guessed it is suspension.

There are multiple issues with your plans.

Doesn't bother you that technician couldn't find the source of the knock but said "change suspension" ? If knocking is an issue, then replace with the stock parts but better yet have someone look at the control arm bushings, make sure sway bar links are tight (as that's what typically gets loose).

"Better" is highly subjective for suspension components - is 1000 in/lb spring even more better than whatever rate Steeda's minimum drop are ?

Aftermarket dampers will generally give you better controlled ride but just about any mod you are considering will make the ride on terrible streets worse.

A lot of people on this forum mod to mod (literally - "I just bought new car, what mods should I do ? "). Question that anyone should ask is what they want to achieve.
If you want to fix suspension knocking, find the source of it, because switching dampers and springs may not fix it at all.

 

[Mach VII]

Add BMR CB005 lockout kit and Steeda alignment dowels to the B6/Steeda minimum drop springs. Mine rides well even on crappy New England roads...

Get something other than the stock 18" setup too, meaty tires are part of the equation too.

 

[WItoTX]

There are multiple issues with your plans.

Doesn't bother you that technician couldn't find the source of the knock but said "change suspension" ? If knocking is an issue, then replace with the stock parts but better yet have someone look at the control arm bushings, make sure sway bar links are tight (as that's what typically gets loose).

"Better" is highly subjective for suspension components - is 1000 in/lb spring even more better than whatever rate Steeda's minimum drop are ?

Aftermarket dampers will generally give you better controlled ride but just about any mod you are considering will make the ride on terrible streets worse.

A lot of people on this forum mod to mod (literally - "I just bought new car, what mods should I do ? "). Question that anyone should ask is what they want to achieve.
If you want to fix suspension knocking, find the source of it, because switching dampers and springs may not fix it at all.

OP, this ^^^^ is solid advice. Don't throw parts at it just to throw parts at it.

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